Yes. RA was his baby and he knew more about them than anyone to date! RIP GABE.

ROAD/RACE

 

I know we can't post up the base map from RRM on the forums, but can anybody send it over to me? I just went from V.2 to V.1 because of eventually going turbo, and the turbo piggyback obviously does not have the base map on it. My V.2 is already gone, otherwise id take it off of there.

I know it was said that all 10's on the map is "stock", but is that "stock" like what it came with tuned from RRM? or stock like with no piggyback? Little confused...

Thanks For the help guys.

I have an 02 OZ.

 

THey are very different maps. I am not sure you know what you are even asking for. Are you boosting already or just want N/A map for V!?

ROAD/RACE

 

Ya I am a bit confused, I do need the n/a v1 map for a base lancer(I have a 5spd oz), as I will not be installing the turbo for a few months down the line. So the v1 and tv v2 n/a maps are different from each other? I know the new v reads voltage and v1 reads boost presure, so there has to be some differnces, no?

Sorry about posting this in the RA section, I was just searching up piggyback maps and this was the most helpful thread. Didn't realize it until it was too late.

 

Ok, All value at 10 means no modification to the stock setting on the car. All values under 10 say 9.5 is a leaner condition to that value.

 

Ok so I'm in the process of tuning and I had some ?'s

My peak afr is 16.7 @ 3667rpm, my voltage from the MAF is 3.0 @3670

on the map im running


So in order to get my afr down towards the 13's I need to change the 9.6 to a higher number to add more fuel correct?

I'm confused because from previous posts numbers below ten add less fuel than stock, and greater than 10 add fuel, stock afr is 14.7, meaning 14.7 parts of air per 1 part of fuel. so to go from 14.7 to 13.3 you need less air or more fuel, yet post #189 in this thread seems to indicate that you need to lean the engine out or add more air?!?!?!

from what i've read here,
lower number=less fuel,
less fuel=higher afr,
higher afr= not what you want, you want lower afr (from 14.7-13.3ish)

so why would the base map come with a bunch of numbers in the 9's and not above 10 to add more fuel??

 

bump, some answers would be nice

 

base map leans out the car. if you search you will find that quite a few users had lean afr issues with the base map.

yes you need to go closer to or over 10 in order to lower your AFR#.

moar reading is moar better.

 

Also, your target AFR @ WOT needs to be around 13.1-13.2, not 14.7. You shouldn't be seeing 14.7 unless you're at less than 80% throttle and the piggy isn't being used.

 

i know that otter, I just wasnt sure if I was supposed to go over 10 to get the 13.2ish if the base map's values are all under 10

 

so I'm gonna go ahead and bump this back,

tonight I did the first decent amount of tuning on my piggy, in that I got it out of the mid to high 15 afr's that came on the RRM base map (not bashing, just that it doesnt fit my climate well) and almost completely under 14.7

here is the latest map I'm running (this is one I made myself and therefore not giving away any companies maps)
http://www.geocities.com/xaznxrebl808/6-30_4thmap.jpg

and here is the pull I logged with it
http://www.geocities.com/xaznxrebl808/6-304th.txt

 

old post now, but I received a PM from someone(who didn't read the first post good enough) so I guess I'll chime in now.

if you are tuning yourself you should make a run with all 10's first. this will show you the parts of your factory map that need help. start by adjusting the worst part of that graph and then run again to see the changes. You will notice that the changes on the low end sometimes affect the high end, so be mindful of the degree of change you think is required to fix something and how it might affect the rest of the map.

One thing to remember is that you are tuning very complex logic with a basic tool. large corrections tend to cause errors, so take your time and be selective about what your goals are. once you think you will be on target with your adjustments, make a few pulls in at least 3rd and 4th gears and see how things look again.

To the guy who PM'ed me, if they merely threw the linked map would hardly be an "ideal" map for your particular car, and the shop should have been able to make further adjustments on a dyno.

there is much more to this than having a shop tune your AFR curve to near ideal. you'll need a little more than a CAI and muffler before you'll be able to tell the difference between a factory map and a shop tuned piggyback without using numbers, or preferably graphs. if it's tuned properly the best you can hope for is maximum possible power for what you have installed sorry

 

I hate to sound like a broken record. I've been over this many times. 2 words for you. Fuel Trim. You need your fuel trims to be consistant at 0-5%. If you don't then achieving any AFR is pointless as the ECU will end up trimming it back to where it wants.

-Michael

 

you can't consistently adjust fuel under all conditions with this unit, it's not designed to do that. and since we're tuning only for WOT with the split second unit that's a moot point anyway, isn't it?

unless you have some positive insight into tuning this unit for it's intended purpose...

 

Dan knows his stuff. He has been all through this stuff and has done a great job educating folks.

ROAD/RACE