09 Ralliart Oil Change
Feb 1, 2009, 09:12 AM
#62
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So long as you stick with synthetic oils, in a warmer climate you shouldn't notice any difference at all between 0w30, 5w30, and 10w30, except maybe on the coldest days of winter, when 5w30 (and 0w30) might be better than 10w30 at starting. For high-quality synthetics, the number after the w is all that matters for running conditions, including warm-weather starts. Unless you really enjoy extra maintenance, that number should match the manufacturer's specs. The number before the w is really only relevant to cold-weather starts, where lower is better.
[note that the above is not true for almost all low-quality synthetics, semi-synthetics, and non-synthetic oils]
[note that the above is not true for almost all low-quality synthetics, semi-synthetics, and non-synthetic oils]
Last edited by aestival; Feb 1, 2009 at 09:14 AM.
Feb 2, 2009, 11:39 AM
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Feb 2, 2009, 11:50 AM
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Feb 2, 2009, 02:00 PM
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Just go to your dealer. It's either an 072 or 116.. The normal Lancer uses the 072 and the EVO uses 116s.. and they both fit anyway.
With the key/switch in the OFF position, press "INFO" until the wrench icon comes up. Then press and hold "INFO" until the wrench blinks and the word "CLEAR" appears on the gauge cluster screen.
With the key/switch in the OFF position, press "INFO" until the wrench icon comes up. Then press and hold "INFO" until the wrench blinks and the word "CLEAR" appears on the gauge cluster screen.
Jan 26, 2013, 03:06 PM
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Not to mention less wear on internal moving parts, cooler oil temps, better fuel mileage and more HP.
Something has to pay for the lights, telephone, rent, Insurance, salaries Etc... $32.00 is downright cheap... 70 for a Synthetic.... Depends on the Synthetic I guess.. I sure wouldn't pay that for Mobil 1 or Castrol.
That is pure Myth....
Although most Synthetics will mix with Petroleum oils, it is unwise to do so except in an emergency. Just as you shouldn't mix Brands or weights even between Synthetics or Petroleum oils. the additive packs may not be totally compatible.
I agree with why not run a synthetic. It is in everything I have from my trucks and cars to my MotorCycle and even my Lawn Mowers and 2 cycle equipment. The benefits outweigh the price.
The Polyglycol oils will not mix with other synthetics either. Even small traces of Polyglycol and other oils can be disasterous virtually forming rubber like *****.
It should be noted that Polyglycols are used mainly in European Industrial Gearboxes and Chaincases.
Some people switch to conventional or Synthetic over the Polyglycol but an Isopropyl was is necessary before changing.
Doc
Something has to pay for the lights, telephone, rent, Insurance, salaries Etc... $32.00 is downright cheap... 70 for a Synthetic.... Depends on the Synthetic I guess.. I sure wouldn't pay that for Mobil 1 or Castrol.
That is pure Myth....
Although most Synthetics will mix with Petroleum oils, it is unwise to do so except in an emergency. Just as you shouldn't mix Brands or weights even between Synthetics or Petroleum oils. the additive packs may not be totally compatible.
I agree with why not run a synthetic. It is in everything I have from my trucks and cars to my MotorCycle and even my Lawn Mowers and 2 cycle equipment. The benefits outweigh the price.
The Polyglycol oils will not mix with other synthetics either. Even small traces of Polyglycol and other oils can be disasterous virtually forming rubber like *****.
It should be noted that Polyglycols are used mainly in European Industrial Gearboxes and Chaincases.
Some people switch to conventional or Synthetic over the Polyglycol but an Isopropyl was is necessary before changing.
Doc
Last edited by wemay; Feb 11, 2013 at 07:59 PM.
Jan 26, 2013, 05:34 PM
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Jan 27, 2013, 09:14 AM
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No bold claim, check the various UOA's on BITOG (reliable). Clear concise results. This is not another oil war here just stating what the labs are finding as I do not make claims based on emotion. Trust me, I am not an Amsoil hater either, others have just closed the gap.
Last edited by wemay; Jan 27, 2013 at 11:00 AM.
Feb 8, 2013, 11:11 AM
#74
If your talking to someone autozone or similar parts store for an oil filter, just tell them you have an Evo 10, it uses the same filter. I buy mine at the dealer as the price is about the same along with a few crush washers.
Also If anyone gets those free-oil change coupons from Mitsubishi ( I seem to get them annualy), they will only use conventional oil. I had to pay the difference in price which ended up costing more than doing it myself. I only did this once to "check in" and get the free diagnostics done and keep
happy while i still have a warranty.
Also If anyone gets those free-oil change coupons from Mitsubishi ( I seem to get them annualy), they will only use conventional oil. I had to pay the difference in price which ended up costing more than doing it myself. I only did this once to "check in" and get the free diagnostics done and keep
happy while i still have a warranty.
Feb 8, 2013, 11:33 AM
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I slapped on a Purolator Pureone pl14459, but I had to order online. I've found the Napa Gold/Wix to be equivalent and should be able to buy at Napa Auto (and they sell AMS oil right on the shelf!)
I'm running Catrol SPT Euro Car 0w30 currently since temps at night are dropping to around 30 - 40 degrees. Not super cold, but cold enough. Summer I'll run 5w30, might run Rotella T6 Syth 5w40 in the summer - 42 mile commute + 100 degree weather. Though the FMIC should keep it cooler than my TMIC on my Subaru (loves the Rotella).
As aestival said the number before the w is for oil weight start temp 0 being coldest, 5 has a large range from cold to hot with 10+ being desert heat. the letter after the w obviously is the operating temp weight.
For the person saying they put in Mobil 1, if it's the regular Mobil 1 5w30 syth that stuff will shear to 20 weight after a short drive, not meeting the min spec. I'd go with pretty much anything else name brand, Castrol, Penn, Rotella. I know people have run Mobil for a loooong time with no issues, but I like a bit of peace of mind.
Also I used to run Mobil and I believe the dealer put Mobil in before I bought the car. I changed the oil after about a week, black and ran out like water. My Castrol with 1300 miles on it still looks pretty fresh, like a dark honey. And yes I know color of oil doesn't mean it's not working, but pitch black pouring like water, vs some viscosity is an issue.
I'm running Catrol SPT Euro Car 0w30 currently since temps at night are dropping to around 30 - 40 degrees. Not super cold, but cold enough. Summer I'll run 5w30, might run Rotella T6 Syth 5w40 in the summer - 42 mile commute + 100 degree weather. Though the FMIC should keep it cooler than my TMIC on my Subaru (loves the Rotella).
As aestival said the number before the w is for oil weight start temp 0 being coldest, 5 has a large range from cold to hot with 10+ being desert heat. the letter after the w obviously is the operating temp weight.
For the person saying they put in Mobil 1, if it's the regular Mobil 1 5w30 syth that stuff will shear to 20 weight after a short drive, not meeting the min spec. I'd go with pretty much anything else name brand, Castrol, Penn, Rotella. I know people have run Mobil for a loooong time with no issues, but I like a bit of peace of mind.
Also I used to run Mobil and I believe the dealer put Mobil in before I bought the car. I changed the oil after about a week, black and ran out like water. My Castrol with 1300 miles on it still looks pretty fresh, like a dark honey. And yes I know color of oil doesn't mean it's not working, but pitch black pouring like water, vs some viscosity is an issue.
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