Need advice on Custom Camshaft

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Feb 8, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #136  
Quote: I'd be interested in hearing or seeing a schmexy idle clip or a walk around from engine bay to tailpipe!
No clip but I can say that my car idles somewhat lopey (like an old Ford truck).
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Feb 9, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #137  
Quote: Sorry i said it wrong, i meant if it was .008 or .006 in intake
And how much in exhaust
If I remember it was .020 intake and .030 on the exhaust I willhave to look it up and it has to be done on a hot motor, thats the crappy part.

I have the Mitsu manual polus any Mitsu dealer can look it up...I am assuming you are talking valve lash gap?

Edit:

VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT
M1111001500391
1.Before checks, check that the engine oil, starter and battery are normal. Also, set the vehicle in the following condition:
•Engine coolant temperature: 80 − 95°C (176 − 203°F)
•Lights and all accessories: OFF
•Transaxle: Neutral (P range on vehicles with A/T)
NOTE:
On vehicles for Canada, the headlight, taillight, etc. remain lit even when the lighting switch is in "OFF" position but this is no problem for checks and adjustment.
2.Remove all of the ignition coils.
3.Remove the rocker cover.
4.Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the notch on the pulley is lined up with the "T" mark on the timing indicator.
AK204362ADEXHAUST VALVE SIDENo. 1No. 2No. 3No. 4INTAKE VALVE SIDE
5.Move the rocker arms on the No.1 and No.4 cylinders up and down by hand to determine which cylinder has its piston at the top dead center on the compression stroke.
If both intake and exhaust valve rocker arms have a valve lash, the piston in the cylinder corresponding to these rocker arms is at the top dead center on the compression stroke.
6.Valve clearance inspection and adjustment can be performed on rocker arms indicated by white arrow mark when the No.1 cylinder piston is at the top dead center on the compression stroke, and on rocker arms indicated by black arrow mark when the No.4 cylinder piston is at the top dead center on the compression stroke.
7.Measure the valve clearance.
If the valve clearance is not as specified, loosen the rocker arm lock nut and adjust the clearance using a thickness gauge while turning the adjusting screw.

Standard value (hot engine):
Intake side: 0.20 mm (0.008 inch)
Exhaust side: 0.30 mm (0.012 inch)

8.While holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver to prevent it from turning, tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
Tightening torque: 9 ± 1 N⋅m (80 ± 9 in-lb)
9.Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees to line up the notch on the crankshaft pulley with the "T" mark on the timing indicator.
10.Repeat steps (7) and (8) on other valves for clearance adjustment.

Hope that helps........
11.Install the rocker cover.
12.Install the ignition coils.
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Feb 9, 2011 | 11:41 PM
  #138  
I'll be doing this in the up and coming spring with an RRM stage 2 cam and a bunch of other goodies, so I'd really like to know if there is a standard value for a cold engine install too or if it 100% has to be a hot engine (I'd remembered seeing the values in inches but not millimeters so I've been asking around for that haha, your post was really helpful in clarifying this ^ so thank you)
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Feb 10, 2011 | 06:59 AM
  #139  
In the service manuals and All Data, hot motor is a must.
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Feb 10, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #140  
im running the rrm cam and havent had to do a valvelash yet. is that bad?
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Feb 10, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #141  
I think it's something that should be done when you're changing valvetrain components.
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Feb 10, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #142  
Quote: I think it's something that should be done when you're changing valvetrain components.
Exactly the cam profile differences would cause valve float and not give you 100% performance from the cam....
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Feb 10, 2011 | 09:35 PM
  #143  
i see. approximately how long does doing a valve lash take? and how much should i expect to get charged if having a shop do it?
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Feb 10, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #144  
I recently called around to some places around here, they all said it would be about 3 hours labor. Everyone on here says it takes about 30-60min. So wherever you bring it, they are probably charging you more than they should.Dealership and other places quoted me at $180 for just the valve lash. I found a shop that said they would install all my timing belt stuff and a valve lash for $240.
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Feb 17, 2011 | 01:37 PM
  #145  
ok, I contacted delta cams by email. They quoted me $600...am I missing something here? I thought it was about $110.
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Feb 17, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #146  
Quote: ok, I contacted delta cams by email. They quoted me $600...am I missing something here? I thought it was about $110.
Whoa wth? I thought it was around the 110 range too
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Feb 17, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #147  
Are you supplying your own core? The 110 price is based on supplying your own core. I do not know how much it will cost if they have to start from a steel billet.
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Feb 17, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #148  
Yea he said thats the price with my core. I'll send him another email and see what the deal is
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Feb 17, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #149  
I just emailed Delta. Hopefully I get some clarity on all of this.
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Feb 17, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #150  
Just got and email from delta myself. if you say your from Evom and supply the cam its 93.50
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