Ok, went out to install the EGR and felt bad for the beer I found trapped in the cans. I had to let them out so I didnt get around to the EGR but I did get a bunch of mulch thrown around the yard. One bucket of mulch~1yd^3 from a backhoe surely made my s10 squat! hehehe. (conteplating a v8 in my s10 btw, bought a book from http://www.v8s10.com/ 400hp MMmmmmj) Went out and listened to the pheasant clucking in the farm and watched the cows... not my farm... just border the property line. started a fire and burnt sticks/yardwaste.... ok then...

Back on topic... I dont think the ECU "sees" resistance, its just pulsing the motor. I would bet that it will keep pulsing until it gets feedback from the o2 or something to tell it that it's correct... either that, or it's based on a lookup table, and opens a specified amount based on temp/rpm/etc.

My experience with stepper motors is such that each coil is pulsed sequentially, never two at a time. I would only believe this would increase torque to the miniture motor if it's in phase, otherwise, like any electric motor, the feild will be out of phase and fight one another. I'm certain this isnt the case here.

Going to make nachos... kb8spq 73's clear on your final.

 

heheh Drew you should buy some paint ball guns and practice with them cows heheh
I used to do that with cats what a freak ahh anyway thanks for the help and keep us updated if you have any progress.

 

some are pulsed two at a time, it depends on the number of poles available. there seem to be four, which leads me to believe it will pulse one, then two, then one, then two. this increases the resolution, also more poles can be added to help increase the resolution making for a very precise motor. since they are pulsing they wouldn't be fighting each other, when the current is applied in a pulse it will pull the motor to it's new spot and stop, regardless of how much current is applied to either coil as long as the current is equal between them.

I don't know how the ECU determines if the valve is open or not, I would imagine it's on a lookup table since there is nothing else in the description of the EGR system.

The ECU is obviously not seeing resistance, it is charging a coil. The coil is providing the resistance and the ECU expects to see a drop in current from one side of the valve to the other. that's why I say you can use resistors in a circuit such as this because that's all this motor is, a couple of wound coils in a motor. the only thing that you need to trick the ecu (from the motor's standpoint, we still don't know how much the ECU monitors this system) into thinking is that it is still able to charge those coils and move the motor.

 

I agree with some of that statement. The coils HAVE to be pulsed in order, and two cant be pulsed at the same time out of phase. I know this from experience. The ecu is not charging a coil, it's driving the base of a NPN transistor past the BIAS point. I'll stop nit-picking. I'm sure it's a simple sequential motor. Off to work I go.

 

yeah, I agree. The whole point is that the transistor is not in the valve, it's in the ECU. no matter how many transistors, diodes, capacitors, etc are attached to the circuit the only part of the circuit we are modifying creates a light resistance when charged, and nothing else.

 

The coil is an inductor, so there is resistance and inductance, sometimes called reluctance. Ah sheet, there I go again! I guess technically this is resistance too, magnetic resistance.

Good point tho Dan, it all boils down to the output circuitry.

I have a stepper motor controller (if I can find it). I might try to attach it to the valve, or just pulse the pins manually for the hell of it. It would be interesting either way.

Good luck on starting your turbo project this weekend. I'll be following the other thread!

 

you can pulse them manually, although you already took out the drive

so you are saying the voltage drop will be greater than that of just a resistor due to the fact that the coil is doing work (creating a magnetic field that moves a magnet attached to the drive) and this is what the ecu is expecting to see? if that's the case we can monitor the voltage drop between pin 2 and 1 or 3 and pin 5 and 4 or 6 to determine what resistor will produce correct values for the ecu right? this can't be any more complicated than that because the circuitry we are trying to imitate is very simple. some wire spun around a magnet and electrically charged only has so many values to consider in an equation

 

yeah, I am pretty excited about starting this turbo kit. I think it's going on in stages at this point though. I can't get enough help to tackle this as a whole project, I need to be confident that everything will bolt on in a day so I can spend time tuning. the only way to do that is to pre-fab everything over a few days and when it all bolts right up take a day to put it on and two days to tune it.

 

I am looking to see your hp levels Dan , also I think the best way to accompplish is for someone to test out if the CEL light comes on after removing the piece Drew suggested

 

yeah, block it up. that's by far the easiest way to accomplish this. I am not confident on the CEL though.

HP shouldn't be huge, may not even know for a while. I don't have ANY discretionary money unless my raise comes through like it's supposed too so no dyno time planned yet.

 

I did the modification we discussed.. What I did is unbolted my egr valve and set it on the valvecover with the control wires attached. I then bolted the normally closed valvebody on the egr bung. It seemed that the motor housing got really hot really fast. I'm not sure if that's normal, but I cant explain it. I really dont think it was from sitting on the valve cover because the engine wasnt that hot yet.
I let the car get up to operating temperature. Hit the throttle by hand, and watch the needle in my valvebody move very slightly. It was trying to make a slight adjustment.

I drove down and around the country road a bit, doing about 35-40. Everythings cool. I opened throttle and it was responsive as ever.

I came back home, about 35 down my street, pulled in and let it idle. The RPMs were consistantly smooth and I experienced abosultely no problems at all. No CEL.

I put my EGR valve back on and called it a day.

Sidenote: I do have the RRM short ram intake that causes a CEL. I dont have it installed right now. But the point is that it takes a couple of days for the CEL to illuminate. Maybe that would be the case here too?

 

yes, before I read the sidenote that's exactly what I was going to say. man it's really hard typing and spelling words correctly when you are drinking. it took me like fifty tries to type this

 

it takes about 50 miles minimum for the ecu to understand a condition as a constant rather than sporadic.

man, I am really proud of myself, I just hope it's spelled right

 

happy friday, btw

 

SO its nice to hear this then. I believe that once you floor the gas pedal if something is out of place it will take the ECU no time to identify it. Beers everyone its friday hehehe
Drew you tha man ... I mean who else could've done all that just for us ,,,, heheh thanks BTW