The Official Ralliart NOOB Thread
Otter is right, as usual. I noticed the most gains from my CAI on mine. Also sounds cool
. I had their magnaflow axleback, I don't think they have it any more. It sounded great but I definitely noticed more out of the CAI. Consider their piggyback as well. All 3 kinda go together.
. I had their magnaflow axleback, I don't think they have it any more. It sounded great but I definitely noticed more out of the CAI. Consider their piggyback as well. All 3 kinda go together.ROAD/RACE
was going to start a new thread but i think here should be ok
woke up this morning as usual, went to go and start the car and it just wouldnt like it would click and make weird scary noises(i didnt push it too long coz the car sounded like it was hurting) anyways i stopped and looked at all the lights and the CEL, ABS, airbag lights all phased out as normal and the stereo came on as usual and everything worked fine, just the car wouldnt turn on, not even a cranking noise like when you turn the key and the starter motor cranks the engine just nothing
so anyways long story short paid ~$300AUD for a guy to come out(coz i thought i was covered with mitsubishi roadside assist but it ran out with NO! reminders, so i got the RACV and coz i wasnt a member and to join with an already 'broken' car its a ripoff but its to stop people just calling up when they need it and not have constant membership) so yeah i thought it was going to be the starter motor had died etc or something
turn out a cell in the battery was dead, enough juice to run everything, just not enough to start the engine. so yeah new battery should be here soon ... ~$175AUD for a big 600amp one...
Synopsis: people with 04-07 lancers if your car just dies and wont start its most likely your battery, they apparently only last average 3.5years so its coming around that time for them to give out ...
woke up this morning as usual, went to go and start the car and it just wouldnt like it would click and make weird scary noises(i didnt push it too long coz the car sounded like it was hurting) anyways i stopped and looked at all the lights and the CEL, ABS, airbag lights all phased out as normal and the stereo came on as usual and everything worked fine, just the car wouldnt turn on, not even a cranking noise like when you turn the key and the starter motor cranks the engine just nothing
so anyways long story short paid ~$300AUD for a guy to come out(coz i thought i was covered with mitsubishi roadside assist but it ran out with NO! reminders, so i got the RACV and coz i wasnt a member and to join with an already 'broken' car its a ripoff but its to stop people just calling up when they need it and not have constant membership) so yeah i thought it was going to be the starter motor had died etc or something
turn out a cell in the battery was dead, enough juice to run everything, just not enough to start the engine. so yeah new battery should be here soon ... ~$175AUD for a big 600amp one...
Synopsis: people with 04-07 lancers if your car just dies and wont start its most likely your battery, they apparently only last average 3.5years so its coming around that time for them to give out ...
AEM Air Bypass part#20-402S
Tools needed:*
-mini hacksaw
-slot head screwdriver
-marker to mark cut
-10mm socket and rachet
-round file to smooth and remove burs
it is the exact same size for Aem. I just installed the bypass valve last month-easy install. It took me about 30 minutes.
AEM Air Bypass part#20-402S
Tools needed:*
-mini hacksaw
-slot head screwdriver
-marker to mark cut
-10mm socket and rachet
-round file to smooth and remove burs
AEM Air Bypass part#20-402S
Tools needed:*
-mini hacksaw
-slot head screwdriver
-marker to mark cut
-10mm socket and rachet
-round file to smooth and remove burs
ROAD/RACE
RRM's kit was designed to run on stock internals, so no, it won't "kill" your engine. It's poor tuning and too much boost that kills engines and with RRM's kit you won't have to worry about either of those. We have members on this forum (including Mods I might add) that have been running that kit, including me, for thousands of miles with zero problems. It truly is the best forced induction kit on the market. Talk to ROCK if you're interested.
ok i have an 04 ralliart looking at building my own turbo set up but cant find a turbo manifold anywhere please help.
and how much boost can the stock internals take safely?
and do the injectors need to be upgraded and if so where can i find some?
and how much boost can the stock internals take safely?
and do the injectors need to be upgraded and if so where can i find some?
As for the internals, I've heard people recommending others to stay below 10psi just to be safe. I've heard of others running higher, but who knows how long that will last. Just make sure you are tuned properly, that is by far the most important thing. A guy could be running 2psi and still blow up his engine if he has a bad tune.
Here's a link for the flange...
http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/s...roducts_id=387
or your could buy the RRM manifold and work from there
most people run 7psi fine
injectors need to be upgraded, dont know the exact model, i think RRM have some or RPW, else WRX 'light blue' injectors work with minor modification, i bought a set from ebay and they are just sitting in the garage ...
most people run 7psi fine
injectors need to be upgraded, dont know the exact model, i think RRM have some or RPW, else WRX 'light blue' injectors work with minor modification, i bought a set from ebay and they are just sitting in the garage ...
ok so if i planed on doing 12 to 15 psi i would need rods and pistons? and i read somewhere that the stock fuel pump can hold up to 255 whp and what size injectors will do me good for up to 350whp and has anyone heard of Secret Service tuning thats where i plan to go for tuning. other then that what are the major key points i need to know in order to get all of this done?



