My Xede was taken out of the equation and the car still does not run right. We also replaced my Xede with an Xede from another EVO that is running an AMS 35R kit, however, this did not do anything for my car.

 

It seems as though you didn't originally understand what I was saying so I will explain the easiest way I can.

When you install a high flow fuel pump like a walbro 255 it makes your fuel pressure jump sky high. The stock fuel pressure regulator is meant to work at a certain fuel pressure, but when a higher fuel pressure is present(walbro 255) it over rides the regulator and causes a rich condition. Replacing it with another STOCK regulator will not remedy the situation. The fuel pressure(PSI) needs to be at or near the recommended PSI for the system to opperate properly.

Nothing is wrong with your fuel pump. It is doing its job which is too supply more fuel than the stock fuel pump could. That being said, when you install a guage and new adjustable aftermarket regulator you can lower the PSI to the proper level. This will take away the rich idle condition you are having.

I'm pretty sure this is the problem, but without finding out the current PSI of the fuel system you will never know. You will be guessing till your head turns blue.

I would recommend the Buschur bolt on fpr because it comes with a guage and is fully adjustable. DON'T get a B & M regulator because you can only adjust them UP and not DOWN.

 

yea, try putting a gauge on your FPR and either that's it, or cross it off the list of possibilities, and move on to something different. Then you can look for a different problem. These boards are here to help you, LISTEN. Good luck tho.

 

its not that we are not "standing behind our product" We just dont want to see you pull this kit send it back and have us toss it on another car and it works just fine. now not only do you not have a turbo kit but the problem is still there. like we have told you the kit really cant cause the problem. We want to see your car back on the road and that is why martin has been talking with TT so much. This is something that can be resolved we just have to make sure no stone is unturned. Martin had Given TT some things to do and it seemed they did not have the equipment to perform it. Checking base FPR is a huge thing and something that should of been tried a long time ago. We want to help you Angel and I really do hope that we can resolve this and we will do whatever it takes to get this resolved for you. Martin is on the case with TT and he is a tough guy to stump.

Eric

 

I concur that your situation has nothing what so ever to do with the AMS turbo kit which is a great product.

My guess is that who ever installed your turbo kit damaged your front 02 sensor which is easy to do - particularly if the old one was rusted in there

I have seen this happen before - the car is in closed loop at idel and will idel super rich if the 02 sesnor is damaged

Best of luck with resolving your problem, cars are complex mechanical devices and trouble shooting can be a time consuming process

 

Not correct. The walbro pump has little or no effect on base or static fuel pressure at idle. It had more of an effect on full throttle high rpms. In any event, even with higher base pressure the closed loop control of the stock ecu would compensate for additional fuel pressure and mainatin a solid 14.6 /1 a/f ratio.

 

I truly empathize with your situation but we must look at the situation from a diagnostic standpoint. If you are going to be tuning with any kind of piggyback, and you have changed the fuel system (injectors, pump, ect) you must be monitoring the fuel trims. The stock ECU will change fuel trims (short and long term) to acheive what the computer thinks is the correct A/F ratio under closed loop conditions. If the car is ideling rich (is it verified on a wideband?), the first thing I would do is look at the fuel trims, what the front O2 sensor if reading and what the tune is at the idle conditions. I asked TT to please get ahold of an OBDII scanner and get this basic information, otherwise it's all a shot in the dark. The car is running rich for a reason, they must find out why. Either the injectors are staying open longer, or the pressure behind them is very high. FP is easy to check, after that find out why the pulsewidth is too high...what's telling the injectors to inject more fuel?
a) is it in closed loop at idle,
b) what's the front o2 reading
c) Fuel trims
e) load or MAF HZ reading

You really can't just throw parts at a situation like this, you must have the proper tools to gather information that will let you make decisions to fix the problem. I'm not saying there is absolutely no way it's not the turbo kit's fault, but we must have more information to know what's going on.
Cars can be a big pain in the *** sometimes. They are very complex and when you modify them you add to the complexity of the situation.

-Martin

 

It's probably the O2 sensor like previously stated. The installer probably damaged it when he did the install.

Maybe when it happened to my car it was a rare occurance. Why was my fuel pressure over 20 psi at idle what it should've been after I installed a guage. When I installed an adjustable regulator and lowered it to the proper psi it fixed the problem. Must of been a freak accident, huh.

 

i'm the one who installed the kit so let me put this issue to rest.

the fuel pump is not the problem. his car came in running on the walbro pump, it did not get installed with the kit.

the ecu has been reflashed twice by vishnu to accomodate the injectors.

injectors have been switched in case they were defective.

fpr has been switched for another unit.

maf has been switched for another unit.

coils have been switched

cam sensor has been switched

front o2 sensor has been switched

maf has been moved around and we even got the stock airbox back in.

boost leak check was performed and no leaks were present to 25psi

all piping has been removed and checked for obstructions

the exede was swapped for another unit

we tried the second map on his exede

we tried scaling his exede for the injectors

all wiring and fuses have been looked over

the car is not throwing any check engine codes

plugs have been changed three times


we finally decided to connect the maf to the throttle body directly in order to isolate the turbo kit as the culprit. the car starts and runs perfectly.

with the maf conected to the intake to the turbo the car will barely run and will foul plugs within minutes.

i am by no means a stranger to the evo and have had great results with all our customers.

we are just out of ideas now.

 

I would try an AEM or just run the ECU with no piggyback, it sounds like a compatability issue with the XEDE tune and the setup. Even though you tried different XEDES, the maps are still pretty close to the same, and if they both function as designed, then, well, results are the same.

I am getting this setup in the next few months, so I will be curious to hear how this pans out.

thanks.

 

I have a lot of sympathy for my friend Angel. We live about 8 miles away from each other and I'm on the phone with him almost every day. Before people start wondering if the Xede is compatible with AMS kits, read this:

My car went into Tuning Technologies with almost the exact same set up as Gnulooks - a Vishnu 1++ that managed an 11.9 at 115mph with the Xede. I blew my engine back in April so I decided to go with AMS for the rebuild parts. Here is how my car reacted to them:
* First, I did experience three delays getting all my parts: Ams was at fault only once and their suppliers at fault twice. I felt bad for Tuning Technologies. They were really cool about storing my car at their shop for the extra time. AMS was cool about the delays and in the end, everything was taken care of.
*The stroker kit: everything fit perfect, and I mean perfect.
* The turbo kit: My feeling is and was that AMS is the undisputed king of the 35R turbo kit. So I went with it. Beautiful peice of work. Bolted on perfectly.
* 880 injectors from AMS: I sent my ecu to Vishnu. Shiv scaled it for the big injectors.
* Tuning Technologies completed the motor, turned the key: It fired up immediately and has run perfectly ever since. I am running my old Xede map from my stock turbo. It is a little rich at WOT but safe. I'm running around at 19-20 psi. I have 750 miles on it and am almost ready to tune the crap of it. It pulls like a freight train.
* So, in the end, my car is/was FAR more complex a job than Angel's and involved parts that make idle and stall issues worse with the stock ecu/maf (bigger injectors, K & N intake). Yet it runs perfectly.

My take: Maybe the dynamics of the 3071 turbo on the AMS kit upsets the stock MAF more than the 35R kit?? The stock MAF is probably the culprit. I agree with Martin that a scientific diagnosis must be made. But hats off to Tuning Technologies as well for their extensive troubleshooting.

 

I am also running this setup, and FWIW, I'd say that expectation wise (spool/power/drivability) you should probably be thinking middle-of-the-road, as in it will probably not make as much power as some ppl (AMS excluded) on these boards claim; spoolup will be compromised vs stock, although it spools quicker once it does; you may lose some drivability (low speed stop-n-go situations, not at WOT), depending on your exact setup (EMS/injectors/cams/intake).

To the guys at TT: Besides checking the wiring, have you checked the voltages? A long shot to be sure, but at this point...

l8r)

 

know you guys said you had the maps checked and rechecked, but something is not right. It has to be something to do with the tune, turbine obstruction, an obstruction in piping, MAF, or fuel system itself.

1. Throw on another turbo and see if it works.
2. Maybe the injectors are stuck open or getting a signal to stay open, switching them out will not fix the problem. It might be a signal problem.
3. Recheck the piping and bov.
4. Recheck the couplers for holes or tears.
5. Would the throttle position sensor(TPS) have anything to do with this? Could it be off?
6. Recheck the maps yourself. Maybe Shiv overlooked something twice. Send it to somebody else and have them check it.
7. Try a third O2 sensor just to be sure. The chances are slim but...you never know.
8. What about the ignition wires, check to make sure they are in correct firing order. I'm reaching here.

Nobody said it was the fuel pump so I don't know where you guys got that idea. If it were a lean condition the pump would be suspect not a rich condition.

Do a process of elimination again. Make a check list and do one by one and mark them off. Good luck man!

 

So what your saying is that all the above problems can be diagnosed with a $200 dollar OBDII scanner? If this is what is needed to get the job done, then I will just flip the additional bill and buy one, hell I've spent this much already what's another $200 dollars. What brand and model of OBDII scanner do you recommend because I really need to get this car diagnosed and I don't want to do it at the cost of buying parts like new FPR's that might not make any changes to the problems that are being experienced with my car.

 

Many problems can be diagnosed with an OBDII scanner. Fuel trims, O2 sensor readings, etc....

This is also a common tool that most shops carry. Most auto parts stores sell them. I believe Advanded Auto, NAPA, or Autozone carry them. You can buy them online for a decent price. Many dsm guys use them for datalogging and to watch fuel trims.