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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #16  
Slee256's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 03chi-town0Z
this would also be a good time to check your relays to see if they've been updated to the latest versions. you should have 3 blue relays in the box as well as one larger gray relay in the back corner. yet another reason the car could be tripping limp-in mode
Really, have you seen the green fuel relays cause the problems he's describing? I haven't upgraded my relays to Blue/Gray and have never had an issue with the exception of ONE time my car didn't start on the first crank.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 12:45 PM
  #17  
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the majority of the issues are no-start related, but one of the relays, i dont remember which, actually did something else that seemed kind of weird to me actually
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 12:19 AM
  #18  
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Cheers, I'll check the relays tonight...didn't leave the car in for service today because they didn't have a replacement for me (of course not, they never do..)
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 07:28 PM
  #19  
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revival!

had this same problem happen to me tonight although my situation may be slightly different, and looking for any imput or results from anyone else with a similar problem.

cruising at about 60mph - go to accelerate slightly but enough to go into boost, and car goes limp, with the same warning signs and the check engine light. pull over and rpms jump back and forth from 500 to 1500. turn the car off, wait a minute, and restart, car runs ok with the engine light still on. i get to where i was going, and then go to drive home about 3 hours later, car still runs ok, still check engine light still on, and i drive somewhat normally, with a little bit of caution, still going into boost while accelerating, but the car doesnt go into limp mode. so i make it back to my house ok.

i read the threads about this issue, so i do i primary check of my hoses and everything looks good. after reading about it, i thought that because i did all my own installs, that maybe my boost tube came loose or something

heres some other background info other than my signature:
-running cobb stage 2 (currently broken screen - cant check my cel until tomorrow). im sure most of you will say this is the reason, but ive been running stage 2 for almost a year now with no issues. ive been meaning to bring it back to stage 1, just gonna get it repaired by cobb.
-ive seen these warning signs before, (but without the check engine light). all of them while doing donuts. once i shut the car off and then back on, no problems. got these warnings last night doing donuts since we got some snow here in the northeast and i couldnt help myself.
-ive been recently getting some flutter (not sure if this is the normal flutter that gets mentioned in these threads, but it happens after i let off the gas)
-ive had start up issues maybe 2 or 3 times, all of which the car eventually started up, just had to try a few times (never been reflashed - leased in nov 2010)
-yes, leased, with the mods i have, so i don't particularly want to go to the dealership until i give it back


what do you guys think?
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Old Dec 30, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by tjwphoto
-ive seen these warning signs before, (but without the check engine light). all of them while doing donuts.
-yes, leased, with the mods i have


what do you guys think?
Well, I've got a big smile on my face, for a start!

Have a great New Year, all.

Rich
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 06:01 AM
  #21  
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Sounds like the exact same problem. If your car is back to operating normally, now, your car should be fine. The light will go off, on its own, after awhile if you do not manually remove it. If you take it to autozone or whatever you have near you, I'm guessing they'd be able to find a code P123X or P124X stored in the ecu, and that would be th end of it.




Also, thank you for finding this thread for me, since this is the one I was referring to when AusTweak (sp?) was having a similar issue a couple days ago.

Last edited by 03chi-town0Z; Dec 31, 2012 at 06:03 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #22  
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code is a P061A - cant find too much info on it, looks like razrlab said in another thread that its a possible overboost... you know anything about that code chitown?
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #23  
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I believe it's a torque/boost management code, relative to MAF readings and other sensor observations during operation. Most commonly (as mentioned in these threads) related to a leaking (or fluttering HKS) bpv, but not always.

If you have experienced it before and just now got the light, I'm guessing that this time you just managed to push it hard enough to trigger actual PCM recognition of the interpreted failure that you are creating. Does the COBB map disable the mentioned MAF CEL monitoring/coding?

Last edited by 03chi-town0Z; Dec 31, 2012 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #24  
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im not sure, i just read the code from my coworkers code reader, my cobb has a busted screen, gotta send it back to get repaired. code was gone when i started up to drive home about an hour ago it was gone. we'll see what happens
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 09:52 PM
  #25  
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I never got the code when this happened, stupid me. Although this happened once, its never happened twice. Im hoping it was a one time thing. I can't remember but I think I was stock at the time....
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Old Jan 4, 2013 | 09:56 PM
  #26  
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Also I still have the video of this happening on my cell phone if anyone's interested. Its short and bad quality, but it shows what you need to see.....
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 07:22 AM
  #27  
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happened to me wednesday on my 2012...really freaky experience
dealer said something about torque management
all this happened in very cold temperatures so he changed the stock blue relays for black ones for prevention we're hoping for the best
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 09:26 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mysticf4c3
happened to me wednesday on my 2012...really freaky experience
dealer said something about torque management
all this happened in very cold temperatures so he changed the stock blue relays for black ones for prevention we're hoping for the best
Just happened to me as well this morning on my way to work. Had been driving in cruise control around 65 for about 40 minutes. Came to a spot where the speed limit dropped and I had to turn. As I was accelerating out of the turn this happened. Freaked me out. I turn the car off, and waited a couple minutes. I wanted to see if the weird idling would go away. It did, but the SES light stayed on for the remaining hour of my drive.

I was going to take it to the dealership, but the closest on is about 80 miles away. I'd practically have to take a day off work to get it looked at before the weekend.

Is it worth it? Or I should be good if the code has cleared when I get off work?

Edit: Car is bone stock, by the way.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by brains613
Just happened to me as well this morning on my way to work. Had been driving in cruise control around 65 for about 40 minutes. Came to a spot where the speed limit dropped and I had to turn. As I was accelerating out of the turn this happened. Freaked me out. I turn the car off, and waited a couple minutes. I wanted to see if the weird idling would go away. It did, but the SES light stayed on for the remaining hour of my drive.

I was going to take it to the dealership, but the closest on is about 80 miles away. I'd practically have to take a day off work to get it looked at before the weekend.

Is it worth it? Or I should be good if the code has cleared when I get off work?

Edit: Car is bone stock, by the way.
GET THE CODE READ....then you can decide whether it needs to go to the dealer based on what the code is.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 10:13 PM
  #30  
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Yeah, just take it to a local auto parts store and at least have them read the code. Then you can make a better decision from that point
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