09 Ralliart Oil Change
Jan 15, 2009, 11:41 AM
#31
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ok so does anyone else think that 600 miles is way too soon for the oil change? were you breakin it in hard or what? IM at 600 and want to change it. the oil just looks like dirty water.
Jan 15, 2009, 12:06 PM
#33
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Got the oil changed....went with full synthetic (mobile 1) $67 out the door....pretty darn expensive and I might have to start doing oil changes myself.....btw, shoulda changed the oil a bit sooner (at 4352 miles, dashboard says 700 miles to go), the dealer people showed me the oil and it was super dark brown....so those of you with less mileage might wanna do yours at around 2000 miles. Btw how do you reset the maintenance mileage indicator on the display?
How does the car feel? Is it any different. Do you feel like there is a bit more power, does the gas mileage improve a bit. I am at 3500 Kms and will be changing my oil when I hit 4500- 5000 K's ( 3000 Miles) I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of the 5w20 Mineral oil thats in there and going to the full Synthetic. Mobil 1
Jan 15, 2009, 01:08 PM
#34
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How does the car feel? Is it any different. Do you feel like there is a bit more power, does the gas mileage improve a bit. I am at 3500 Kms and will be changing my oil when I hit 4500- 5000 K's ( 3000 Miles) I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of the 5w20 Mineral oil thats in there and going to the full Synthetic. Mobil 1
Jan 15, 2009, 01:20 PM
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In fact, during the break in, it might be recommended. On my bikes, for example, I do the first oil change at 1000km, the next at 5000, and at 10,000km, then every 10K after that (service interval is 12,000km). I use a full synthetic, high-grade oil (either Motul or Elf).
For the car...well, I'll just get the dealer to change the oil at the intervals with synthetic.
Jan 15, 2009, 01:58 PM
#37
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From my understanding once you go syn..you can't go back with normal crap oil...but with the RA..you should just use syn anyhow.. i just got my first oil changed today.. and it came out like 60 bucks or so... from now on ima change it myself... anyone know what type of filter it is? i went to o'reileys and they don't have a clue what filter it is...they gave me a wrong one :\
Jan 15, 2009, 02:21 PM
#38
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Even on my MotorCycle, I do Oil Analysis... $8000.00 for an engine, $23.55 for Analysis... Cheap Insurance
3000-5000 on a Turbo Depending on the oil you use and conditions.
Jan 15, 2009, 02:23 PM
#39
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Oil Analysis? $8000.00 for an engine? Care to elaborate?
Jan 15, 2009, 03:14 PM
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If you look at this thread I started https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/20...rocedures.html and follow the link in the first post, the writer recommends the first oil change to be even sooner than 600 miles!
Jan 15, 2009, 03:43 PM
#42
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It is Impossible to tell if you have something going wrong in an engine without using Oil Analysis. Used properly it is an Instrument just the same as having Blood Work performed, as oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. Just as the oil filter is the Kidney that keeps it clean.
My first Analysis on my bike showed high Silica and Elevated wear metals. Without using Analysis and just changing oil, how would I have known that I am virtually sanding my engine to death due to an air filter ? Next analysis with a different air filter showed 1/10th the wear metals... So I was wearing my engine out faster.
If you have a rod or main bearing wearing, it may be detected and you can save money by fixing it before you puke it. Cam bearings, whatever... Can be fixed before a Catostrophic Failure thus saving $$
An engine for my Bike is $8000.00.... The oil analysis for $22.55 showed me there was a problem that I could fix before it became costly.... Cheap Insurance..
The only problem I have with doing an oil change too soon is that most people will just put any oil back in and not consider the make-up of the oil. After all, oil is oil right ? WRONG.... I would put an oil in that has a High ZDDP amount in to aid inwear protection especially in the cam area even though with roller cams it is not as essential as it use to be.
That is why I am recommending the AMSOIL Dominator oils more and more. These oils are "Intended for Off-Road Use" due to the High ZDDP Levels in them which are additives to protect against wear.
Doc
My first Analysis on my bike showed high Silica and Elevated wear metals. Without using Analysis and just changing oil, how would I have known that I am virtually sanding my engine to death due to an air filter ? Next analysis with a different air filter showed 1/10th the wear metals... So I was wearing my engine out faster.
If you have a rod or main bearing wearing, it may be detected and you can save money by fixing it before you puke it. Cam bearings, whatever... Can be fixed before a Catostrophic Failure thus saving $$
An engine for my Bike is $8000.00.... The oil analysis for $22.55 showed me there was a problem that I could fix before it became costly.... Cheap Insurance..
I'm with oil doc (and i'm sure he knows a lot more than me). First oil change, you should have no problems changing it right now.
If you look at this thread I started https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/20...rocedures.html and follow the link in the first post, the writer recommends the first oil change to be even sooner than 600 miles!
If you look at this thread I started https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/20...rocedures.html and follow the link in the first post, the writer recommends the first oil change to be even sooner than 600 miles!
That is why I am recommending the AMSOIL Dominator oils more and more. These oils are "Intended for Off-Road Use" due to the High ZDDP Levels in them which are additives to protect against wear.
Doc
Jan 15, 2009, 04:35 PM
#43
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forget that dude.. 500 miles.. yeah its time to change the oill..the oil they had in there was crap.. mine was pure black and i waited like 2000 miles for it.. ushould always change ur oil after the break in period anyhow.. i just havn't came around time for it.. but yeah do it...GO SYN ftw!
Jan 16, 2009, 06:26 AM
#44
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How does the car feel? Is it any different. Do you feel like there is a bit more power, does the gas mileage improve a bit. I am at 3500 Kms and will be changing my oil when I hit 4500- 5000 K's ( 3000 Miles) I'm seriously thinking of getting rid of the 5w20 Mineral oil thats in there and going to the full Synthetic. Mobil 1
Jan 16, 2009, 08:44 AM
#45
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It is Impossible to tell if you have something going wrong in an engine without using Oil Analysis. Used properly it is an Instrument just the same as having Blood Work performed, as oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. Just as the oil filter is the Kidney that keeps it clean.
My first Analysis on my bike showed high Silica and Elevated wear metals. Without using Analysis and just changing oil, how would I have known that I am virtually sanding my engine to death due to an air filter ? Next analysis with a different air filter showed 1/10th the wear metals... So I was wearing my engine out faster.
If you have a rod or main bearing wearing, it may be detected and you can save money by fixing it before you puke it. Cam bearings, whatever... Can be fixed before a Catostrophic Failure thus saving $$
An engine for my Bike is $8000.00.... The oil analysis for $22.55 showed me there was a problem that I could fix before it became costly.... Cheap Insurance..
The only problem I have with doing an oil change too soon is that most people will just put any oil back in and not consider the make-up of the oil. After all, oil is oil right ? WRONG.... I would put an oil in that has a High ZDDP amount in to aid inwear protection especially in the cam area even though with roller cams it is not as essential as it use to be.
That is why I am recommending the AMSOIL Dominator oils more and more. These oils are "Intended for Off-Road Use" due to the High ZDDP Levels in them which are additives to protect against wear.
Doc
My first Analysis on my bike showed high Silica and Elevated wear metals. Without using Analysis and just changing oil, how would I have known that I am virtually sanding my engine to death due to an air filter ? Next analysis with a different air filter showed 1/10th the wear metals... So I was wearing my engine out faster.
If you have a rod or main bearing wearing, it may be detected and you can save money by fixing it before you puke it. Cam bearings, whatever... Can be fixed before a Catostrophic Failure thus saving $$
An engine for my Bike is $8000.00.... The oil analysis for $22.55 showed me there was a problem that I could fix before it became costly.... Cheap Insurance..
The only problem I have with doing an oil change too soon is that most people will just put any oil back in and not consider the make-up of the oil. After all, oil is oil right ? WRONG.... I would put an oil in that has a High ZDDP amount in to aid inwear protection especially in the cam area even though with roller cams it is not as essential as it use to be.
That is why I am recommending the AMSOIL Dominator oils more and more. These oils are "Intended for Off-Road Use" due to the High ZDDP Levels in them which are additives to protect against wear.
Doc
I'll be sure to check out the dominator oil. I use Amsoil in my bike, and my car (and that's just a lease! But, I don't pay a cent.. hehe.. Ahh the joys of knowing people at lube shops). If I owned an R/A, it would use nothing else.