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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 06:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by captobvious75
hmmm question then... whats the difference between park and neutral in these trannys?
The exact same thing as an automatic transmission. Park is locking the wheels where neutral is letting them move freely.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by zx-319
The exact same thing as an automatic transmission. Park is locking the wheels where neutral is letting them move freely.
Can you explain the technique better then me buddy? Your the one that showed it to me
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:08 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Rocky_RA
Can you explain the technique better then me buddy? Your the one that showed it to me
Hum, I can try.

Just push and release the throttle really fast like 3 or 4 times. You'll see the RPM rising up to around 3200 RPM. Once it get to the desired RPM, push it and keep it.

When you do this, the car is not perfectly immobile, but it doesn't move enough to trigger a false start a the strip.

When you use the brake method, you clearly feel the clutch being engaged but slipping. At least this is what we've seen in Rocky's car when he shown me how he used to do it.

The tapping method requires more practice because it's a matter of timing too. If you tap too slow, the clutch will engage and you car will start accelerating too early. And when you get to the desired RPM, you need to be quick to go WOT otherwise, the RPM will drop below boost "trigger".

I never logged how much boost (if any) was built up using this method, but at least it allows you to launch at a good RPM without putting too much stress on the components.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:41 AM
  #34  
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neutral has no parking pawl engaged so the car will roll freely. also, you cannot remove the key/completely turn the car off in neutral
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by zx-319
Hum, I can try.

Just push and release the throttle really fast like 3 or 4 times. You'll see the RPM rising up to around 3200 RPM. Once it get to the desired RPM, push it and keep it.

When you do this, the car is not perfectly immobile, but it doesn't move enough to trigger a false start a the strip.

When you use the brake method, you clearly feel the clutch being engaged but slipping. At least this is what we've seen in Rocky's car when he shown me how he used to do it.

The tapping method requires more practice because it's a matter of timing too. If you tap too slow, the clutch will engage and you car will start accelerating too early. And when you get to the desired RPM, you need to be quick to go WOT otherwise, the RPM will drop below boost "trigger".

I never logged how much boost (if any) was built up using this method, but at least it allows you to launch at a good RPM without putting too much stress on the components.

thats funny, because i dont feel the clutch moving at all.

What you do feel is the boost build, and power actually being used off the line instead of rpms.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:00 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Here is a log in 1st gear taking off from 0 mph



Notice the initial slip in 1st (OddClutch), which is the clutch feathering, then the slip goes back down to zero as the speed starts going up. Also notice the ClutchPressure increase after initial feathering...

Notice *both* clutch packs registering a bit of slip when the car is stopped at 0 mph with no TPS input. That is basically the clutches "freewheeling" and not engaged.

good info.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:44 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Westbound&down
thats funny, because i dont feel the clutch moving at all.

What you do feel is the boost build, and power actually being used off the line instead of rpms.
We'd have to do it again, I can hardly remember how it was exactly. But we both agreed that the car was trying to move. If I remember well it was as if the car was "bending". Anyway, I'm not the car launch kind of person... And I don't feel like reproducing something I think is harming my car...

For sure, if you want the best acceleration and your method gives it, go for it. Anyway, the clutch packs ARE replaceable. Also, clutch pack are built to endure much more slip than traditionnal clutches.

Just to make sure we understand each other, the slipping I am talking about was happening with full brake pressure, so the car wasn't moving so we were not feeling the pressure build up.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #38  
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Just wondering does a ... okay people prepare yourselves a controversial term is going to mentioned next

... Sprint booster effect this launch by lurching the car more than on ones not equiped?
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RADriver
Just wondering does a ... okay people prepare yourselves a controversial term is going to mentioned next

... Sprint booster effect this launch by lurching the car more than on ones not equiped?
oh NO YOU DIDNT
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by zx-319
Hum, I can try.

Just push and release the throttle really fast like 3 or 4 times. You'll see the RPM rising up to around 3200 RPM. Once it get to the desired RPM, push it and keep it.

When you do this, the car is not perfectly immobile, but it doesn't move enough to trigger a false start a the strip.

When you use the brake method, you clearly feel the clutch being engaged but slipping. At least this is what we've seen in Rocky's car when he shown me how he used to do it.

The tapping method requires more practice because it's a matter of timing too. If you tap too slow, the clutch will engage and you car will start accelerating too early. And when you get to the desired RPM, you need to be quick to go WOT otherwise, the RPM will drop below boost "trigger".

I never logged how much boost (if any) was built up using this method, but at least it allows you to launch at a good RPM without putting too much stress on the components.
But I really don't understand something.

My RA if I'm completely stop no matter in what setting I'm (manual, ASC off, Sport, etc) with the brake pedal pressed once I release it the clutch engages and the car goes forward the same way a regular automatic does.


Are you missing something else?
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 02:38 PM
  #41  
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ok let me explain to u since sum of these ppl have no clue put the car in sport mode first u will see a better launch out of the car ...then hold the brake to about 3000 rpm then let off brake and slam the gas best shifting wise would be ur paddles ..they shift faster the the shifter........trust me i know iver raced everything u can throw at me even sti ..and i still walk on them but remember u cant hold the rpm to long cause ur light will come on for you trans overheat and it will lock it so u cant build the power back up ......trust me i know all about this car
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by racergirl6756
ok let me explain to u since sum of these ppl have no clue put the car in sport mode first u will see a better launch out of the car ...then hold the brake to about 3000 rpm then let off brake and slam the gas best shifting wise would be ur paddles ..they shift faster the the shifter........trust me i know iver raced everything u can throw at me even sti ..and i still walk on them but remember u cant hold the rpm to long cause ur light will come on for you trans overheat and it will lock it so u cant build the power back up ......trust me i know all about this car

there is a whole lot of wrong in this.

Everyone and their dog knows to be in sport with asc off.

Paddles are slower then the shifter for racing purposes. Ive done close to 100 pulls at the track, tested all methods with a group of local ra owners, and the consensus is the paddles react slower. Using the shifter is more reliable, although if your on the stock turbo, just leave it in drive for best results.

Clearly you don't know "all" about this car. You raced an sti? no way bro, those are like... fast right?lol.

The best way to launch, has and always will be a boost launch. If you guys are so worried about hurting the trans, use a lower boost like 3-5 psi, even that will give you an advantage. My 1.78 60' can attest to that, although my fastest was a 1.74 60'. "feathering" the throttle, hanging at 3k rpms out of boost, or any other method you can conjure up will not even come close to matching the brake boost.

As for the Sprint Booster. I noticed my boost built quicker when brake boosting. The jury will always be out on how effective it is with all the detractors, however, in my experience, the amplified throttle signal has been beneficial.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Westbound&down
You raced an sti? no way bro, those are like... fast right?lol.
Ummm, he/she might NOT be a "bro" with a username like "racergirl"....
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 04:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Slee256
Ummm, he/she might NOT be a "bro" with a username like "racergirl"....
I didn't take notice of the username.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 06:10 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by SharkyPR
But I really don't understand something.

My RA if I'm completely stop no matter in what setting I'm (manual, ASC off, Sport, etc) with the brake pedal pressed once I release it the clutch engages and the car goes forward the same way a regular automatic does.


Are you missing something else?
same with me, not pressing the brake and im moving. i tap the gas the car lurches forward

Last edited by elmerfud54; Jan 20, 2011 at 06:10 AM. Reason: spelling
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