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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

tranny problems...still really

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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 10:03 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
in Canada and the northern US, if you drive in the winter you want straight MTL, if you want to change gear oil twice a year you can, but you don't want MT-90 in the transmission in below freezing temperatures...
so what would u suggest considering i only drive my car april 1- nov 1? never really below freezing but sometimes close to it on the way to work. MTL or MT90 or maybe a mix of both?
to be honest im not even sure if it will help my problem on first to second gear i think i just need to replace the gear because of the dremeling i did to the surface of the dog teeth to bad it only shifts bad once and a while tho.

Last edited by RallyartRob; Oct 19, 2012 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #92  
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I ran straight MT-90 year round for two years and never had any problems. It gets below freezing about 30 days a year where I live and we get a lot of snow. Since then I have switched to BG Syncroshift II and haven't looked back. Best transmission fluid I have found.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #93  
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30 days? how far below freezing? that's nothing, last year was abnormally mild up here, but -30 celcius (-22 F) or more is not uncommon, and sub-zero temps last longer than 30 days normally...what happens with the MT-90 is it's thicker, so when it's cold, the gearbox will feel very stiff, and shifting is notchy until it warms up, which may take longer than a drive to work, depending on your commute, and that's not good on the transmission if all your drving is done with cold oil.

Rob, i know you don't drive her in the winter so you could go full on MT-90, or like a 2/3 MT-90 : 1/3 MTL mix, or something like that...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Oct 19, 2012 at 11:30 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #94  
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I like the MTL and I drive in 57-95 F I'll try a cocktail of the two next time
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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Hi i am new to the evolutionm and never posted anything, but i am wondering if anyone out there can help me out I'm desperate, i have a huge problem with my transmission or i dont know what it can be. i drive an 03 evo 8 and everytime i back up in a drive way or something or just cutting my wheel all the way my car makes a clunk noise and my wheels literally lock up and doesnt let me car roll at all. it completely stops it. i changed my tires and everything trying to figure out this problem. My mechanic cant even see in my transmission because he does not know what to look for, can someone please help!!!!
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #96  
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only in reverse?
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:08 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by goncalves77
Hi i am new to the evolutionm and never posted anything, but i am wondering if anyone out there can help me out I'm desperate, i have a huge problem with my transmission or i dont know what it can be. i drive an 03 evo 8 and everytime i back up in a drive way or something or just cutting my wheel all the way my car makes a clunk noise and my wheels literally lock up and doesnt let me car roll at all. it completely stops it. i changed my tires and everything trying to figure out this problem. My mechanic cant even see in my transmission because he does not know what to look for, can someone please help!!!!
just throwing it out there im thinking maybe a cv joint issue? maybe there wearing and its pooping out of spot a bit at a max turn? just an idea
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
30 days? how far below freezing? that's nothing, last year was abnormally mild up here, but -30 celcius (-22 F) or more is not uncommon, and sub-zero temps last longer than 30 days normally...what happens with the MT-90 is it's thicker, so when it's cold, the gearbox will feel very stiff, and shifting is notchy until it warms up, which may take longer than a drive to work, depending on your commute, and that's not good on the transmission if all your drving is done with cold oil.

Rob, i know you don't drive her in the winter so you could go full on MT-90, or like a 2/3 MT-90 : 1/3 MTL mix, or something like that...
garret and anyone else any ideas about the bg synchroshift ii? i still really think my problem is related to the surface on the gear but if i can find a good thin fluid thats slippery and sticks to the gears then i think itll be ok
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
I like the MTL and I drive in 57-95 F I'll try a cocktail of the two next time
this debate just gets worse and worse people keep adding new fluids
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 07:31 PM
  #100  
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give the MTL a try, Ziggy @ RTM racing sells it for a good price...he also carries the BG synchroshift line up, as well as the GM synchromesh

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Oct 19, 2012 at 07:34 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 06:36 AM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
30 days? how far below freezing? that's nothing, last year was abnormally mild up here, but -30 celcius (-22 F) or more is not uncommon, and sub-zero temps last longer than 30 days normally...what happens with the MT-90 is it's thicker, so when it's cold, the gearbox will feel very stiff, and shifting is notchy until it warms up, which may take longer than a drive to work, depending on your commute, and that's not good on the transmission if all your drving is done with cold oil.

Rob, i know you don't drive her in the winter so you could go full on MT-90, or like a 2/3 MT-90 : 1/3 MTL mix, or something like that...
Here it rarely goes completely negative. Typically right around 0-5 degrees F on the coldest days. That being said that on really cold days the MT-90 gets really thick and the gears are really notchy until everything warms up. We don't need block heaters like you do in Canada.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 09:06 AM
  #102  
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I sent an email to ziggy at rtm racing, asking between the redline mt90, mtl, shock proof, bg synchroshift, and gm which he might suggest for my situation if any, nice to see he does stock them all at really competitive prices i asked performance improvments for the shock proof they told me 35 a quart ziggy has it listed for 15.19 :P see what he says i will post his email if it is helpful
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 09:57 AM
  #103  
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performance improvements sucks, i don't know how they stay in business, they sell the AEM short ram intake for almost $300.

Ziggy's prices are normal retail markup, not 200% of the MSRP...RTM racing is where i get all my fluids, and turbo accessories, and i've been talking with him about certain aftermarket parts for lancers, and he's interested in expanding, they've already started a lancer ralliart section on the website, and we've been discussing what products would be good to have in stock, this way we could have all the popular parts that RRM carries, but a north of the border one-stop shop...Maybe i'll talk him into joining Evolutionm.net as a vendor, and running some polls to see what canadian lancer owners would like to see in the store...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Oct 20, 2012 at 10:00 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #104  
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It's when I'm going to froward as well, like say I'm at a drive thru and I'm turning left, even my back passenger tires will spin a little idk what it could be. I also noticed that when its a cold start and hasn't been driven for a while it doesn't do it as much, mostly when the car heats up.

Last edited by goncalves77; Oct 20, 2012 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by goncalves77
It's when I'm going to froward as well, like say I'm at a drive thru and I'm turning left, even my back passenger tires will spin a little idk what it could be. I also noticed that when its a cold start and hasn't been driven for a while it doesn't do it as much, mostly when the car heats up.
not your transmission if A. it does it in forward and reverse. B. it only happens when turning. C. rear wheels still get power from the transmission, meaning unhindered power is leaving the transmission.

definately doubt tires, lol. i would say it's likely something to do with the only thing that would affect diff-to wheel power ( or motion of any sort, lol) while turning, a CV joint....i would think tire rub would would not lock the wheels, but you've elimated that...

i dunno man...is the front diff stock?
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