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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:01 AM
  #76  
CrAnSwIcK's Avatar
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is the eclipse flywheel tin back? like is it fairly thin where it bolts to the crank? lol cause stock bolts are not very long, i'm not even sure how deep the threads are. I wonder if it would hurt to skip the spacers?

Let us know.

GDS, i have the stage 1 ACT, but i will be using Mitsu throw out bearing, hoping for the best.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #77  
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Well I see no reason why it wouldnt be fine with out that lil flexplate or whatever nut that still doesnt quite get up in there like it needs to. The only difference i between the stock and the cm is the area the flywheel bolts up is thin and pretty recest where as cms is about a quarter inch thicker. That and the very noticable weight difference
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Old May 9, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #78  
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The best bolts I'm finding around here are grade 8. Will that hold up well enough? Ima keep looking anyway but id like to know
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Old May 9, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #79  
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Grade 8 are the strongest/best commercial bolts - use those.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 12:56 PM
  #80  
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agreed, you'd be hard up finding a higher grade at any fastener retailer...did you check if ARP or some place like that makes the bolts?
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Old May 9, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #81  
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well arp has nothing that i can find and i have found no grade 8's that size i need in stores, but they all say they test at 150,000 psi and thats what the high performance series flywheel bolts arp uses test at so ill be content with orielly's grade 8's
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Old May 9, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #82  
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Grade 8 bolts are all going to be SAE sizes, in other words, not what you're looking for. Look for class 10.9 metric bolts, they are the metric equivalent of SAE grade 8. They should say 10.9 right on the heads. If you can't find any locally, look on Fastenal.com for class 10.9 hex head cap screws, in whatever thread pitch you need. I don't have one in front of me, or I'd check it and tell you. It's either going to be M12x1.5 or M12x1.75. Stock length is 15.5mm, so you should look for 20mm length, to make up that extra 1/4". They're $1-2 each, depending on thread pitch.
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Old May 10, 2011 | 05:20 AM
  #83  
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Thx for the heads up. I'll check it all tonight wheni get home
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Old May 13, 2011 | 05:50 AM
  #84  
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I got my bolts class 10.9 and I realized a lot I wasn't the only one who didn't know that grade 8 and class 10.9 were different ( standard vs. Metric) so double check were ever you have to get em. Oreillys had to order them but the smallest they could get 25mm instead of 20 so some grinding may be in order. The bolts are m12 .1.25x25mm class 10.9
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Old May 13, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #85  
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I still can't get my stupid tranny apart can @ome one tell me how the shifter linkage comes off and the trick ti getting that damn snap ring
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Old May 13, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #86  
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Your trying to split it?
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Old May 14, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #87  
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Yeah gotta replace input shaft bearings
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Old May 14, 2011 | 10:37 AM
  #88  
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If you havent done it then i would advise a tranny expert. I knew it was out of my knowledge to do so.
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Old May 15, 2011 | 04:05 PM
  #89  
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From: bg, KY
Im getting a rep manual from mitsu and dad has bud who teaches auto mechanics and bg tech nearby so were all three gonna get into it
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Old May 18, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #90  
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my dad cracked the damn gear housing but got it apart. hes having the guy he was with look into taking it to a machine shop. although i really would almost rather have a a new tranny just so i know its all intact, i dont have to put it back together and because he said i need counter shaft bearings and some other 2 bearings that he isnt sure what it is (he said axel something or differential bearings). i have 2 input shaft bearings now i need 4 more and i dunno what 2 are. i havent seen the tranny since he took it and i dont have access else id look but does anyone know what he could be talking about with those bearings?
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