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Knock volt count

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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 05:38 PM
  #16  
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From: char, NC
No not knock raw, Knock volts.

When I log while free revving it looks like a cardiogram. Jagged lines from 3500 rpms to 6500rpms.

When I log a run on the hwy, it looks the same except it is reading upwards of 4.0 volts.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 05:41 PM
  #17  
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valve train noise with 280's....
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:35 AM
  #18  
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Yep, sounds like your "noize floor" is not set up. If it was, you would see almost no voltage at free rev, and then maybe 1-2 volts at full power (hopefully).

EVOlutionary
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #19  
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From: La Isla Del Encanto
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Yep, sounds like your "noize floor" is not set up. If it was, you would see almost no voltage at free rev, and then maybe 1-2 volts at full power (hopefully).

EVOlutionary
What is noize floor ?
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 09:48 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Yep, sounds like your "noize floor" is not set up. If it was, you would see almost no voltage at free rev, and then maybe 1-2 volts at full power (hopefully).

EVOlutionary
This is not correct. The Knock Sensor is just that, it's a sensor that reads 0-5 volts. Knock #1 Volts is reading exactly what it should the voltage output from the knock sensor. At no time is the Knock #1 Volts a filter from the Knock control table, you log Knock #1 volts to setup your Knock control table.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 11:51 AM
  #21  
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From: char, NC
Isn't the internet great.... You get 5 different people telling you all these different things when you don't know who is spouting garbage and who knows what the hell they are talking about.

Somebody please tell me what "could be" causing this knock.

Last night I poured in 5 gallons of 110 octane and filled up my methanol tank.

I lowered the boost down to 25 psi, but kept the timing the same( 8 deg max). I had to dial in the air fuels down to 10.3-10.8 just to get the knock to lower down to around 2.5 volts.

WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? Don't get me wrong, the car still pulls like a frieght train, but its not tuned to the full potential IMO.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #22  
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From: Turlock, Ca
seek professional help.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 06:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kcevo
This is not correct. The Knock Sensor is just that, it's a sensor that reads 0-5 volts. Knock #1 Volts is reading exactly what it should the voltage output from the knock sensor. At no time is the Knock #1 Volts a filter from the Knock control table, you log Knock #1 volts to setup your Knock control table.
Hmmm. . . that is different than what the manual says. Quoted from
AEM EMS User Guide V2.0



__________________________________________________ _______________


Knock #1
Units: Volts
Description: Displays actual detonation from theory which is equal to
Knock #1 Raw -Knock Sensor Cal Table.
__________________________________________________ ________________________









Knock #1 Raw
Units: Volts
Description: Displays the current raw voltage input from the knock #1 sensor.
__________________________________________________ _______________


That is why the original poster's issues is irrelevent if the knock calibration table is not set up. This "knock" that he keeps having is probably just engine noise. You use the knock calibration tables to "tune it out" so that you only see true knock when you log "Knock#1".

If you have not read then entire AEM EMS manual a couple times please take your car back to the tuner and have them fix it.

EVOlutionary

Last edited by EVOlutionary; Apr 2, 2006 at 06:48 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 06:52 PM
  #24  
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From: Salem, OR
Originally Posted by kf6ytc
seek professional help.
I agree. At least call some shops that may have an electronic stethscope (Det cans) and verify that your tune isn't knocking. At least then you'll have the piece of mind. Your knock control will be compromised until you get to the root cause of the issue, but at least you'll no your tuning is OK until then.

I am pretty sure that Dyno4mance would have some det cans.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:29 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
Hmmm. . . that is different than what the manual says. Quoted from
AEM EMS User Guide V2.0



__________________________________________________ _______________


Knock #1
Units: Volts
Description: Displays actual detonation from theory which is equal to
Knock #1 Raw -Knock Sensor Cal Table.
__________________________________________________ ________________________









Knock #1 Raw
Units: Volts
Description: Displays the current raw voltage input from the knock #1 sensor.
__________________________________________________ _______________


That is why the original poster's issues is irrelevent if the knock calibration table is not set up. This "knock" that he keeps having is probably just engine noise. You use the knock calibration tables to "tune it out" so that you only see true knock when you log "Knock#1".

If you have not read then entire AEM EMS manual a couple times please take your car back to the tuner and have them fix it.

EVOlutionary
No, No, and no again. The knock calibration table is there for knock control, that is it. You log knock #1 volts while knock control is turned off to set up your knock calibration table. The knock calibration table is there for KNOCK CONTROL ONLY. So if knock control is turned on and Knock #1 volts spikes to 2.0 volts at 3000 rpm's and your knock calibration table at 3000 rpm's is 1.5 volts, then it will retard timing and add fuel if the options for ignition control and fuel control are set, that's it. Again, a knock sensor reads from 0-5 volts and Knock #1 volts is the reference for that.
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:44 PM
  #26  
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That is not what the manual says. It says that Knock Raw is a direct reference to the voltage being output from the sensor. If you table is not set up then Knock#1 will equal Knock Raw.

As it says above, quoted from AEM, Knock #1 shows "theoretical" knock based on a comparison of the cal table vs. Knock Raw. The knock control does not have to be turned on for this comparison to take place.

If I am wrong please tell me again. I will do some logs in my car to verify.

EVOlutionary
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Old Apr 2, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #27  
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From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by EVOlutionary
That is not what the manual says. It says that Knock Raw is a direct reference to the voltage being output from the sensor. If you table is not set up then Knock#1 will equal Knock Raw.

As it says above, quoted from AEM, Knock #1 shows "theoretical" knock based on a comparison of the cal table vs. Knock Raw. The knock control does not have to be turned on for this comparison to take place.

If I am wrong please tell me again. I will do some logs in my car to verify.

EVOlutionary
You shouldn't log Knock #1. You should be logging Knock #1 volts. Also, you should be doing your logging internally at a sampling rate of at least 60 samples a second for the fast paramaters especially when setting up the knock calibration table. Also, check the help drop down box for the context senstive help in the AEM Pro software. When you scroll over windows, parameters, options, etc it will bring up a pop up window to describe what it is and sometimes some ideas for settings/tuning.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 05:28 AM
  #28  
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From: Michigan
My bad. I was thinking you were talking about logging the voltage at parameter Knock #1. Now I understand, there is a third parameter in addition to the two I mentioned above. It is actually called Knock#1 Volts and you are logging the voltage reading of that parameter.

Knock #1 Volts
Units: Volts
Description: Displays the raw voltage input from the sensor at the ignition event for
each coil that is assigned to
Knock #1.



Thanks for the clarification.

EVOlutionary
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 05:36 AM
  #29  
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The AEM knock count stuff is all over the map. I'll have to dig around (posting to suscribe basically and let you know i have this info) that shows a J&S output hooked up and logged alongside the AEM knock count... the J&S will yield tighter detections. So I would try and call them and get one of those units if you are serious about wanting to tighten your knock counts down and really know what is good and/or bad... but a lot has to do on where you mount the sensor, etc for the AEM counts. It can be tricky business getting anywhere near close on the values.
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