I am telling you guys that everything has been checked. The o2 sensor has also been replaced and nothing happened. Also, I don't really believe that the fuel pump is overrunning the stock FPR because I have had that fuel pump in my car for a long time and have never had any problems.

 

Is the BOV stuck open?

 

All the vacuum and boost line have been checked and there are no leaks. Also, the vehicle in not throwing and SES lights and every fuse has been checked on the car.

 

Well if you know anything about cars than you would know fpr can take a poop on you at any time. I was just trying to make a suggestion and it seemed ironic this is the same thing that happened to me and guess what, I had my walbro 255 in for 6 months before this happened. Imagine that, what a coincidence.

You don't sound like you are looking for advice but rather stuck on pointing the blame. Go learn about fuel systems and tuning before asking people for help.

 

I believe (not too sure what side) one of the side of the turbo was disconnected when it was run like an NA car. The turbo was shipped with the little peanuts and the blow off valve is recirculating back to the intake pipe.

 

i say, get an adjustible FPR b/c i gauranty that your fuel is sky rocketed at idle, it is a $150 mod that you will pleased with. it doesn't sound like the problem is in the maf but it could be, i hate these damb things, i would say delete the stock maf and go with a blow thru set up, their less restrictive, not as touchy, and their easier to tune. You can also put on any size intake you want!

 

Hey I appreciate your help, but you need to understand that I have just spent over 6000 dollars on this kit and I am frusted that it does not work. If you would like, I will call TT up right now and have them replace my fuel pump with another fuel pump to test your theory. Also, the FPR was changed out, its not like we have not checked it.

 

If you re-placed the FPR with a stock one you still wouldn't be able to see what the psi is at like you would with an adjustable regulator with a gauge. To be honest I doubt it's the FPR at this point, and probably a restriction in the i/c piping, i/c, turbo, bov, etc., basically everything on the charge side of the turbo should be checked for restrictions.

Does the turbo spin freely by hand?

 

I think that EVOONYOASS could be on the correct track with the FPR, but I do not think that the car would run in N/A form if it was dumping too much fuel. It would still flood out which would kind of disprove that theory, but it is still worth looking in to.

Anyway, see if they can run the car N/A again while the turbo is still on the manifold. Look to see if the compressor turns smoothly, actually there are two things that you can do on this step. Our car will run without the MAF at idel. Run it with the maf unplugged N/A and look for the compressor to be spinning. If it spins then it is free and you will still have to blow air through the exducer to check for obstructions, but at least the turbine section is spinning it up. Next, use some of the tubing and fittings that you already have and hook the MAF up directly to the throttle body, basically run N/A through the MAF and see if it still runs well. If so then you have chased the problem down to a flowing issue with the turbo itself, like I said, it is possible that something is chocking up the compressor housing internally. They are rather easy to remove in order to check, but be careful on removal and re-installation so as not to damage the compressor wheel.

Let us know what happens.

 

gnulooks, READ what I am typing. It's NOT your fuel pump, but probably your fuel pressure regulator. Switching out the regulator with another STOCK regulator will NOT fix the problem though. If your fuel pump is over riding the system with TOO HIGH of PSI it will cause you to have a rich idle. Install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator WITH a guage and lower it to the proper PSI.

The fuel pump will continue to over ride ANY stock fpr that you install because it is sending WAY TOO much fuel to the regulator and over riding it.

Call the shop and ask them to put a guage on the fuel system and see what PSI the system is at. That will eliminate my theory. Good luck.

 

^agreed

 

Unfortunately, once the MAF is disconnected my car dies! I know that TT had either the hot side or cold side of the turbo still connected when it was running NA, so there could be possibility that either one of those sides is bad. Alfred from TT explained how he did this in detail, but it was too technical for me to remember everything he said.

 

Ok, at this point and time I will try just about anything so I will call TT up and ask them to check out the FPR with a gauge. Hopefully its not too expensive of a fix.

 

I will bet......80 PSI at idle! whos puting money down!

 

I would take out the xede and try the aem to see if that will help. it may be the exede is not mapped for the turbo.