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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

tranny problems...still really

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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 03:47 PM
  #166  
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it's ok to have some play on the bushing, as long as the pin is holding it on, and some lube will go a long way, make sure to also take apart the control levers and clean and lube them up really good...
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 05:27 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
it's ok to have some play on the bushing, as long as the pin is holding it on, and some lube will go a long way, make sure to also take apart the control levers and clean and lube them up really good...
yeah i didnt do that last year i think i will this year take them apart and clean them up, i just put some grease on the saddle and the pins last eyar
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 06:21 PM
  #168  
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take the hinges down, and lube them up...the in-out (left-right on the shifter) lever comes apart with one nut, and theres just some plastic bushings on the hinge...
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 04:09 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
take the hinges down, and lube them up...the in-out (left-right on the shifter) lever comes apart with one nut, and theres just some plastic bushings on the hinge...
so i tried to do this the other day and there was no nut, there are two pins that need to come out in order for me to get the selector shaft out, one is a spring clip which came off fine, the other is a big one on the piece that moves the forks and it didnt move at all not sure how to get this apart didnt really wanna wail on it
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #170  
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So I got my parts 250$ for 2/3 and case seal 20$ duty. 2nd gear looked damaged but not as much as I thought, more of flat spots on the dogs. Re assembled the shafts on Friday if u guys want comparison photos I can take some.

Re assembling trans next week fingers crossed she will shift nice again in spring I'm dying to really drive again.

Last edited by RallyartRob; Dec 30, 2012 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 12:43 AM
  #171  
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this part, the nut is under the plastic cap...(number 1)

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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:34 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
this part, the nut is under the plastic cap...(number 1)

Is know what your referring to know, but all I was gonna do was disassemble the shifter shafts and clean all the bushings and housing, as it feels like there is some excessive play in the bushing that holds the shafts. I'm hoping placing it on the housing with the bottom small bearing will remove alot of play
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #173  
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yeah just make sure that hinge is nice and lubed, and your left-right shifter movement will be silky smooth, it helped me with mine. mine was not returning to center, but it wasn't like a little bit, it was like difficult to move it...lol
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 04:01 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
yeah just make sure that hinge is nice and lubed, and your left-right shifter movement will be silky smooth, it helped me with mine. mine was not returning to center, but it wasn't like a little bit, it was like difficult to move it...lol
Mines easy go move with the car shifter or by hand and it all moves nice uninstalled, it's just if I hold the shifter housing in my hand I can move the actually bar around quite a bit, so I'm wondering if maybe the bushing is worn or just needs support at the end were the small bearing is in the transmission housing

Its an easy replace if I want to next year or if I decide I do want a new first or reverse gear aswell
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 04:40 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by RallyartRob
Mines easy go move with the car shifter or by hand and it all moves nice uninstalled, it's just if I hold the shifter housing in my hand I can move the actually bar around quite a bit, so I'm wondering if maybe the bushing is worn or just needs support at the end were the small bearing is in the transmission housing

Its an easy replace if I want to next year or if I decide I do want a new first or reverse gear aswell
so to add to myself, with the tranny assembled the shifter bar going into the tranny that actually moves the gear selector linkages is alot more study having the support of the bearing in the back, but i still think it could be a little snugger maybe if i could have replaced the plastic seal in the shifter housing should be fine tho.

Something to do next time if i replace r gear and put an lsd in this thing

excited to drive come spring with new 2/3 gears as well as full urethane mounts, and possibly stage 2 cam and either the piggy/Tbox or a hackish flash if i can sell the two RRM boxes
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 10:59 AM
  #176  
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Waiting on engine mounts my friend took them to his shop for me. He is going to remove all the rubber and solid fill with a 60A urethane, if anyone else is interested i can ask since he will have all the molds made to hold the mount and bushing to be filled.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #177  
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Interesting, what would be the price? And gains? Not HP wise, not that newbie :P
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Old Jan 17, 2013 | 05:47 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by MarkChamorro
Interesting, what would be the price? And gains? Not HP wise, not that newbie :P
Price not sure depends where u live and what he says ill ask. Benefit it less wheel hop and anything else thoese companies that make these claims, anddddd hell remove the rubber for you so u dont have to.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 03:13 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by RallyartRob
Price not sure depends where u live and what he says ill ask. Benefit it less wheel hop and anything else thoese companies that make these claims, anddddd hell remove the rubber for you so u dont have to.
Is it going to have a lip around the edges to hold it within the metal base? I removed all the rubber, used primer,then the urethane and after a few years it still shrunk and became loose within the bracket.
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 07:40 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
Is it going to have a lip around the edges to hold it within the metal base? I removed all the rubber, used primer,then the urethane and after a few years it still shrunk and became loose within the bracket.
i think it will be out past the metal a little bit but not 100% sure, the way he explained it is he has special primer products that will be sprayed on the bare metal and then the urethane applied to that. He assured me that the only way the product will separate now is with chemicals (that he has) and heat applied, or drilling and cutting so it should not fall apart for many years much longer then the oem rubber.

This is being done by an actual company not a garage DIY project so the urethane and primers he uses will be manufacturing quality and probably alot stronger and better then what we can find at local stores or ebay buys.
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