OK, so don't give me the "look it up" responses because I have and didn't find what I was looking for.

I was in an accident in the Summer time and the Mitsu garage had to replace pretty much my whole front end and a lot of the undercarriage. That was around 25k miles and now have about 33k miles. I wanted to bring my car in for it's 30k but didn't want to be charged for everything if those certain things were replaced when the work was being done on the car and waste money. I am the farthest from a mechanic and have no way of knowing with the naked eye. Do you think the garage would be honest? All the papers are locked in storage while I move so I can't look at those. Thanks

 

Only one way to find out, or just do ur 30K urself its not that much of a biggie is it?

 

what's included in a 30K? I just did my oil, filter, cabin air filter, tire rotation if you can... Check the brakes, rotors, and toss some lube in the door/trunk/hood hinges just for kicks. No belts need to be replaced either.

Remember the dealership always does "more than necessary" half the time. Like we don't have to do our waterpump at 60K... we can do it at 100K and such.

 

This is incorrect... You have to replace the Serpentine Belt at 30k..

 

There's not a whole lot involved with the 30k service other that the usual inspections and fluid changes. You can change the serp belt if needed (but I believe that's listed as a 60k item on our engine.) The only other thing that comes to mind, and wouldn't have been touched in your body repair, is checking the valve lash.

 

Valve lash and tranny fluid at 30k, aside from the obvious.

 

thanks for your help guys

 

Best to change the water pump when you're already in there changing the timing belt. It's up to you to decide to change the pump every timing belt change, or every other. I'll be doing mine every other, as I did with my DSMs.

 

Indeed, I didn't change mine, but will be changing it at 120k, possibly the oil pump, too, not sure about that one yet.

 

Timing belts are usually 60-120k depending on belt condition.....same with serp. belt. Your should change engine about every 5k unless running Amsoil then about 15-25k if using EA filter.... transmission fluid should be from 60-100k depending on if it is dark or how hard you drive it....Autos are about that......I recommend changing manual trans fluid around 60k because they get hotter then autos and shorten the oils life alittle.....unless running good synthetic. I would also recommend swapping tires every 5-10k so you get the most even wear out of your tires.....thats just me..... I have about 80k on my car and everything is still perfect.....and i beat the hell out of my car...

 

i don't recommend running much over 30k with the tranny fluid, and neither does mitsu, on the manual. I don't know about the auto, but the manual tranny leaves a lot to be desired and you can most certainly tell the difference after a change, synthetic or otherwise.

before you make the determination on how long to use engine oil you should read up on the testing otter and e2l have had done and should consider spending the money for yourself as well.

on the timing belt: mitsu says every 60k but every 100k within some states. I don't remember the reason there were two timelines but IIRC it had something to do with warranty semantics. if you drive the crap out of your car you would be better to look at the timing belt at 60k.

 

I think Cali has a stipulation in their car economy laws regarding certain maintenence intervals. All cars sold there with timing belts must last 100k between changes.

Also, +1 on the trans fluid every 30k. Our synchros are weak, keep on top of that fluid and use the good stuff.

 

I went 80k and the synchros and bearings were perfect.......but i was also using Amsoil.....a much better product then anything out there for our cars......from what i have found....the dealer also uses lower grade oil for the transmissions.....I have found that 30k is safe for sever usage.....usuing a better quality oil will enhance life....longevity of the product and your transmission. I have been building trannys for about 10 years now.....I find that people that go way over with lower quality oil while abusing your transmission will lead to failure. Our synchros really aren't that weak....It is stronger then most of our compition.

 

is that in your experience or in your opinion, because the common census seems to point towards crappy tranny parts. lot's of grinding, lockout, clunking. now that's not to say some people don't do it to themselves, but the vast majority of evidence points to our trannys blowing ***. every other stick I have driven shifted ten times smoother and much easier than my RA has since day 1.