Da_Moose

I'm currently removing the transmission as I suspect I need to replace the Input Shaft Bearing but I'm stuck on one step. The service manual states to separate the T/B from the wedge collar using a screwdriver through a service hole. I can't seem to find this service whole and all the searching of the forums it's only mentioned relating to the Evo. If this service hole exists on the F5M42 transmission, where is it? Thanks in advance.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I've had my transmission off and on about 6 times and I have no clue what you're talking about....if by T/B you mean throw out bearing, or clutch release bearing, the f5m42 uses a push release clutch, you don't need to separate the bearing from anything, it just sits there. I think you have the wrong fsm, lol

Da_Moose

Thank you, that was my suspicion too. I've looked at ShopKey, AllData and the factory manual posted on here and it's shown as part of the removal steps in all of them. I've seen it refered to here but only in reference to the Evo trans. Weird, thanks for the help. Didn't want to proceed until I knew for sure.

Da_Moose

I'm having difficulties separating the transmission from the engine. I'm not sure how to remove the transmission with the rear transmission mount bracket still attached. I've tried lowering the engine/transmission but the bracket/mount just bind so I can't pull the transmission off. I can see the 3 bolts to remove the bracket but I cannot figure out how to get to/remove the one bolt inside the bracket that's covered by the mount itself.

Does this bracket need to be removed first? and if not what is the trick to remove the transmission while clearing the mount? If it needs to be removed how do I get access to this 3rd bolt?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

ensure the transmission is shifted to neutral, pull the transmission away from the engine, so it clears the dowels (about a 1/2"), then you will be able to rotate the transmission on the input shaft which is still in the hub of the clutch...roll the tranny forward so the bracket clears the rear mount, and remove the tranny...be careful, it's pretty heavy.

Da_Moose

Appreciate the response but I got it out before I could read it. I think part of my issue had something to do with removing all the case bolts before removing the left transmission mount/bolts which caused some binding in the rear mount. I started over the next day by leaving 2 bolts in then lowering the engine THEN remove the 2 case bolts. We used a ratchet strap around the engine support to help turn the transmission to clear the mount. Then used an engine hoist to slowly lower the transmission down to the ground. I must say, kudos to all you guys that can remove and install by hand, there was NO way I was going to attempt it, I think I would end up breaking its fall with my face

I got the transmission apart (thanks again CrAnSwIcK for the video, it help immensely), and I found my problem. My input shaft bearing was completely destroyed!!! As far as I can tell so far, the only signs of damage is a little wear on the edge of 1st gear from the excess play of the input shaft but I think it will be fine. I'll get some pics when I get back to it, but now I'm waiting for parts/time off to reassemble the transmission.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

You may end up with a bit of gear whine, which will eventually cause wear...1st gear on the input is the shaft itself, so hopefully it's not too bad...

Tw3NTy0n3

iTrader: (1)

Bringing this up from the dead!

How heavy is heavy? 80lbs? 150lbs?

I'm attempting this solo. I have an engine support bar supporting the motor and was having issues clearing the rear mount and found this thread.

I have a jack under the transmission but since the transmission needs to rotate to clear the rear mount, it sounds like I'll either need to 'muscle' it out of there if it's not super heavy or somehow support the transmission using a strap/chain and the existing engine support bar and then muscle it out of there?

Is this not a solo'able project? I'm hoping I don't have to buy an engine hoist or even worse, have to go out and make friends to help me out.

kinksleft

I can awkwardly lift one by myself. So I would guess it's propably around 80 pounds. But I had to replace my engine too when I removed my gearbox, so I just took the whole works out all together with an engine hoist. I've read it is possible to separate though.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

If you have swivel ended gear wrenches, and the bolts aren't seized you can remove the rear mount bracket from the transmission while it's in there so you can pull the transmission straight out...and yeah I think 80-90lbs is probably accurate...I do it alone, but a helper is not a bad idea...what I do is I sit in the wheel well and rest it on my knees while I wrestle it out of the clutch and off the engine, and then flatten my legs to let it down, and then just let it slide between my legs till it's on the ground...putting it back in alone is harder...could use like construction knee pads if your not hard as nails ��

Tw3NTy0n3

iTrader: (1)

I do have swivel ended gear wrenches but I assumed it'd be seized and the bolt wouldn't clear the space.

I was able to get it out after a lot of wrestling with it. I put a jack underneath it and had a chain hooked up to the engine support bar and looped it around the transmission. I gave both more slack as I wrestled it out. It took a while but at least it's done.

This is one of those times where I wish had some type of tool to help out but at the same time I probably wouldn't use that tool as much so it would feel like a bad investment. The engine support bar is a good example of that, I borrowed this one from a friend. I'm not a huge gear head, I couldn't justify the expense in my head. I was able to justify getting an impact wrench tho!

Now I wait for the postal service to track down the lost bearings/seals so I can finish this up. I've been studying your transmission disassembly video to prep for that.

Thanks for all the advice!

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I've been meaning to do a rebuild video to cover replacing gears and synchros and also reassembly to include differential preload... though I haven't yet had to use a different sized shim on the diff bearing than what was already in there...but it should be verified...the service manual breaks it down pretty good...

Tw3NTy0n3

iTrader: (1)

That would definitely come in handy for the rare people out there working on this prehistoric vehicle.

I don't want to start another thread so I'll ask here. I hope that's okay.

Any idea how to replace the outer race bearing? It sits in the case and is capped off on the other end. I bought a kit and replaced the rest of the bearings already. Had to take the differential into a machine shop as I dont have a press to remove those.

The last bearing I'm not sure about is the #5 displayed in the attachment. I can probably get loaner tools from the auto parts store to pop it out but I'm worried about not being able to pop the new one in. I'm hoping I dont need a heat gun or a press? Would a rubber mallet do?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I used a small puller with the hooks flipped around facing outward and then used a thick piece of flat stock to push off of... don't used the case, lol...I think I had to grind the claws a bit so they fit in the grooves...Im 95% sure I just used a mallet to install the new one...

Tw3NTy0n3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for that info. The puller I was loaned from the auto parts store was too thick. I made the mistake of Googling info on the race bearing and it seems like it's super important. I almost don't want to touch it in fear of messing up something that's not broken. Some places recommend heating the case to get it to drop out more easily and the same with dropping it back in. I almost feel like I'm in over my head with that one. Thanks again!