https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=288700

for your wiring pleasure

 

the "cells" are meaningless at idle. there is no load on the engine, and you aren't seeing what the tracer would do when in third gear. your values will be slightly different in 4th compared to third, or 5th compared to 4th. that's why dyno pulls are done in 3rd or 4th gear, not 1st or 2nd.

the rows are "up to" the value stated, so that's why your mivec is in the 4000 row.

you need to do a ton of research before I would recommend playing with the values. any map you go to should be closer to stock than RRM's. RRM provides a base tune, and you need to have it tuned to your specific vehicle to maximize your results. to do that you need a wideband o2 sensor, or a trip to an eddy current dyno.

research. If you aren't careful you can really hurt your engine, or even destroy it, when messing with the fuel system. the closer to 10's the better, until you get a wideband. RRM's tunes have shown to be lean on some cars, there are many factors involved in tuning a car and they are in SoCal. If that doesn't mean anything to you, then you haven't done enough research yet. If you don't know what an eddy current dyno is, make sure you research that before you pay someone to tune your car.

 

ok....i am new to tuning and have just purchased the piggy back for 89 octane from another member on here and also an aem wideband uego controller afr gauge http://www.strippermotorsports.com/a...FQlQWAodIDIvTA

bewtween these 2 items i should be able to properly view my afr vs rpm and adjust my map accordingly with the piggy back at each rpm......correct????

trying hard to soak it all up (and look b4 i ask) and ask the right questions

 

u can, but prolly better to get a wide band,
so u can see things like EGT so u know if something is up

 

keep reading, but you are on the right track. once you get the wideband and piggy installed you will understand a little better, and I will be able to help you a little more. keep researching until then, the software and how to utilize the wideband with the piggyback should be your next line of research.

 

well thought i might as well ask here, but its prolly a stupid nub question but n e way

is it different from auto to manual(i have auto)

also i only do one tune and it applies to all gears correct?

TIA

 

I am not sure what is different on the piggyback, but the manual and auto have different brains(ecu) one tune will apply to all gears.

 

i was talking to the guys at rrm today because i wanted to buy some parts. so far i have a catback, cai, pulley and going to put the piggyback back on. the piggyback of course comes pre-tuned for the basic mods which i have. my question was if i add the headers/dp and the im, would i need to get it retuned? to my surprise they said no and that it will "learn" by itself. is this right?

 

I don't know about "learn", but it does come pre-tuned for basic mods like that.

 

I can't see this as the piggyback does not have capability to "learn", the ecu has this capability, but when you place a piggyback in the picture you are basically getting rid of the ecu's ability to learn and replacing it with your own designed set of signals so you can manipulate the numbers.

Now you won't have to have your piggyback retuned w/ those mods as they will not affect the A/F ratio enough to change anything dramatically, however, you will not get the full potential out of the mods if you do not tune it.

I could be completely wrong with what I have said, but from what I know of the ecu's learning, and the manipulation method of a piggyback I believe I am correct. Please correct me if I am wrong (which I'm sure DangerousDan will do).

 

The piggy doesn't interfere with the ECU's learning.

 

what's the temperature difference between baltimore and RRM's hometown in socal? any time you have a temperature difference greater than a few degrees with a modified engine the OEM IAT fuel trims will be off.

everything in the ECU is preprogrammed. the sensors tell it what is coming in, the ECU relates what the sensors are telling it to a lookup map (potentially many maps) and does what it's programmed to do. no matter what changes, those maps stay the same. values that affect these maps, such as fuel trims from o2 sensors, change the whole equation not a cell in the map. this is why there is no need for a safe mode like every always claims is robbing their power; the ecu will function without certain sensors because there are default values. yeah, you have broken mode because the ECU can't function without certain sensors, but not safe mode.

with this little bit of information, what do you think the ECU is going to do when you change all kinds of restrictive parts to free flowing parts? the values from the sensors will change, and they should, but the lookup maps the ECU is referring to(which were designed around a completely stock engine, btw) have not changed. you may get the engine to trim in some fuel in closed loop operation, but you won't get any adjustment outside of a higher figure from the MAF sensor for open loop.

so, without getting into detail yes you will need to retune after modifying your engine, especially when changing your airflow. I can't believe RRM would tell you that headers, downpipe, and port and polished intake manifold would not require a retune, and can only guess that you didn't talk to Rob but rather one of his lackeys. I would suggest to anyone on the boards that if you call RRM that you speak to Rob or one of the other top people (I don't know anyone but Rob, because that's who I talk to) and nobody else. there has been too much misinformation coming from them lately, at least according to the people posting here.

 

^^^^ that's what I was saying ... lol

 

yeah, I just worded it different

 

Remember the stock ECU still has some abilty to adjust so adding most mods other than pistons will be adjsuted for. You will be fine with the tune we give you really even if you add a cam.

ROAD/RACE