RED DEMON

iTrader: (5)

I have roughly 50000 miles on my evo 8 and i started getting a heavy vibration or shutter ONLY when turning while accelerating from a stop, ALONG with a clinking noise while turning, lasting from about 0-10 mph . For example i would not get the shutter if i went straight at a stop sign; but if i were to take a left at a stop sign i would get the heavy vibration and clinking noise.

Could i bring the car down to you guys and have you diagnose the problem? If so, how much would it be and how would you determine the pricing for diagnosing the problem?

Anyone have any ideas? Again this happens only when starting accerating from a stop WHILE turning; or if i were to be taking a turn at a VERY low rate of speed. (under 10 mph)

This started happening after i had the following installed by your shop: HKS 272 cams, HKS EVC 5 EBC, AMS FMIC 10.5 hotside, intercooler hoses, walboro fuel pump, ARP headstuds, AMS front motor mount, FLUIDS on car changed, and then dyno tuning the car


OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PROBLEM:
It make a clink....clink noise as i accelerate while turning
It increases in frequency as speed increases, then goes away at about 15 mph.
It does NOT happen when going in a straightline
Heres an example of starting from a stop...TURNING while accelerating: clink.....clink....clink...clink..clink clink clink clink


Here is what i DON'T think it is
-front diff (no power loss noticed, just strange noise)
-Transfer case - no other problems, no power loss noticed
-rear diff (although may be the fluid or need for friction modifier)


Here is what i think it MAY POSSIBLY be:
-Heavy clutch chatter ?
-Wheel bearing going out (this is primary thought)
-Bad/wrong TC or rear diff fluid? (used one fluid for 45k, then changed to Redline and got problem soon after)
-Power steering problem?
-Front axles?
-Front motor mount?


To further explain the heavy vibration/shutter it sounds and feels like when you try to accelerate from a stop from a higher gear (2nd, 3rd, etc) instead of first..while having a chattering/clinking noise that increases in frequency as speed does (until it goes away at 15mph)




pic of my car down at AMS just for sh|ts.....

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

I'd check front axle cv joints first. Most likely a front outer joint.

AutoMotoSports

iTrader: (42)

Its hard to diagnose a problem like this over the internet, For that reason alone I cant really give you a quote on labor.

To me this sounds like a wheel bearing but without the car here its hard.

Eric

RED DEMON

iTrader: (5)

I am in Denver CO currently, and will be back the end of this month. The car is currently in WI, as i left it there while i was living in Denver.
Is there any way i could bring the car down to you guys when i get back?
What are your open appointments for November 23-December 20?

Thanks in advance! I hope i can get my girl back to health!

stiklr

iTrader: (2)

I have the exact same problem. I have had this problem for 2 years now. My car only has 25,500 miles. I took it into AMS last year for a new ACT clutch and I had them look at the transfer case and they saw nothing and they were unble to duplicate the problem.
The thing is with this shuttering / vibration is that it only happens to me when the car is fully warmed up. Basically it wont do it in the 1st 10 minutes of driving. Is that the same for you? I think it is the transfer kit because it feels like the gears are binding up on slow turns when the front diff is distributing the power to the front wheels. It feels to me like the gears are spaced wrong or are damaged in the TC and they are clattering and binding up in low speeds. Once the gears are spinning faster the vibrations / clattering goes away.
As for the theory of it being a wheel bearing, does a wheel bearing see different loads depending if the front wheels are pointed straight or not? The bearing sits in the hub and it is in the same arrangement regardless of the wheel angle right?

Red Demon, let me know if you find out the cause of this problem, as it is very annoying and I would love to find out it is a simple fix like a bearing. I am hesitant in spending more money on labor to find the problem.

PA-silver03evo

iTrader: (7)

Most of the time when a wheel bearing is going bad you can tell by making turns with the car. For example if the noise is louder when making a left turn, its a right wheel bearing because more weight is being put on the outer bearing.

ibanez_926

iTrader: (1)

Does it make noises turning in both directions? or just one. I had a similar problem with clunking turning in one direction and it ended up being that my lugnuts on my rim were coming loose.

stiklr

iTrader: (2)

It is the exact same in both directions. It is definately a driveline issue, because if I depress the clutch while it is shuttering / clattering it instantly becomes normal.
If it was a bearing, cv joint, axle, or loose lugs I would think it would grind / shutter in neutral while turning. Regardless if the car is in gear or just rolling in neutral, these components are rotating exactly the same with the same loads. It only happens when it is in 1st or 2nd gear between 5 - 15 mph. Also if it was a bearing, it wouldn't explain why it only happens after the car is warmed up.

SilverEvo8owner

iTrader: (3)

i have had the same thing for like a year and a half

It doenst do it when i am around town and stuff. I have to run it on the highway or for more than a couple miles at a times and it will make a grumbling noise when turning at low speeds. It started when i put redline fluid and since then i have changed all of it except the rear diff still has redline in it. Im going to have a flush done that next time.

stiklr

iTrader: (2)

Are You Saying The Redline Drivetrain Fluid Is The Cause, Because I Had The Fluids Swapped Out With Redline Fluids At About 12,000 Miles .

RED DEMON

iTrader: (5)

Redline is what i had put in also...and the problem started soon after

I think i may look into friction modifiers, a stronger fluid by redline, or maybe get the redline out of the car all together!


I was thinking about your posts STIKLR, i can agree that it doesnt happen until the car it warmed up...i have gotten into the car and started driving for a few miles with no problems thinking it magically fixed itself....BUT then it would start up after a few miles, once it warmed up.

IBANEZ-It happens while turning both directions if i can recall, so maybe it is not the wheel bearing....?

I think the first thing that i need to do when i take it down to AMS is see if there is any "play" in the wheel. Do this by having the wheel off the ground and holding it with both hands, then see if the wheel has any "play", if the wheel will move slightly toward the car, and be able to be pulled toward you also. (See if the wheel can move toward and away from the vehicle)

AutoMotoSports

iTrader: (42)

we are pretty wide open durring that time frame. Give us a call and make an appointment

Eric

monies41

iTrader: (14)

I had something similar when i had 7k on my 05 MR. I took it to the dealership and they replace the whole transfer case under warranty. Not sure if it is the same thing but i def. notices it while parking. Slow speeds and turning it was noticably making a weird vibration. And yes i did break it in properly.

stiklr

iTrader: (2)

Yo Red Demon,
Any Updates On The Vibrations.
Im Still Wondering If The Redline Fluid Is The Culprit.
Let Me KnoW If There Is Any Further Info

RED DEMON

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE for stiklr and others:

I changed the fluid to Mobil1 synthetic 75w-90 rear diff fluid and within 5 miles of driving back the vibration and shutter went COMPLETELY away.
Revvin9k from here on the boards PMed me and mentioned that he had the exact same symptoms with his evo and recommended that i put in the mobil1 because it solvedhis problem.
Ever since changing the fluid i have not had a single vibration or shutter. I honestly believe that some EVOs like the redline and other hate it, my car definately hated it.
I am very glad that simply changing the fluid solved the problem, and that it was not a major mechanical problem like the rear diff going out (i am at 50k miles!)
Also, while changing it there were NO metal shavings in the redline fluid while draining it, so that was a good sign.
I have been driving it for about 500 miles since the fluid change, with no signs of the problem coming back; but i do plan to change the fluid once or twice more to get all the remaining redline out of the rear diff gears