E85 conversion?
#31
Evolved Member
It's not quite that simple. Since i'm in Sweden, (Makes the car a EDM, i think?) they don't have a bolt on kit like that. Somehow i have to run a line to the ECU for the sensor output, figure out where it actually connects, (C47, connector, somewhere under the dash? Brown, or blue wire, but i cant make sense of the diagrams) and then i need to figure out what this magic trickery with the fuel tank pressure - EVAP is, and how to do it, that is, if i have to do it... I think i do?
When i said i don't know how to use a spanner, i should perhaps has said that i don't understand the first thing about cars, and car electronics.
B!
When i said i don't know how to use a spanner, i should perhaps has said that i don't understand the first thing about cars, and car electronics.
B!
#34
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Sounds promising.
But what does it actually entail? I suppose there is a harness contact, is the pin available there, or you buy a spare pin somewhere, crimp it to a cable of choice, and just route it with everything else going from the engine bay and back towards the rear?
Also, ethanol content sensors tend to have 3 pins, i'm just guessing here, but one would be this signal to be input on pin 112 on the ECU, and the other 2 are 12v power, and common ground? If that is the case, could you simple steal 12v power of the feed for the gaspump?
I mean, they should both be running at the same time, and in order to hide it well, i suppose i would stick the ethanol sensor back there, on top of the tank. Care would have to be taken to make sure that the connection doesn't let moisture in and let the copper oxidize away, but that is what shrink-wrap solder connections are for i suppose.
In reality, i wouldn't be involved in doing it, i just want to know what it takes, since i have to pay for it. And if i at least know what work they should be doing, i have a small chance at knowing if they are scamming me out of my monopoly money.
I suppose it would in reality be better to have the sensor closer to the engine compartment, where there are more possibilities for power, you wouldn't have to pull the cable so far, and the sensor is closer to where the fuel actually is used.
Will it pose any issues to actually have it on the tank, right after the pump?
But what does it actually entail? I suppose there is a harness contact, is the pin available there, or you buy a spare pin somewhere, crimp it to a cable of choice, and just route it with everything else going from the engine bay and back towards the rear?
Also, ethanol content sensors tend to have 3 pins, i'm just guessing here, but one would be this signal to be input on pin 112 on the ECU, and the other 2 are 12v power, and common ground? If that is the case, could you simple steal 12v power of the feed for the gaspump?
I mean, they should both be running at the same time, and in order to hide it well, i suppose i would stick the ethanol sensor back there, on top of the tank. Care would have to be taken to make sure that the connection doesn't let moisture in and let the copper oxidize away, but that is what shrink-wrap solder connections are for i suppose.
In reality, i wouldn't be involved in doing it, i just want to know what it takes, since i have to pay for it. And if i at least know what work they should be doing, i have a small chance at knowing if they are scamming me out of my monopoly money.
I suppose it would in reality be better to have the sensor closer to the engine compartment, where there are more possibilities for power, you wouldn't have to pull the cable so far, and the sensor is closer to where the fuel actually is used.
Will it pose any issues to actually have it on the tank, right after the pump?
#35
EvoM Guru
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You are way over thinking all of this.
You could have it wherever you wish. I've had it in the engine bay, top of the tank, trunk. All three work fine.
Power
Ground
Sensor output
The continental sensor is all sealed if you use the proper pigtail.
You could have it wherever you wish. I've had it in the engine bay, top of the tank, trunk. All three work fine.
Power
Ground
Sensor output
The continental sensor is all sealed if you use the proper pigtail.
Last edited by razorlab; Jan 15, 2018 at 10:16 AM.
#36
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Probably comes with the fact that i know i don't know enough. I ask questions that might not even need to be asked, out of a fear of doing, planing ****, wrong.
Great. I mean, the reasoning behind asking at all is kinda simplistic. I have no idea how long it takes the fuel to go from the sensor to the engine. I think there is a fuel return line, so the pump actually flows all the time? (well, as long as there is power to it) That sort of means there is at least as much flow in the pipe at idle, as there is on full throttle. Even if one were to stop with an near empty tank of 98 octane, and you fill it with E85, before you get on the road, and can floor it, the sensor should have figured out the content, and the ECU should be adapting. But then, i don't even know that, hence why i asked if stealing power from the pump would be a viable option. I mean, it would suck to do all this, and still ruin the engine over a question that could have been asked, and easily answered. I am very grateful for the time and effort you guys put in to helping out.
I intend to. The issue i would worry about is on the other end, where one cuts in to the power, and possibly, ground. On top of the tank it should be fairly well shielded anyway, and taking a minimum of measures to keep the connections healthy should be pretty basic. And if the pump and sensor get their power from the same place, then there is only one fuse to worry about thus far. Unlikely to be an issue, but still.
I intend to. The issue i would worry about is on the other end, where one cuts in to the power, and possibly, ground. On top of the tank it should be fairly well shielded anyway, and taking a minimum of measures to keep the connections healthy should be pretty basic. And if the pump and sensor get their power from the same place, then there is only one fuse to worry about thus far. Unlikely to be an issue, but still.
#38
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Yeah, that is what those solder shrink-wrap connectors do. Should create a water tight seal, if the application is done reasonably well.
#39
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I run the continental sensor on the feed line, works fine at 600whp+
The sensor and rom takes a couple seconds to read the setting, settle and interpolate, about the same time it takes you to turn the car on and pull out of the gas station. Wait a couple more seconds if you want to really worry about it.
The sensor and rom takes a couple seconds to read the setting, settle and interpolate, about the same time it takes you to turn the car on and pull out of the gas station. Wait a couple more seconds if you want to really worry about it.
#40
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Figures, but as i said, i'd rather ask and sound like i don't know anything, which would be the truth, than not ask and break something expensive due to stupidity.
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