Car loses power around 5,800rpms
Car loses power around 5,800rpms
As the title states, I begin to lose power around 5,800 when in WoT. This only happened after the delta camshaft regrind. There are no cel's or any other problems that I can see. I plan on doing some major cleaning to the intake parts and checking fuel injectors and the plugs here soon. But would any of those cause this issue?
We are N/A sir.
Darewood I wouldn't be suprised if you're running lean past 5K RPMS. That seems to be an issue with the reflash and GT TB.
I may be doing some cam gear tuning very soon as well.
Darewood I wouldn't be suprised if you're running lean past 5K RPMS. That seems to be an issue with the reflash and GT TB.
I may be doing some cam gear tuning very soon as well.
Isn't boost leak checking for Turbo'd cars? I've never heard anyone saying that for N/A cars. I have seen your Dyno Sheet and I figured it was alright that it did this, I just want to make sure. I also have a crap ton of power though now. It seems like that all my mods are working together. Example from today, get on an entrance ramp following my friend (eclipse) He floored it while I just did about half throttle and I was catching him. (His isn't stock) Anyways I am running the 63mm TB from the Endeavor I believe it is. I couldn't find any reasonable priced GT TB's. But wouldn't my ecu throw a code if I was running lean? and is there any real way of telling besides dyno or a wideband?
I have the same issue. After the Delta cam I am loosing power the same way like you. My car is automatic and at WOT it has no power to get to 6500rpm to shift into next gear. Ken at Delta told me that the problem is that there is not enough vacuum in transmission and either I need a vacuum can or a reflash for the the transmission. I don't know if this is really the issue since there are no vacuum lines at all going into transmission. Since then I've had done the P&P IM, GT TB and timing box but neither helped. I was thinking to do a compression test but seeing that I'm not the only one I don't think that would be the problem anymore. I do not have the reflash so I am starting to think that there is something wrong with the profile that Delta is using to do the cams.
I'm pretty positive that there really isn't anything wrong with their profile. I don't understand a lot of things about cars, but a camshaft is a big part of the car if I'm not mistaken. It effects a great deal. I'm pretty happy with it actually, I just wish I could squeeze out an extra 500-1,000 rpms
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thats is odd I don't feel that way about the camshaft, I have tons of top end it still pulls throughout rpms til redline...
as for the valve lash mine is .020 and .030 but delta recommends the valvespring spacers throughout and tightened down an extra .003
as for the valve lash mine is .020 and .030 but delta recommends the valvespring spacers throughout and tightened down an extra .003
Well I know my mechanic wants to redo the lash. But that wont happen till about 2 weeks from now, due to vacations. I think he used the amount Delta asked for. Maybe when we do it, we'll try the original spec.
no you want it to be tighter than oem but you'll need the spacers to tighten it more, at least is what o have been told. I have yet to do the install but intend to to help quiet the motor a little
D-Wood - My understanding is that the car throws the lean code after it detects the lean condition for "x" % of time either under partial throttle or WOT. That's my base understanding. Ny car threw it on many occasions...I swapped back on the stock TB and it has never ran better.




