You have to use their lines because of the fittings it brings and they are good quality lines (100% SS wrapped around Teflon tubing). You'll need a dremel to cut the line properly. In the intructions they suggest using a hacksaw but that seemed like a bad idea to me.

 

I would have swore I saw a SFI sticker in the box. I can't seem to find it now, I might have thrown it away by mistake

 

You can use a hacksaw if it is a fine tooth blade and sharp. If you wrap the spot you are going to cut with a electrical tape to keep it from fraying it will be fine. Best way is to use a good pair of aviation snips.

 

The serial number of the SFI sticker is supposed to be permanently placed on the part (engraved for instance), along with the date of manufacture. They pretty much count on the sticker coming off during use. If the parts are SFI certified, you can write down the number and date for reference at the track. I think it is a two year cert.

 

I spoke to Tilton in person today at PRI about the one line deal. They explained basically that if you are the serious racer requiring a tilton, you probably have experience with ss braided lines and AN fittings already. It should be fairly simple to cut and put the included fittings on.

Many of us are Evo owners are ex-DSMr's anyhow, with plenty of experience in fabrication, innovation and improvision .

They still took my input into consideration and may work a precut, two line system into production at a later date.

 

I think my dad would like to punch that guy in the face He was furious when we were bleeding the clutch and the bleed AN fitting kept leaking on ous.

 

Anyone that has this clutch have they experinced screeching noise when getting into gear? I have been getting this noise for the last 40-50 miles (only 80 miles on clutch) and I am a little concerned if it normal. It sounds like running your nails down a chalkboard.

Another thing no dealers around here had Diaqueen oil in stock. I put Redline 75w90ns in the tcase. When I let off the gas over 3k rpm sometimes I get a howl from under the car. Is this the tcase? I am a little concerned over the noises.

 

I have a wav file of a funny squawk certain clutches make. I am just curious if it is similar. Drop me an email at dstarksen@advancedclutch.com and I will send it to you. Of course you should contact Tilton and see what they think. Great folks over there and they know there stuff, so I am sure they can help you.

 

Tilton twin discs "chirp" from what I am hearing from other users. This sounds like what you are describing and would be normal. On top of that, in the instructions Tilton sends, it describes some additional disc rattle as normal and consistant with aftermarket multi-disc units, especially of the small and light 7.25" versions.

 

Like Scott said. These noises are normal with a twin plate clutch system. When you are engaging,disengaging,decelerating,etc.. you will have the noises. So in the end you have to sacrifice something to gain something. You gained an awesome grabbing clutch .

 

Ok whats happening is not normal. I just drove to Mcdonalds and could barely drive out of first gear. I think one of the plates is getting stuck, it feels/sounds like when a rotor is stuck.

 

You might have to adjust the clutch pedal, just a thought.

 

I was just thinking about that a few minutes ago. Right now the clutch is grabbing a little high.

 

And check your clutch lines to make sure they are not leaking. You may want to bleed the system one more time, now that you have driven it for a while. Sounds like the release bearing isn't pushing far enough out due to air in the system, low fluid or incorrect pedal adjustment. They state specifically in the instructions to put a stop in the pedal also as not to overstroke the bearing.

 

What do you mean by "could barely drive out of first gear"?