Do you know what the max mileage would be to buy one? What about insurance? Sorry for the stupid questions, new driver haha

 

Thanks Cranswick!!!I am very technically and mechanically challenged so I think I'll stick to the simplest of bolt ons

1. urethane mounts, front and back...
This seems pretty involved when I looked it up. I don't have a lot of the tools etc and I barely know what I'm doing so I may just pass on this for now. But I have read these make a world of difference, maybe a shop could pop these on at my next service?

2. Nick's (RalliartN) intake mod
Same kinda thing as above, maybe there is some sort of compromise between this, a CAI and a SRI that even a monkey (me) could install.

3. rear sway bar
The whiteline rear sway bar seems like a great deal! I can handle that one.

4. piggy back or reflash (tune)

I found these 2 items on RRM's site for the ECU, a "timing box" and the piggyback.

http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=448

http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=101

They say they will work together but I would like to keep the cost down so picking one or the other would probably be best for now. I like the timing box idea as it's a simple plug & play device, it seems like it is newer and it's cheaper.

 

I think Ralliart would be a great first car. It's got a little bit if everything,it's fast enough to have fun with but not so fast that you'll get in trouble everytime you floor it. Of course my opinion might be bias as I have 2 cars with the 4g69


I'm not so sure I'd be looking solely at the mileage but more so of the maintainence over the years. Example.... I rather buy a Ralliart with 130k with all maintaince records than one with 90k and no records.

Insurance shouldn't be bad as long as you have a good driver history and don't live in a big city

 

We have the swaybar with reinforced mounts (reinforced mounts are a must.) We have the urethane mounts and intakes. Once you do that, Piggyback and timing controller are pretuned and work in concert with intake and exhaust for sure. We also have the catback for the RA. I think we are the only ones that do but not totally sure it. We use Magnaflow components there. We are by far the ones that have tuned this car and know it better than anyone in the world. I can say that with a straight face because I am told that over and over by customers. Feel free to call me too, and I will gladly talk about the best upgrade path for you, what you want out of the car and of course, your budget. No one has more or has done more for longer. MMNA contracted us to do tuning on this car. I do not think anyone else had manufacturer's blessing to tune and even boost the 04-06 RA! Thanks

ROAD/RACE

 

Yea i guess you can say i have a good driving history... none haha... do you think my insurance would be high? and about how many miles do you think they'll last?

 

If you're not comfortable doing both mounts, just the front mount can be done by a monkey in his driveway...you just need a floor jack and 2 jack stands...and electric impact would be very useful as well, if you don't have the tools see if you can borrow some (co-workers, family, friends etc.)

If RalliartN's intake mod is too involved, and you just want bolt-on go with a cold air intake with a bypass valve to avoid hydrolock...i ran a custom cold air intake temporarily with no splash guards, and i didn't have any problems, i think as long as you don't submerge it, or splash it with A LOT of water then you'd be good, but get a bypass valve for peace of mind, cause whenever it rained i drove like a granny, in fear of taking water into the engine...

sway bar is fairly easy to do...RRM (Rock) and some guys on the board will tell you that reinforced perches are basically manditory, but we'll know for sure when i hit the track this year, cause i'm still using the stock perches, and i'm going to subject my car to some lateral forces that most lancers will never have to endure. But for daily driving, i'll go ahead and say stock perches are fine, though lanzerralliart is going to have something to say about that...

For the price of the piggy back and timing box, you might be better off with a reflash...the piggy back is for fuel, and the timing box is for timing...the reflash does both, for less money, though i'm not 100% sure hackish has a finished base tune for the automatic, i know the automatic turbo tune is in the works still, but for non-turbo i don't know...you might just want to send him an email...

like lanzerralliart said, it really depends if they have proof of maintenance history...i bought mine past the mileage for the first timing belt service, and the original timing belt failed less than a year later...if well maintained, these motors will go beyond 200,000 miles...suspension and steering maintenance, as well as regular tune ups are very important as well, on all cars, so if you're investing in a car be prepared to invest in maintenance...and start collecting some basic tools, cause $90 an hour for labour often increases maintenance costs by up to 80% depending on the parts...

Insurance depends a lot on the area you live in and also driver experience, if you have none, expect to pay a higher premium...when i was younger, many of my friends had their own cars, but were on their parent's insurance policy, until they had a year or two experience before getting their own policy...i didn't have that luxury and i paid big time for it, so it depends on you, the car, where you live and the insurer...get some insurance quotes.

 

I'm just trying to help you and anyone else out in the long run so this doesn't happen .....

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...r-perches.html

 

Q? Would a ams carbon fiber roof will fit 2004 mitsubishi lancer ralliart??

 

Yes now buy it and post up some pics

 

no pics, and who knows how that guy was driving...

sugar coating for sure!!!...i abuse my car, and have the nads to admit it...

The problem is he doesn't know how or when it happened, or at least not admitting it, which is misleading information, because he was probably cornering quite hard on a public road, because he "doesn't track it"...i highly doubt this happened at 35mph...just sayin'...but of course over time, parts of this nature will be stressed and fail, if they are pushed to their limit, time and time again...which i would bet is well above most non-highway speed limits...

 

How do I check my fuel pressure I cant find a schrader anywhere

 

hook a gauge into the fuel line...

 

That is basically it. You can tap it and with a "T" fitting and a gauge you can see it fine.

ROAD/RACE

 

From experience with nitrous I wouldn't butcher the fuel line but instead either a)get an Evo 8-9 fuel rail (20 bucks) and the fitting on the open end for the gauge or b)tap the current fuel rail. Just staying from experience cutting the line for a T isn't the way to go.

 

Well i was hoping there would be a schrader vaulve somewhere but oh well