Grimspeed EBCS + Cobb Stage 2+SF+CBCS 93 v201!
Hey guys!
To make a long story short since I have some experience tuning DSM's and pretty much don't have any reliable tuner near me (closest is 5 hrs away) I got bored one day and tired of looking at the Grimmspeed sitting in my room. I read up on Merlin's tuning guide to get a good idea of what was involved in adjusting the Grimmspeed and decided to give it a try. However, while I was scouring one of the forums I found the Cobb Stage 2+SF+CBCS 93 v201 OTS map that was still being tweaked but fully functional. Moreover, after comparing both the Grimmspeed and the Cobb 3 port BCS I found them to be very similar in appearance and if I recall even the nipples hook up in the same location! Armed with a fully functional wideband and capable boost gauge I decided to flash the aforementioned map to see if it would work and to my surprise it works very well with my setup! I peak at about 26 psi and taper to 24-25 psi to redline with no knock and my AFR was at about 11-11.2 at WOT. The latter is consistent with 4-6 pulls back to back. However, my question is as follows: Besides BOOST CONTROL LOAD OFFSET and BOOST TARGET ENGINE LOAD 1A High Gear Range, 1B High Gear Range and 2 Low Gear Range is there any other table that I would have to modify in AP to either increase or decrease boost? I know what cells to modify in the above parameters, however I am unsure whether there are any other parameters in addition to the above that need to be modified? That's it! The car runs perfect on 93 octane and I don't want to touch it, however when the cold weather comes I would like to know how to turn the boost down on my own. Also please understand that I did a very dangerous experiment on my own car but only because I was very confident and had a wideband and boost gauge to monitor my progress, I am in no way shape or form encouraging anyone else to do this because each car behaves differently and proceed at your own risk! I am just simply stating my observation that led to an experiment which luckily had a very positive outcome! I would just like someone with experience to chime in and answer my questions above and I should be good to go!
Thanks!
Alen N.
To make a long story short since I have some experience tuning DSM's and pretty much don't have any reliable tuner near me (closest is 5 hrs away) I got bored one day and tired of looking at the Grimmspeed sitting in my room. I read up on Merlin's tuning guide to get a good idea of what was involved in adjusting the Grimmspeed and decided to give it a try. However, while I was scouring one of the forums I found the Cobb Stage 2+SF+CBCS 93 v201 OTS map that was still being tweaked but fully functional. Moreover, after comparing both the Grimmspeed and the Cobb 3 port BCS I found them to be very similar in appearance and if I recall even the nipples hook up in the same location! Armed with a fully functional wideband and capable boost gauge I decided to flash the aforementioned map to see if it would work and to my surprise it works very well with my setup! I peak at about 26 psi and taper to 24-25 psi to redline with no knock and my AFR was at about 11-11.2 at WOT. The latter is consistent with 4-6 pulls back to back. However, my question is as follows: Besides BOOST CONTROL LOAD OFFSET and BOOST TARGET ENGINE LOAD 1A High Gear Range, 1B High Gear Range and 2 Low Gear Range is there any other table that I would have to modify in AP to either increase or decrease boost? I know what cells to modify in the above parameters, however I am unsure whether there are any other parameters in addition to the above that need to be modified? That's it! The car runs perfect on 93 octane and I don't want to touch it, however when the cold weather comes I would like to know how to turn the boost down on my own. Also please understand that I did a very dangerous experiment on my own car but only because I was very confident and had a wideband and boost gauge to monitor my progress, I am in no way shape or form encouraging anyone else to do this because each car behaves differently and proceed at your own risk! I am just simply stating my observation that led to an experiment which luckily had a very positive outcome! I would just like someone with experience to chime in and answer my questions above and I should be good to go!
Thanks!
Alen N.
Oh and BTW I know it is a little off topic but what would you guys recommend next on my mod list to max out the stock turbo other than a obvious tune with what I have done already! Fuel? Cams? Any input is welcome
i did the same as you only with the 91 map and in addtion am also using the 18psi forge WGA and have had no issues no knock and my afr's look fine im pretty happy with the beta maps.
edit: now that iv been running this map for a while and braden also pointed this out in my logs, i am leaning out north of 6k but im also using the aem intake on the sf map
edit: now that iv been running this map for a while and braden also pointed this out in my logs, i am leaning out north of 6k but im also using the aem intake on the sf map
Last edited by DocBoz; Aug 11, 2012 at 04:23 PM.
Hey guys!
To make a long story short since I have some experience tuning DSM's and pretty much don't have any reliable tuner near me (closest is 5 hrs away) I got bored one day and tired of looking at the Grimmspeed sitting in my room. I read up on Merlin's tuning guide to get a good idea of what was involved in adjusting the Grimmspeed and decided to give it a try. However, while I was scouring one of the forums I found the Cobb Stage 2+SF+CBCS 93 v201 OTS map that was still being tweaked but fully functional. Moreover, after comparing both the Grimmspeed and the Cobb 3 port BCS I found them to be very similar in appearance and if I recall even the nipples hook up in the same location! Armed with a fully functional wideband and capable boost gauge I decided to flash the aforementioned map to see if it would work and to my surprise it works very well with my setup! I peak at about 26 psi and taper to 24-25 psi to redline with no knock and my AFR was at about 11-11.2 at WOT. The latter is consistent with 4-6 pulls back to back. However, my question is as follows: Besides BOOST CONTROL LOAD OFFSET and BOOST TARGET ENGINE LOAD 1A High Gear Range, 1B High Gear Range and 2 Low Gear Range is there any other table that I would have to modify in AP to either increase or decrease boost? I know what cells to modify in the above parameters, however I am unsure whether there are any other parameters in addition to the above that need to be modified? That's it! The car runs perfect on 93 octane and I don't want to touch it, however when the cold weather comes I would like to know how to turn the boost down on my own. Also please understand that I did a very dangerous experiment on my own car but only because I was very confident and had a wideband and boost gauge to monitor my progress, I am in no way shape or form encouraging anyone else to do this because each car behaves differently and proceed at your own risk! I am just simply stating my observation that led to an experiment which luckily had a very positive outcome! I would just like someone with experience to chime in and answer my questions above and I should be good to go!
Thanks!
Alen N.
To make a long story short since I have some experience tuning DSM's and pretty much don't have any reliable tuner near me (closest is 5 hrs away) I got bored one day and tired of looking at the Grimmspeed sitting in my room. I read up on Merlin's tuning guide to get a good idea of what was involved in adjusting the Grimmspeed and decided to give it a try. However, while I was scouring one of the forums I found the Cobb Stage 2+SF+CBCS 93 v201 OTS map that was still being tweaked but fully functional. Moreover, after comparing both the Grimmspeed and the Cobb 3 port BCS I found them to be very similar in appearance and if I recall even the nipples hook up in the same location! Armed with a fully functional wideband and capable boost gauge I decided to flash the aforementioned map to see if it would work and to my surprise it works very well with my setup! I peak at about 26 psi and taper to 24-25 psi to redline with no knock and my AFR was at about 11-11.2 at WOT. The latter is consistent with 4-6 pulls back to back. However, my question is as follows: Besides BOOST CONTROL LOAD OFFSET and BOOST TARGET ENGINE LOAD 1A High Gear Range, 1B High Gear Range and 2 Low Gear Range is there any other table that I would have to modify in AP to either increase or decrease boost? I know what cells to modify in the above parameters, however I am unsure whether there are any other parameters in addition to the above that need to be modified? That's it! The car runs perfect on 93 octane and I don't want to touch it, however when the cold weather comes I would like to know how to turn the boost down on my own. Also please understand that I did a very dangerous experiment on my own car but only because I was very confident and had a wideband and boost gauge to monitor my progress, I am in no way shape or form encouraging anyone else to do this because each car behaves differently and proceed at your own risk! I am just simply stating my observation that led to an experiment which luckily had a very positive outcome! I would just like someone with experience to chime in and answer my questions above and I should be good to go!
Thanks!
Alen N.
Thank You,
-Braden @ COBB
You can change the upwards correction if Im not mistaken, so u don't have to keep changing the parameters all the time.
Will this map work with aem intake as well? Also, I have the dw800cc, I changed the injector scaling. What else do I need to change?
Will this map work with aem intake as well? Also, I have the dw800cc, I changed the injector scaling. What else do I need to change?
Last edited by Panda_stunter; Aug 8, 2012 at 01:06 AM.
I'm thinking you would need to change the maf scaling as well
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Well, I was looking though all the maps beta and v108 pertaining 2010, and the only real difference is the maf scaling and my injector scaling since I'm running dw800.
So what I'm gonna do is start with the v108 and then port everything that is identical to every single map except for maf scaling and some other stuff. I'm gonna start with that and if my afr r still rich, I'm gonna tweak the fuel tables.
Docboz, u have the ATR so u can open the maps in it and u will see what I'm talking about. If u open AMS and Cobb sf intakes, almost everything is the same down to the reactive boost tables...only real difference is the maf scaling.
I'm gonna custom make a serial port for my boost and afr gauge so when I'm logging I can see both in the logs. I just have to find or buy an r232 9pin female serials first and then I'm gonna install the grim speed 3port and then I'll report back.
So what I'm gonna do is start with the v108 and then port everything that is identical to every single map except for maf scaling and some other stuff. I'm gonna start with that and if my afr r still rich, I'm gonna tweak the fuel tables.
Docboz, u have the ATR so u can open the maps in it and u will see what I'm talking about. If u open AMS and Cobb sf intakes, almost everything is the same down to the reactive boost tables...only real difference is the maf scaling.
I'm gonna custom make a serial port for my boost and afr gauge so when I'm logging I can see both in the logs. I just have to find or buy an r232 9pin female serials first and then I'm gonna install the grim speed 3port and then I'll report back.
Well, I was looking though all the maps beta and v108 pertaining 2010, and the only real difference is the maf scaling and my injector scaling since I'm running dw800.
So what I'm gonna do is start with the v108 and then port everything that is identical to every single map except for maf scaling and some other stuff. I'm gonna start with that and if my afr r still rich, I'm gonna tweak the fuel tables.
Docboz, u have the ATR so u can open the maps in it and u will see what I'm talking about. If u open AMS and Cobb sf intakes, almost everything is the same down to the reactive boost tables...only real difference is the maf scaling.
I'm gonna custom make a serial port for my boost and afr gauge so when I'm logging I can see both in the logs. I just have to find or buy an r232 9pin female serials first and then I'm gonna install the grim speed 3port and then I'll report back.
So what I'm gonna do is start with the v108 and then port everything that is identical to every single map except for maf scaling and some other stuff. I'm gonna start with that and if my afr r still rich, I'm gonna tweak the fuel tables.
Docboz, u have the ATR so u can open the maps in it and u will see what I'm talking about. If u open AMS and Cobb sf intakes, almost everything is the same down to the reactive boost tables...only real difference is the maf scaling.
I'm gonna custom make a serial port for my boost and afr gauge so when I'm logging I can see both in the logs. I just have to find or buy an r232 9pin female serials first and then I'm gonna install the grim speed 3port and then I'll report back.
I wanna see how u changed the fueling and timing tables.
I left the timing alone for now but I wanna change the fueling and lean out the map since its so rich. I'm gonna mess with timing when I'm logging and live tuning. I will advance the timing when I can and retard it when there's knock.
Hey docboz, can I see the map u tweaked?
I wanna see how u changed the fueling and timing tables.
I left the timing alone for now but I wanna change the fueling and lean out the map since its so rich. I'm gonna mess with timing when I'm logging and live tuning. I will advance the timing when I can and retard it when there's knock.
I wanna see how u changed the fueling and timing tables.
I left the timing alone for now but I wanna change the fueling and lean out the map since its so rich. I'm gonna mess with timing when I'm logging and live tuning. I will advance the timing when I can and retard it when there's knock.
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