While we have the clutch expert here, I have not seen any specs on the weight of the ACT 2900 for the Evo. Dirk, have you weighed your unit? I want to keep up the solid information this thread contains. Thanks for your input!

 

it would grab to fast and turn off.

 

We don't have a "2900" but I assume you are talking about our HDSS kit which tests at least 2950lbs of clamping force. We don't offer these specs in our literature because we haven't done anything to significantly increase or decrease the weight of the parts compared to stock. I don't have the numbers available at the moment (I'm at home). Our pressure plate is going to be basically identical to stock in weight. Our street disc is slightly heavier because of the steel backed linings which help increase burst strength or the higher copper content which helps with heat dissipation. Our rigid center puck discs of course are lighter and hold more power but chatter, noise and increased spline wear are tradeoffs you can expect.

On another note: You have 140 passes on the stock clutch and 11 sec. power? My hat's off to you. You know how to drive! It makes all the difference. I could tell you some stories about customers that are definitely not as skilled.
...Gee is it supposed to smell like that?

 

This is exactly why I think the whole having to cut the lines and add fittings is a BAD idea. I dont see a line with fittings as too much to ask for in a 1500+ dollar clutch set up, and this is the same clucth that I want to get.

 

I have adjusted the clutch to grab a little lower. I also adjusted my tune because I was running to rich down low. I think I screwed my plugs up last week testing "anti-lag". Here is a video of the sound.

http://72.41.83.159/video/tilton-noise.wmv

 

I agree hopefully that issue will be resolved. My lines are not leaking but since I had problems before I am always going to get that doubt in my mind. The clutch is great I am sure the problems I have are just adjustments that need to be made. Shifting is flawless and I have made a few quick shifts and they worked great. Of course the shifts were under 4000 rpm but the difference between this and the stock clutch is very noticeable right away without even driving it hard.

 

So it wants to stall too easy when you are trying to take off, right? The Tilton is really more of a race clutch IMO, so if you are having trouble with stalling it is probably because you are driving it too easy. It is not going to drive like any street clutch because it is not meant to. First of all it is super light, so you will lose inertia real easy. Secondly, there is no cushioning between the linings so the travel to engage is really short with not much room for moduation. Finally, the cerametallic material especially in a multiplate design is also going to be more agressive which means it is going to be grabby. Any take off or drag launch is going to need higher rpm and more attention than before. Just be careful not to slip it too much, because no clutch likes that. But with the reduced weight and high torque capacity of the Tilton, it should be an awesome clutch on the track, especially for road racing. And the release bearing system should be trouble-free too.

 

I think the bad pedal adjustment and my fouled plugs were making it a nightmare to drive. Cooling the engine right now so I can change the plugs and I am going to take the car for another spin.

 

Yeah, that's the noise. I would say it's normal and you are not going to improve on it with any adjustments I can think of.

 

ok my plugs were shot



I can live with the noise its not a big deal. Going to go take a ride and see how the cars performs now.

 

ok much much much better now. The clutch engages close to the floor now. I made adjustments to tip-in so it wouldn't be so rich. I like how it engages now. After I have had some time with this clutch I can say this is not for everyone. As ACTman stated it grab rather quickly and is noisey. The noise and the engagement do not bother me. If your one of those people who does not like brakes that squeak, interior pieces rattling, big cams, etc.. this is not for you. If you want some that grabs like a mother****er then buy this

How many miles should I put on this clutch before I attempt to launch it?

 

Normally a cerametallic is pretty much ready to go. A few good hard slips to lap it in (nothing too crazy) and it's ready to race. It's probably better to ask Tilton for their recommendation, but that's my take on it. Remember that there is no longer a restrictor in the hydraulics or anything to prevent full transfer of power, so treat it with respect.

 

I got a feeling my tcase has its days numbered

Been driving around for a bit and this clutch takes some patience to get used to. You have to ease off the clutch slowly while giving a tiny bit of gas. It grabs very fast so if you just give it gas and let off the clutch you will stall. Also if you have tip-in issues you will have problems getting the car moving. Since my last clutch was shot I was giving it lots of gas to get the car moving. The tip-in problem on the lowend was not a problem until today. I also never modified my tune since I installed the MSD DIS-2. (I was being lazy) I did a couple quick adjustments on the MAFTpro and raised the idle to 1100. The car is running great now.

 

Which is part of why it is a little harder to drive. The fluid transfer speed through the lines is unrestricted and fast which will speed up the engagement. If you are not used to this, it will take a little bit to get used to. My first Tilton client stalled the car like 4-5 times before he got used to it.

To put this in perspective, the exedy running guys are adding back the restrictor pill back into the slave cylinder on their heavier cerametallics to slow down the engagement.

With Tilton, you have a smaller circumference clutch pack which is much lighter, ss braided line, no restrictor, and hydraulic bearing. All of which can quicken the engagement. Let me know how the new pedal adjustment goes. I was actually thinking that you needed to move the pedal higher, but if lower works, then great.

Part of my luck with the 140 passes on the stocker is the removal of the restrictor pill @ 2500mi, addition of ss line and driving in my socks for 75% of the time which all help the engagement feel and reduce burn.

 

You can't have your idle that high. You will throw P0507 idle higher than expected. Let me know if your tip in issue is from 0-100kpa and I can help you. Bailey Engineering and I came up with a fix for tip in driveability in the latest beta test update.