The "used" one I purchased had less than 1k miles if I remember correctly. Almost no shaft play.

You are correct that you want NO in/out play and as little up/down as possible.

If you can move the shaft enough on your own to make the compressor wheel scrape the housing, your turbo needs rebuilt / replaced.

 

Anyone post-X swap have issues with the 2 bolts from exhaust manifold to turbo backing out? Found that's where the sound was coming from. Washers are installed and gasket is still good but bolts won't stop backing out after driving the car for longer than an hour. Using stock X manifold.

 

Hey just want to say thanks for sharing all the good info. Planning my X swap soon. Going the FP green rout as soon as the turbo gets in. Also I spoke with English racing today and they are going to help with my tune, because they are about 40 miles ways in Washington.. Did buy an Etune from them?? Just curious as to how you got your tune?

 

Good to hear!

Aaron @ English Racing provided me with my etune. Took a few revisions to get it perfect. He was very helpful and quick at fine tuning everything.

 

Hey omegis sorry to ask another question ...but i guess its a general question, did you drain your oil and coolant before doing your swap? Im only asking because im curious of whether any if how much comes out of thel ines when your remove them from the engine and turbo...just picked up a turbo for 350 so im on my way there

 

Expect to replace coolant and oil.

 

You can pinch off the coolant lines no problem. Just make sure you don't compromise the lines doing it. Then just top off the coolant after install

Oil you should drain and then refill after the install.

 

This works too^

I wasn't so lucky and didn't think of pinching coolant lines but this was my first turbo swap so I accepted the learning experience. Also, the Garrett Evo X instructions told me to drain coolant but then again, I opted out of following Step #65:
"... Install Garrett stickers as necessary to increase horsepower output (2 bolts, 10mm socket, plastic clips, Garrett stickers)."

 

still snow in there?

 

Ordered the Summit Racing $100 battery relocation kit. Want the stock X air box in the car and later, the AEM intake. Got bored with the "whoosh" and heatsoak from the K&N SRI.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1200A/

 

Battery relocation to the trunk complete. Wasn't that difficult. Out with the SRI, in with the stock X airbox. Ordered an AEM intake for the X and I'll install that when it arrives.

 

Looks good. Might have to follow and relocate the battery.

 

My radar detector can read battery voltage and it typically reads around 14v before and after cranking the car up. Since doing the battery relocation, it reads in the 11s before cranking and then 14v after cranking. Also, maybe it's because I didn't notice it before but the headlights momentarily dim (1~ secs) when the fan kicks on. I'm thinking it's there's voltage drop since there's more wire distance to cover.

Anyone, feel free to comment if this is normal or irregular for relocating the battery. I'd hate to kill my alternator. I've added the link to the kit I used in my above post.

 

AEM intake installed
MAF scaled 10%

 

Looking great! Just got my x turbo with 2k on it, coolant and oil lines, and stock manifold. Hoping to have everything else soon. One question, trying to decide on a aftermarket (AMS or UR) O2 DP or just stick with the stock o2 housing and re use my UR short DP. Are the AMS or UR ones worth the cost? Anyone use them on their swap?