I got them: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...s-way-out.html

A) Yes they are good, but only one issue (below)
B) they are an OEM replacement. and it's listed in their catalogue http://www.exedyusa.com/catalogs/EXE...og_2013-14.pdf

I got the master cylinder for the EVO8, and there was only one problem with it and that was that the studs that thread in to the master doesn't have enough threads, so I got some washers to space it. no problems. I got the ralliart slave. See pics for master:

Exedy Evo8



OEM Ralliart




Just be sure that it's the master and slave that are actually giving you problems and not the clutch itself (as I have learned from my experiences)

 

i could probably thread it more at work using a die set no?

and i thought the evo 7-9 and rallairt were really similar lol.

so to clarify u have an exedy evo8 which is almost identical to RA (thread lenght wrong) and is a good part?

edit 1: the evo8 one u use is it part number exedy mc520? that what rockauto has and its half the price of the RA one im goona try and look it up in the parts catalouge not goona lie dont know how to use it lol.
edit 2: i can see that evo8 exedy one doesnt have the 4 bolt access port on the side is this a problem or a benefit??

thanks for your help again man

 

You could thread it more but that means you have to pull the studs out because you won't have room to turn the die. I didn't want to risk damaging the threads so I just used a few washers.

Evo7-9 are the same. Ralliart is different, but evo7-9 works no problems on ralliart. The only difference is that plate and the bleeder, which I believe has something to do with the orifice restrictor near the slave, but mechanically I can see it not doing anything besides being a major pain to bleed. Also, some people have had the plate area leak, so going without it is a major benefit besides it also being cheaper. See my thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...intensive.html

MC520 is the correct part number I used for my master. Slave I got SC844.

 

so im thinking the no acess port is a good thing, but is there a bleeder? i know when i had to bleed my whole system the other day after managing to drain all oil from it by acident that i didnt need the bleeder on the master but maybe for when i do a bench bleed i think i would be more comfortable if there was one u know.

im goona call part source and get a quote on mc522 mc520 and the sc844 later
Thanks Rob

 

Bleeder is not necessary since the plate is no longer there if you look at the fluid routing in my dissection. that and it's a pain beyond to try to get your hand and a wrench and tubing or a papertowel to try to open the bleeder. Since there is no extra fluid routing to the 4-bolt plate chamber, and the evo7-9 MC is a simple cylinder, it's not necessary to try to bleed the air out of the master via a master bleed screw. Take for example the brake master cylinder, there is no bleed screw on that.

 

i looked at the master to bleed it just got a wrench on it but couldnt get any towel or cloth in and a hose was im possible so i said forget it and just bleed and pumped the slave alot lol, but ok cool i called partsource they only found the mc5520 and couldnt get it so i ordered it and the sc844 i think it was off rockauto hopefully have it fri night but probably mon, damn. Thanks for the help if u have any tips or concers to give me would be nice if not thanks and ill post something when i do the work.

 

hmm. tips... it's a pain to try to remove the MC, but it does eventually come out. you have to try every angle possible to try to remove it. Once you find the correct angle it will come out easy. remember this angle or else you will have to guess again for the correct angle to put it back in. not having that "access plate" on the MC helps since the body is physically smaller.

When you are removing the MC, take out the clevis and stop nut on the rod so it doesn't get caught on the hole on the way out.

Disconnect the reservoir hose from the reservoir end before removing.

When installing, tighten the banjo bolt and attach the reservoir hose to the MC before installing. It's almost impossible to tighten the banjo bolt once the MC is in place. Also, you can use the hose to help navigate the MC in to place.

I think those are the only troubles I ran in to. Slave is pretty easy Be sure to fill the reservoir to the brim before bleeding.

 

Thanks Man im goona look through the mitsu manual as well and see what sort of steps it has.

 

so i know this has been talked about before about redline mt90, my boss was telling em about a redline shockproof light bit more expensive and blue :O he says he uses it in his Porche 944 race car which has synchros and he says it works amazing cold and hot and even after his transmission was a bit rough before and keep in mind this is a race car.

The redline sight says it cant be used on synchro transmission but he says his porches uses synchros and its fine.

Anyone have experience with this shockproof light and can give me some input would be great.

Thanks Rob

 

Rob, i recently switched to redline MTL and it was way better than any other oil i've tried (motomaster, penzoil, and amsoil)...my third gear notchiness dissappeared completely...with the amsoil it was better, but got a bit notchy once the oil got warmed up, but the MTL, no matter how hard i drove it, i could shift smoother and faster than ever...even when it's cold it shifts well...

 

I used the mt90 and its ok but it doesn't compare to the MTL..

 

thanks man ill look into that, does it do better then the redline mt90? i guess im looking at redline mt90, mtl,or shockproof light next spring in the tranny

 

lol u just answered my question for crankswick, so i did the master and slave swap last night, tested it this morning on my way to work, clutch now releases almost on the floor compared to when it would release really high with the oem RA master, is this normal for you as well? i bleed it like crazy no air left in the system.

Side Bar : Also i ended up removing the studs from the oem master and switching with the ones of the exedy evo master worked beautifully no washeres perfect fit :P

Tips: 1) grind two flats on the exedy evo master cylinder pushroad it will help for adjusting later... alot
2) read the warning on the resevoir cap it says to wipe the lid this will help i noticed alot of sand build up on my master as well as a lot of dirt inside my lid could have been a lead to my problems, and i keep my engine bay pretty clean so.
3) took me 1-2 hours bleeding by myself but went well
4) start by removing the clevis pin the bolt and the braket that attaches the master push road the the clutch pedal, remove the fill tube and use the exit tube to the slave to help pull the unit out.
5) by the the exedy evo mc it will go in alot easier and its a perfect fit as stated above if u dont want to use washer it is possible to remove the studs from the oem RA master and replace on the new exedy evo master.
6) have lots of clothes the brake fluid will get everywhere

 

When I called Redline they told me to either run Straight MT-90 or a cocktail of 2 Qts MTL and 1 Qt MT-90. I was told straight MTL was a little too thin for our transmissions.

 

in Canada and the northern US, if you drive in the winter you want straight MTL, if you want to change gear oil twice a year you can, but you don't want MT-90 in the transmission in below freezing temperatures...