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Old Mar 24, 2009, 01:18 PM
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Response to Bolt-Ons

So I was kind of bored today and I was looking around the forums and came across one of the treads about dynos and bolt-ons when it comes to lancers.

I was reading up in the basic lancer section where the engine is the 4G94 and they were talking about how poorly the lancer responded to those types of mods. I was just curious about whether or not the 4G69 engine has been greatly improved in order to be more positive when it comes to responding to bolt-on modifications or if it futile and really won't make much of a difference?

What are people's opinions on this?
Old Mar 24, 2009, 01:37 PM
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The 4G69 shows better improvements than the 4G94, but it still only gives you so much. More than anything, it changes how the car feels and where the powerband is. From personal experience, an intake, downpipe, ported IM, and a piggyback will give you a noticable power gain in the higher revs, but won't really do much for the low end torque.
Old Mar 24, 2009, 04:32 PM
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IMO my car feels like it has a pretty decent amount of torque. It could just be my feeling but I noticed a nicer low end pull with RRM's underdrive pulley and when I added RRM's solid motor mounts it feels like it has that much more torque and power getting sent to the wheels rather than being lost in engine movement. I don't know if anyone has a dyno sheet or specs on a stock RA but this was mine from when I only had a CAI and UDP...


I'm not sure why the torque numbers on the right read 145 because if you look at the curve it's highest point is equal to the hp's highest point which was 155.

Last edited by Ralli04; Mar 24, 2009 at 04:35 PM.
Old Mar 26, 2009, 08:18 PM
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^ hey that's great, now I know what first mod's im gettin hah. but actually I think i'll be getting a short ram intake instead. easier to install, less prone to sucking in water, has more 'sweet' factor.
Old Mar 27, 2009, 06:56 AM
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plus the short ram gives you better throttle response

If you want to change the power, go forced induction, If you just want to change the way the car feels and make it more responsive, bolt-ons are nice.

I like my car and the fuel economy it has so I'm just going with bolt-ons that suit my desire as I don't see how I could use 260 hp right now

Some professional drivers will actually say that the limit for a good FF car is around 200bhp
Old Mar 27, 2009, 09:25 AM
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oh, i didnt see anyone mention anything about an exhaust. doesnt make much difference?
Old Mar 27, 2009, 06:34 PM
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SRI are a waste of money go with a CAI
Old Mar 27, 2009, 08:08 PM
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my car threw a code when i installed my CAI. It was running too lean. Good thing it came in 2 pieces to convert to SRI. Doesn't sound as good, but doesn't throw a SEL
Old Mar 28, 2009, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by omgivec
SRI are a waste of money go with a CAI
this really depends on what you are looking for.
If it is the +1 number on that dyno sheet you'll never go take, yes CAI is better

for real, the CAI will give you more HP at high end power band but you will loose in throttle response and risk hydroleak

the sri will not yell much difference in numbers of hp or torque but will give you a bit better throttle response and no chances of hydrolock
If you make yourself a good heat shield and air source it will actually be the best of both world.

I use my car as a daily driver and 3 times a year for lapping, the courses I run on don't give me much chance to use the benefits of the CAI but all the corners give me great oportunity to use the added throthle response and I might make some type of hood vent to get colder air in there one day.
Old Mar 29, 2009, 09:21 AM
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It is hard to get reliable numbers with a SRI versus a CAI. When you're doing 30mph the intake temps on the 2 are just about the same because of all the airflow under the hood. On the dyno the heat soak can make a huge difference so it's hard to compare.

Having spent some time looking at the calibration it looks like the factory pulls timing aggressively when the car starts reaching the "limit" of normal operating airflows. In other words their tune tries hard to prevent you from making more power than stock.

Another interesting point is that there is a fair bit of difference between the tune on the '04 and '05. The 1860A070 ECU is running 1-2 degrees more advance in some places as compared to the MN156916 ECU. I've successfully run the newer map on the older ECU so I believe it was just a tuning update.

I've been pretty busy this past week building an office so unfortunately the NA reflash hasn't had any work done to it yet. That must explain why I'm in at work on Sunday
Old Jun 12, 2009, 11:30 PM
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sorry to bump an old thread but I had this quesiton lingering in the back of my mind for quite a while

is it possible to reach 200hp with the 4g69 without going turbo?

mods are in the sig and future plans are cam and p/p intake manifold from rrm as im waiting on my order for my piggyback.... with those 3 to finish off my engine... with a tune is it possible to reach 200hp? that is my goal for the car to at least get that much
Old Jun 13, 2009, 12:44 AM
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brian at RRM told me "200+" whp is possible with all possible bolt ons. but with hackish on here making reflashes possible its prob gunna be more hp possible
Old Jun 13, 2009, 07:03 AM
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of course its possible. SSP is running like 12.7 in his car all motor. not to mention 200whp all motor isnt that hard of a goal. getting 300whp will be the tough part.

you gotta think the only stuff we have aftermarket wise is the simple bolt on's. If you REALLY want to get down and dirty and make some power on your motor without a turbo, you can do alot of aggresive and custom stuff. Like individual throttle bodies, high compression pistons, custom and aggresive camshaft. Theres alot of things you can do to reach 200whp.
Old Jun 14, 2009, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hackish
It is hard to get reliable numbers with a SRI versus a CAI. When you're doing 30mph the intake temps on the 2 are just about the same because of all the airflow under the hood. On the dyno the heat soak can make a huge difference so it's hard to compare.

Having spent some time looking at the calibration it looks like the factory pulls timing aggressively when the car starts reaching the "limit" of normal operating airflows. In other words their tune tries hard to prevent you from making more power than stock.

Another interesting point is that there is a fair bit of difference between the tune on the '04 and '05. The 1860A070 ECU is running 1-2 degrees more advance in some places as compared to the MN156916 ECU. I've successfully run the newer map on the older ECU so I believe it was just a tuning update.

I've been pretty busy this past week building an office so unfortunately the NA reflash hasn't had any work done to it yet. That must explain why I'm in at work on Sunday
Wait, I got lost...Which ECU has the more advanced/aggressive timing, the 04 or the 05? I would only guess the 06´s have the same tune as the 05´s?
Old Jun 14, 2009, 08:28 AM
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Might be a bit harder on an automatic Raikiri.
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