The Official Ralliart NOOB Thread
HID Kit
Hey guys just got a set of headlights with Halos and Projectors. The new headlights fit a H7 bulb with metal clips to hold them in. Im looking to get a HID kit for the projectors but i didnt know if the bulbs would need a metal base to conduct electricity or not. A link to the bulbs would be much appreciated. Thanks Guys
ok seeing how i cant find my post will an evo8 turbo and intercooler be good for the ra?
as in will it fit with the rrm turbo mani or will it be better just to go custom? and if the i/c will fit in the space we have in our car.
as in will it fit with the rrm turbo mani or will it be better just to go custom? and if the i/c will fit in the space we have in our car.
i believe the evo 8 16g is a twin scroll, so the flange is not the same as a regular 16g, that and the way the hot side (turbine housing) is made it's completely ***-backwards (180 degrees) to an older 16g, and i'm pretty sure RRM uses a standard TD05H 16g. Plus the RRM kit uses an external wastegate, so i'm thinking it would use a different non-internally gated hotside. But you could get a 14b or 16g and just modify the downpipe, and weld the wastegate shut.
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Jul 11, 2011 at 08:21 PM.
i believe the evo 8 16g is a twin scroll, so the flange is not TD05, that and the way the hot side (turbine housing) is made it's completely ***-backwards (180 degrees) to an older 16g, and i'm pretty sure RRM uses a standard TD05 16g. Plus the RRM kit uses an external wastegate, so i'm thinking it would use a different non-internally gated hotside. But you could get a 14b or TD05 16g and just modify the downpipe, and weld the wastegate shut.
Intercooler piping is pretty simple, if you can get a kit that's made for a lancer it should be pretty close, and it should have all the flanges/nipples etc that you need, if you go universal you'll have to get crafty, and some fabrication and creativity will be required.
your wastegate is how you control boost, you connect your wastegate actuator to the boost source or the compressor outlet via vacuum line, directly, or through a boost controller, and at whatever boost pressure your wastegate is set for, it will open a valve, bypassing your exhaust gas around the turbine wheel, maintaining relatively constant boost pressure. Without it you would build boost until the turbo broke down or your fuel system couldn't keep up and your engine would pop. If you are unsure of what this does, and the difference between the two, you need to do some reading. Internal and external is pretty self explanitory. external requires a more intricate downpipe, internal is built into the turbo's hotside, and with an O2 housing, the downpipe is quite simple.
For the downpipe you might have to hack it apart and change the flange, depending on the turbo/O2 housing, or however you decide to mate the downpipe to the turbo it may not work, then you'll probably want an O2 bung on the downpipe for a wideband sensor. I would be more inclined to have one made, or find one that was made for that turbo/manifold.
as far as i know, the piggy back from RRM will not work with 4 larger injectors, you need a reflash, or stand alone for that.
your wastegate is how you control boost, you connect your wastegate actuator to the boost source or the compressor outlet via vacuum line, directly, or through a boost controller, and at whatever boost pressure your wastegate is set for, it will open a valve, bypassing your exhaust gas around the turbine wheel, maintaining relatively constant boost pressure. Without it you would build boost until the turbo broke down or your fuel system couldn't keep up and your engine would pop. If you are unsure of what this does, and the difference between the two, you need to do some reading. Internal and external is pretty self explanitory. external requires a more intricate downpipe, internal is built into the turbo's hotside, and with an O2 housing, the downpipe is quite simple.
For the downpipe you might have to hack it apart and change the flange, depending on the turbo/O2 housing, or however you decide to mate the downpipe to the turbo it may not work, then you'll probably want an O2 bung on the downpipe for a wideband sensor. I would be more inclined to have one made, or find one that was made for that turbo/manifold.
as far as i know, the piggy back from RRM will not work with 4 larger injectors, you need a reflash, or stand alone for that.
ROAD/RACE
I've seen your kits, I figured it was that, or a similar variation. The Evo 8/9 stock turbos are quite different. What do you guys use for a hot side? Is the internal gate disabled some how or do you just block it off with a custom outlet flange?
Intercooler piping is pretty simple, if you can get a kit that's made for a lancer it should be pretty close, and it should have all the flanges/nipples etc that you need, if you go universal you'll have to get crafty, and some fabrication and creativity will be required.
your wastegate is how you control boost, you connect your wastegate actuator to the boost source or the compressor outlet via vacuum line, directly, or through a boost controller, and at whatever boost pressure your wastegate is set for, it will open a valve, bypassing your exhaust gas around the turbine wheel, maintaining relatively constant boost pressure. Without it you would build boost until the turbo broke down or your fuel system couldn't keep up and your engine would pop. If you are unsure of what this does, and the difference between the two, you need to do some reading. Internal and external is pretty self explanitory. external requires a more intricate downpipe, internal is built into the turbo's hotside, and with an O2 housing, the downpipe is quite simple.
For the downpipe you might have to hack it apart and change the flange, depending on the turbo/O2 housing, or however you decide to mate the downpipe to the turbo it may not work, then you'll probably want an O2 bung on the downpipe for a wideband sensor. I would be more inclined to have one made, or find one that was made for that turbo/manifold.
as far as i know, the piggy back from RRM will not work with 4 larger injectors, you need a reflash, or stand alone for that.
your wastegate is how you control boost, you connect your wastegate actuator to the boost source or the compressor outlet via vacuum line, directly, or through a boost controller, and at whatever boost pressure your wastegate is set for, it will open a valve, bypassing your exhaust gas around the turbine wheel, maintaining relatively constant boost pressure. Without it you would build boost until the turbo broke down or your fuel system couldn't keep up and your engine would pop. If you are unsure of what this does, and the difference between the two, you need to do some reading. Internal and external is pretty self explanitory. external requires a more intricate downpipe, internal is built into the turbo's hotside, and with an O2 housing, the downpipe is quite simple.
For the downpipe you might have to hack it apart and change the flange, depending on the turbo/O2 housing, or however you decide to mate the downpipe to the turbo it may not work, then you'll probably want an O2 bung on the downpipe for a wideband sensor. I would be more inclined to have one made, or find one that was made for that turbo/manifold.
as far as i know, the piggy back from RRM will not work with 4 larger injectors, you need a reflash, or stand alone for that.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6000K...ht_7567wt_1062
I'm about to purchase this, and wanted everyone else's opinion on these ebay projectors. They also already come with HID's.
I'm about to purchase this, and wanted everyone else's opinion on these ebay projectors. They also already come with HID's.
I can't recommend anything, i have no experience in this department. This is all fairly new to me. I knew i needed one of the two, and i went with the reflash. I can tell you that the reflash works, and is a very good option, but i can't compare it to anything else, cause i don't personally know the difference. But i do believe a stand alone is quite expensive. So for me a reflash was more cost effective, and seems to me to be the better option anyway.
I can't recommend anything, i have no experience in this department. This is all fairly new to me. I knew i needed one of the two, and i went with the reflash. I can tell you that the reflash works, and is a very good option, but i can't compare it to anything else, cause i don't personally know the difference. But i do believe a stand alone is quite expensive. So for me a reflash was more cost effective, and seems to me to be the better option anyway.
doesn't the car have a sensor for barometric pressure? It would already be affecting performance if it was a major factor. Besides, you're not at like 10,000 feet are you? the pressure differential to sea level i don't think would be that extreme. I'm sure that could be managed somehow. Just wait for the software, if you're trying to piece together your own turbo kit, it's not going to come together over night, tuning is the last thing you'll need, and it all has to come together at once. But if you're going to shell out the money for everything you need for a turbo build sourcing a spare ECU is a minor cost, plus you could sell the other one to someone who wants to do the same thing and recover your cost.
I keep telling people, Rome wasn't built in a day, most people spend years building their cars up, only people with tons of money at their disposal can just slap **** like that together, and better yet pay someone else to do the work.
I keep telling people, Rome wasn't built in a day, most people spend years building their cars up, only people with tons of money at their disposal can just slap **** like that together, and better yet pay someone else to do the work.
I agree with Crank on this one. A reflash would be the best option if you are going with a turbo.
And if you do no/can not wait for your ECU to be shipped back and forth, finding another ECU would be your best option.
As for the elevation, even the reflashed ecu should have enough leniency in its program for several driving environments, including thinner air due to the higher elevation. That is my 2c, maybe hackish verify that, but you can always ask him personally too.
And if you do no/can not wait for your ECU to be shipped back and forth, finding another ECU would be your best option.
As for the elevation, even the reflashed ecu should have enough leniency in its program for several driving environments, including thinner air due to the higher elevation. That is my 2c, maybe hackish verify that, but you can always ask him personally too.



