Heliart

so my Ralliart is at 4500 miles and I'm taking it to the dealership for its first oil change, just curious though does the Ralliart use synthetic oil? not that I dont trust the dealer that they know what they're doing but I want to mention it just in case if the Ralliart really only takes synthetic oil....thanks

bmguser

have you looked in the owners manual?

Heliart

I know it's in there and I'm straight up telling you im too lazy to look.

GiLizILL

iTrader: (5)

5w-30 non syn

lancerdave86

CORRECT> my dealer oil change only cost me ten bucks! sweet!

Trumpfan

IMHO, if your going to spend all this money on a new car, why wouldn't you tell them to go full syn on your first oil change? if not for the extra protection, but for better cold starting as well?

dklau33

Doesn't the Evo X use Mobil 1 Synthethic straight from the factory? Wouldn't the Ralliart be the same?

DatRAzn

iTrader: (2)

I had a dealer tell me it was synthetic...they could've just wanted to shaft me for my money though.

But I still opted for synthetic when I went in for my oil changes though. Makes me feel a little comfortable with these Michigan winters around here... (Didn't do it at dealer because 1] They were out of synth. oil. 2] They wanted to charge me 85$. )

98GSXtreme07

Yea, I never understood why you can go to Walmart and get Mobil 1 Synthetic for $26 and a filter for $4 ($30 oil change) and than also for some regular GTX oil and filter it costs you like $26 something yet at shops when you go its $32.XX for a regular oil change and than $70+ for a synthetic.

Sorry just like the smiley's.

GiLizILL

iTrader: (5)

once you get syn. you gotta stay with syn...thats gets expensive

Trumpfan

It's not so expensive if you change it yourself, I get Amsoil from a guy at work at his cost, so It's about the same cost as dino oil.

You can mix dino and syn if the spec is the same (not the weight) the API spec, no problems.

*edit--I'm not going to trying to start a syn vs dino oil war so I'll end that right now. I was just saying that if you spend a whack of cash on a shiny new car why not baby it.

98GSXtreme07

Yep, when I started to have to use synthetic, that's when I started doing my own oil changes.

madcows

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

"Despite their name, most synthetic derived motor oils (ie Mobil 1, Castrol Formula RS etc ) are actually derived from mineral oils - they are mostly Polyalphaolifins and these come from the purest part of the mineral oil refraction process, the gas. PAO oils will mix with normal mineral oils which means Joe public can add synthetic to his mineral, or mineral to his synthetic without his car engine seizing up (although I've heard Mobil 1 is actually made by reformulating ethanol)."

"Pure synthetic oils (polyalkyleneglycol) are the types used almost exclusively within the industrial sector in polyglycol gearbox oils for heavily loaded gearboxes. These are typically concocted by intelligent blokes in white lab coats. These chaps break apart the molecules that make up a variety of substances, like vegetable and animal oils, and then recombine the individual atoms that make up those molecules to build new, synthetic molecules. This process allows the chemists to actually "fine tune" the molecules as they build them. Clever stuff. But Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils."

"There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)"


I personally would go with a full synthetic in any turbo, or high performance engine. It can take more stress from heat than conventional oils, and this is really something you want. Also, don't get cheap-o filters like FRAM. Either go with OEM, ac delco, or synlube (http://www.synlube.com/prod06.htm).

Oil Doc

iTrader: (34)

Not to mention less wear on internal moving parts, cooler oil temps, better fuel mileage and more HP.

Something has to pay for the lights, telephone, rent, Insurance, salaries Etc... $32.00 is downright cheap... 70 for a Synthetic.... Depends on the Synthetic I guess.. I sure wouldn't pay that for Mobil 1 or Castrol.

That is pure Myth....

Although most Synthetics will mix with Petroleum oils, it is unwise to do so except in an emergency. Just as you shouldn't mix Brands or weights even between Synthetics or Petroleum oils. the additive packs may not be totally compatible.

I agree with why not run a synthetic. It is in everything I have from my trucks and cars to my MotorCycle and even my Lawn Mowers and 2 cycle equipment. The benefits outweigh the price.

The Polyglycol oils will not mix with other synthetics either. Even small traces of Polyglycol and other oils can be disasterous virtually forming rubber like *****.

It should be noted that Polyglycols are used mainly in European Industrial Gearboxes and Chaincases.

Some people switch to conventional or Synthetic over the Polyglycol but an Isopropyl was is necessary before changing.

Doc

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

its just good practice to use synthetic, better MPG, les heat in the engine, the engine likes synthetic better.

and your peace of mind knowing you ave synthetic in there, i would demand the dealer nothing less than synthetic, most likely they have a deal with castrol and they use that. however u want AMSOIL in that 4B11 of yours