Some people talk about hockey like it's fun.
Different strokes for different folks man.

Sounds like you did ok to me if you dropped the gearbox and got back in with the new clutch etc. I bet if you had it to do again it would not take you so long right ?
That's how we all learn.

 

You lived a life of luxury working in the school, Kid. Cranswick did it for the first time too, with the car on cinder blocks, on his dirt/gravel driveway, outside while it was raining, mostly by himself, and measuring/prepping for his custom turbo at the same time.

Like 2006 RA said, it's called experience and you're a better man for it. Good on you for finishing the job!

 

Nice job the thing that sucks doing stuff at school is your in the class room for some time than you go out to the shop.. We're following all data?.. I was lucky to have a friend who has done clutches before help me it took us 8 hours cause greeting the trans in/out was a pain cause we didn't drop the motor far enough down.. Second time I dropped it took me 8 hours with little to no help but I changed the input shaft bearing too.. I can only imagine how hard it is doing it on blocks in the dirt

 

yeah i was like cranswick did it in my garage on 4 stands and used some bricks and wood to support engine and my jack to fight the tranny out. It worked i know how to do it so i could do it again faster i think, but ideally id get an engine support from the top but the car up on a hoist and remove it from the bottom.

 

this is the manly way of doing it, i say that from a poor man's perspective...i bug RalliartN for lift access whenever i can...speaking of which, i got OEM mounts to make copies of...

 

I'll see you soon to pick them up, and I'm in the shop this week to do a couple things before the next Shannonville lapping day a week Monday

I'm on holidays for a long time, tell me what works for you

 

Well, I'll bring this thread back from the dead.

It has lots of good tranny fluid information: Amsoil causes problems, GM Synchromesh FM is good (OEM GM), OEM mitsu is also good.

So we can, for now, say that oem is good stuff...

But no one has posted about OEM Honda...

I'll take this test. It's way cheaper than GM Synchromesh FM which is $15 a bottle here at all the local dealerships. Honda fluid was $27.95 for 3 bottles. Will post up results once it's in and has some miles on it.

 

i haven't had any issues with amsoil...but don't honda transmissions use motor oil weight fluid? i don't think it will work well...

I've been using the amsoil for quite some time, it does get a bit thin and slippery when i'm racing, but as a year round fluid for a DD in Canada, it serves pretty well, though i am going to try Redline MTL after this rebuild...

 

Correct you are! however in terms of real units of viscosity (centistokes), the viscosities are very close. SAE has two different scales, one for motor oil, one for gear oil.

The kinematic viscosity of a 75W90 is approximately equal to the kinematic viscosity of 5 or 10W40. Just look at the Amsoil specs for MTG 75W90 and 5W40, the viscosities at 40C and 100C are pretty much the same (Amsoil MTG) and (Amsoil AFL 5W40)

Refer to this image HERE

I'm not too sure which amsoil you are using, MTG 75w90, or Synchromesh MTF 5W30, but I've had the most problems with MTG, less problems with MTF, and no problems with Motul (besides the price ). Admittedly, Honda MTF is very watery in viscosity, but so is Amsoil MTF. Amsoil MTF is supposedly a direct replacement for Honda MTF, so I'm giving it a shot. will keep everyone posted.

I'll also add that the original poster had most of the problems he had solved by replacing the Amsoil with OEM Mitsu. So I definitely recommend you try Redline (pretty much anything except amsoil...)

 

I ran stock fluid for like 50k miles. Had alot of notching and weirdness when it was cold. Been running Syncroshift for 15k miles now and I love it. Night and day difference.

https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...roducts_id=825

 

What synchroshift fluid are you running? cause although i have done my rebuild 6000 ago its still a bit notchy in 1/2 but i think this is more due to the dremeling that i did to the dog teeth and not so much the oem oil

 

I believe it's the same stuff Otter was running, BG Synchroshift II http://www.bgprod.com/products/driveline.html

OEM oil solved most of your problems though compared to amsoil?

 

Ya its the "BG Syncro Shift® II". I posted the link to Buschers website because that was where i bought mine from. I am sure there are other sellers tho.

 

so to anyone still following this more then dragged on thread...i think i fixed mine hopefully.

So i was bleeding it the other day and the slave went completely dry lost all pedal use ( just dead, nothing, noda) so couldn't figure out why tried bleeding more but no fluid would come out, while my reservoir should it was maybe 4/5 up from the min to the max line so i thought couldn't be that.

To everyone that thinks they need expensive stuff to bleed the car u dont u need 4ft of 3/16id hose which was 1.08 at rona and i only really used like 2 ft of it. brake fluid and 1-2 hours of your time. i did this all by myself tonight.

1) Filled reservoir full to top of lid and opened slave nipple (SN) didn't bother with the Master nipple cause its actually impossible, mitsu for the win :P. So i let it feed a bit at which point i just started to suck with my moth on the hose attached to my SN until i saw fluid start to fill it.

2) refilled reservoir and started pumping the slave in and out with the nipple close. until i saw no more air come up at the reservoir ( R)at which point i closed the and pumped the clutch pedal a few times.

3) went back opened the SN and pushed the slave in then closed the nipple, did this for a while until no more air came out, pumped the slave some more to push anymore air to the top and then did a few bleeds with the pedal down, SN open and pushing in on the slave then closing nipple letting it go back out and then pushing it in with nipple open again.

Managed to get almost all air i could out of the system considering it was just air this morning. only cost me about 15$ and was not to bad on my own.

The reason my lines got full with air is because mitsu decided to take the R divide it into 6 parts completely separate the clutch one from the rest so the only way it can get oil is if the R is literally over filled and to the brim. So although i had oil in my reservoir it was just taking oil from this one back part and draining it.

Problem solved went for a test drive actually seems to shift better and currently clutch pedal feels good not to stiff not to soft and not to much pedal free play. Hopefully it stays this way and i wont feel the need to replace 1/2 gear tobad i waited till the end of summer to actually realize this.

here is when i started u can see oil but look close the part where the clutch hooks up to is actually empty
http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/...1005-00403.jpg


here is after i put oil in u can see now it has fluid
http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/...1005-00405.jpg

any questions just ask

 

so im looking at getting a new slave and master because i think my master is sticking and causing me bad shifts and probably wont last forever so, im wondering if anyone has purchased the exedy ones of rock auto part# MC522 and SC844 curious if they are A) any good and B) an oem replacement seeing as i cant find anything on exedy site

thanks