itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

Well, I got series 2 and got the car running/idling great. Start the WOT tuning and at 5500~6000 rpms it has like a cut/miss/drop out problem every time. Has anyone else had this issue or heard of it or even have some insight to what may be going on?

Putting the series 1 box back in the car it is solid as a rock every gear up to 9000 rpms...

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

Also noticed the tach jumping a little bit while holding a steady speed. This was around 2700~3100 and only did it a handful of times. I wasn't driving at the time so I only caught that part once it was brought to my attention. After it was noticed we couldn't reproduce it.

Tbtalon94

iTrader: (12)

Might want to try syncing the cam/crank in the Wizard again. I noticed it would lose it somehow sometimes and weird things would happen.

I sent your file back by the way.

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

I tried that also and it still says matched

I replied to your email, I have a SparkTech Pro CDI COP which is why the dwell was set that way (as per the wizard).

Tbtalon94

iTrader: (12)

I also noticed you had your coolant sensor set-up for the wrong Mitsu. I did that too on accident. You need to select the one that says for the 6310, 6320 EMS.

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

Well see the strange thing of that is the coolant read incorrectly when it was selected for what the wizard says it should be. When I changed it to the other one the temperatures displayed were inline with what AEM Series 1 shows. I'm thinking something is up with that also...

Tbtalon94

iTrader: (12)

That's how mine was at first too. My box is been to AEM twice now, and the 2nd time it came back that no longer was the case.

Now I have this miss/cut out at 2,000rpms that I can't get rid of. I have given it a ton of fuel there, taken fuel out, messed with injector phasing, etc. etc. none help.

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

I have box # 029 so its an early build. This sucks I am quite frustrated. I'm calling them soon as they open to see what they have to say.

Tbtalon94

iTrader: (12)

Been talking with AEM back and forth the past few weeks now, and they have told me there is a new firmware that will fix most of the problems people are having, including the idle issues!

The firmware is to be released in the next few weeks. Good to know AEM is standing behind their product and listening to the public trying to fix problems that arrise!

-Trevor

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

I talked to them today. The tech guy wasn't too concerned with the coolant sensor issue right now if its reading correctly using the other cal, which it is. He wants me to watch if it loses stat sync at all and try lower boost along vacuum pulls etc... and report back. The idea is to see if it is load based or if it really is a box issue not allowing the car to go over 6100rpms. The tach issue if it comes back we'll ge tinto that one also. I hope to have some more information tonight.

evoboi005

iTrader: (9)

i haven't had any of these issues that i have noticed and i have box #1 lol

churchja

iTrader: (17)

I haven't had either of these issues with my Series #2 EMS... #017

As noted in a previous post #26, I have had the idle/start problem. However, figured out an issue with my AEM FPR leaking, not related to the EMS. Hoping once new FPR installed, it will resolve some of the start/idle issues I've been experiencing.

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

Interesting. Would you mind letting me see your calibration? I'm thinking Series 2 may be more sensitive cause on Series 1 my car runs perfectly. I sent off some logs to AEM yesterday and I am waiting to hear back. Looks like right when the cutout happens I have a spike in the Crank Tooth Period stream and also Stat Sync is turning on and off quite a bit.

itzwolf

iTrader: (9)

My startup plain sucks most of the time... When it works it is just like/better than stock. When it doesn't work it fires off once but doesn't continue to run. It's actually worse than Series 1 at this point because it doesn't work nearly as much as it does work. This morning it took over 10 attempts before the car finally idled, and when it did it was solid even with defrosters on to clear the windows.

Tbtalon94

iTrader: (12)

That's pretty much how mine is.

Either Fires instantly and idles great, or won't fire after a million cranks and keeps dieing when it does start.

Seams to do the worste of the 2 more often.

Series1 would always start and idle just the stat sync sometimes took longer.