Radiator
So I changed the both hoses and I did a block test to see if there are any exhaust fumes in the coolant. The test came out ok, the head/block/gasket are ok, no exhaust fumes in the coolant. But it's still running to hot at around 199-203 and I still get a lot of bubbles whenever I run it with the rad cap off. Is it possible to suck air in from somewhere? Lanzer said it can be the IM thermal gasket. Any other ideas? I don't know what else to do anymore, it's so frustrating!
I didn't have time this weekend to take the thermal gasket off. I did use UV dye to see where it leacks and I found a very small one that I fixed but still I'm getting bubbles. I know it's not the head gasket or the block because 1. I did the block test that came negative and 2. the bubbles start coming out when the thermostat starts to open. Till the car gets to 183-185 I get no bubbles.
I've fixed my heating problem, it was the water pump. I can't see nothing damaged or wrong with the old one but as soon as I replaced it my car doesn't heat up anymore.
Now I also put a thermostat that opens at 170 and the car is running around 179-181 degrees. Is that to cold for the car to get to closed loop?
Now I also put a thermostat that opens at 170 and the car is running around 179-181 degrees. Is that to cold for the car to get to closed loop?
not sure if that's normal, as i don't monitor coolant temps...
I will say that my pump before i replaced it, the bearing had started to seize, and because it runs off the back of the serpentine belt, it started chirping, like the belt was dragging on the pulley, so the pump was not spinning at the same speed as the belt. But you didn't notice any strange sounds?
Glad it's all fixed up, i was sure that dinky radiator you hated should work fine, although bigger is better in this case.
I will say that my pump before i replaced it, the bearing had started to seize, and because it runs off the back of the serpentine belt, it started chirping, like the belt was dragging on the pulley, so the pump was not spinning at the same speed as the belt. But you didn't notice any strange sounds?
Glad it's all fixed up, i was sure that dinky radiator you hated should work fine, although bigger is better in this case.
Actually for the last 4 days I've noticed, when I started the car in the morning a rattling noise that made me decide to change the water pump.
Bigger IS better! LOL I love this radiator, it cools so good. Now the fans are barely turn on.
Bigger IS better! LOL I love this radiator, it cools so good. Now the fans are barely turn on.
I'll check the service manual, but I think 180* is too cold for proper closed loop operation.
(edit: what do you know, it'll do closed-loop quite a bit cooler than that, but will throw a CEL if the coolant doesn't get over 171* quick enough. For the record, the stock thermo starts opening at 180* and is fully open at 203*)
I also think the bubbles you see are because you have the cap off. With no pressure in the system, the hottest spots in the water jacket around the cylinders will make steam bubbles.
When you drive it around with the cap on, does it blow coolant out the overflow? Leave the cap on for a few days, drive it and let it cool several times, and then check your coolant level in the bottle and the radiator. If you're not losing any, put the cap back on and go on your way.
(edit: what do you know, it'll do closed-loop quite a bit cooler than that, but will throw a CEL if the coolant doesn't get over 171* quick enough. For the record, the stock thermo starts opening at 180* and is fully open at 203*)
I also think the bubbles you see are because you have the cap off. With no pressure in the system, the hottest spots in the water jacket around the cylinders will make steam bubbles.
When you drive it around with the cap on, does it blow coolant out the overflow? Leave the cap on for a few days, drive it and let it cool several times, and then check your coolant level in the bottle and the radiator. If you're not losing any, put the cap back on and go on your way.
Last edited by Myszkewicz; Nov 12, 2011 at 11:09 PM.
Thx Myszkewicz for reminding me about the manual, totally forgot to check it( I got so excited that finally I fixed this damn issue). Like you said it reaches closed loop at 169-171. According with some troubleshooting guides the temp has to be at least 176 but the normal operating temperature is between 185-203 for the fuel system to work properly. So I guess I'm fine...
Even better would be if you could remove your existing pulleys and send them to me to take measurements from, and tell me how much smaller you want them.
Unfortunately, that would mean your car would be down for a little while unless you have extras you can send.
Wow that would be awesome but unfortunetly I don't know how much smaller I have to go. I was thinking to get a smaller pulley because I have the UDP and now the water pump and the alternator spin slower.
On another note the size of the pulleys should be the same as in your 04 RA.
On another note the size of the pulleys should be the same as in your 04 RA.
Wow that would be awesome but unfortunetly I don't know how much smaller I have to go. I was thinking to get a smaller pulley because I have the UDP and now the water pump and the alternator spin slower.
On another note the size of the pulleys should be the same as in your 04 RA.
On another note the size of the pulleys should be the same as in your 04 RA.
I can probably figure out the pattern for the ribbed belt, but would need to know offset (like a wheel might be +42) and overall diameter you were looking for. Plus whatever the bolt pattern is, I see 4 bolts on the water pump pulley, would need the diameter of the bolt holes and diameter of the bolt hole circle (again, like a wheel might be 5x114.3). Seems kinda silly though, to put on an UD crank pulley to spin the accessories slower, then put on smaller pulleys to spin them faster again. Why not just put your stock crank pulley back on?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
