Hey guys. Just picked up my EVO X 3 weeks ago. Since then I have been fixing little things here and there (clamps, dry rotted hoses, etc.) I purchased an AccessPort V3 and installed it a few days ago. From the research I did here and other places, I went ahead and loaded the Stage 3 91OCT map.

Since the flash, the car has thrown an ECU code for WG actuator...but there's a twist. After I clear the code I can drive for however long I want with no codes. Then after I shut the car off and turn it back on again, the WG code comes up. Also the car sometimes dips at idle from around 1000 to 750 rpms.

Other known issues (occurred before the flash) include over boosting (28-30psi) at night (which Ive only done once or twice) and the ASC light comes on. AFRs look good, with a few knocks as well under heavy load. Any suggestions? Should I try the Stage 3 91 OCT LWG map? (I live on Guam, so 91oct is the highest they sell off base, its hot as hell and humid temps. No dyno) Maybe throw in some octane booster??





2010 GSR
AMS intercooler
AMS charge pipes
COBB 3in turbo inlet
COBB TBE
COBB Catless TP
COBB Cold air intake
Godspeed 3port BS
STOCK BOV
(Dont know if the fuel pump has been changed, Injectors and fuel rail look OEM)


TIA

 

Yes the LWG stage 3 map would be the best place to start, this should help with the over boost.

The idle dip.... Does that only occur during a cold start? Ie after the car has been sitting overnight? If this is the case I had the same issue for a while, and I was able to track it down to a slightly incorrect map table (I made an error when updating the air intake calibration)

Also even if you have loaded the stage 3 LWG map, with the Cobb intake calibration, it always make sense to check it against the air intake calibration guide for the 2010+ To make sure all of the tables are correct.

Lastly the octane fuel type should be fine, given that a tune is there to support it, however if the quality of the fuel isn't great then you will always get knock, so an octane booster can sometimes be a good way of stabilising that bad fuel until you can find a better source...

 

You should really have that thing dynotuned with that cluster of parts. Don't know what your options are out in BFE though.

 

I flashed the LWG Map last night. Still runs the same the idle dip doesnt occur as often after a long period of driving (like 10-15 mins without stopping). I cant even do any WOT pulls for logging purposes because of the over boosting issue. Im basically controlling the boost with the gas pedal. I dont trust anyone here to look at my car for the simple fact that there are no actual "tuning/speed" shops on Guam.

 

There are only rumours of dynos here on Guam. The speed limit is 35mph and the drag strip isnt the best. So I suppose no one sees the need to invest in equipment that helps aftermarket cars run better if you arent supposed to go over 35mph

This really sucks because I can take the whole car apart and put it back together but when it comes to tuning and ECU's and air and fuel im lost.


according to COBB's website, the main differences between "Stage 2" and "Stage 3" is the quad tip exhaust , turbo inlet, and the 3 port boost solenoid right? Of those 3 mods the BCS being the main variable in the tune?

I understand the need of a protune but isnt the Stage 3 Cobb MAP designed for the exact parts im running? To run the car without a pro dyno tune?

Maybe my WG actuator is bad? bad sensor? seized? + leaky STOCK BOV?

 

I seem to remember my friend telling me about how ****ty the roads were over there and the low speed limit, so I feel your pain on that. It really limits what you can do. Some people may argue this but IMO anything you do, especially with the intake side of things and especially with this car is going to change your volumetric efficiency, therefore changing your tune. Throw that in there with tropical island heat and humidity basically at sea level and I would say the issues you are having are probably a combination of things. I have learned since getting my V3 a few weeks back that these cars tend to overboost in their stock condition. bad fuel, elevation, heat, humidity, intake and or intercooler upgrades not accounted for in the OTS maps.....that's my guess.
I would seriously consider checking the fuel system and have you made sure to change the relays? Pressure test? Unless you are laying down over 400 I wouldn't even think about changing the BOV. I run the stock evo BOV on my VR4 and its holding fine at 410 AWHP (superflow dyno) and I love it, I even sold the Greddy RZ I bought for it.

 

Yea its a headache but there are a few EVO X MR's on island with about the same mods and theyre running alright....Like I said im not the best when it comes to tuning and MAPS and stuff like that....so Im doing my research.

The only reason I say the stock BOV leaks is because of a thread on here I saw where a member pressure tested his Stock BOV and it leaked after 25psi. Not too sure on the wear factor but Guam destroys EVERYTHING thats metal plastic or rubber. Rust, dry rot, weathering, etc. So many factors I have to stand back and look at. Is the WG actuator rusted to the point where it doesnt move? Is something broken? Boost leak? etc. Ive tried to check these things but the naked eye cant see everything. Accoring to my AP im around 400hp LOL.

Anyways, Ive been speaking with a COBB tuner through emails. He suggests the 3 port EBCS I have could be causing some issues along with a leaky BOV...Is the Grimmspeed 3 port really that much different than the COBB 3 port?

 

with the car subjected to those kind of elements I would start by pressure testing. I use dawn soap and water in a spray bottle. listen of the hiss, go to where you think its coming from and spray it. If it blows bubbles you found part of your problem. I have not pressure tested mine yet, not sure of the procedure. On my VR4 there are things to plug and disconnect so you don't pressurize the crankcase. Oil dipstick turning into a projectile is no fun! If your leak free I would suspect the 3 port. Might want to flash down to stage 2 and see if that resolves your over boosting and light. I would be surprised if its the wastegate itself, but you never know.

 

sounds like a plan. Ill try it after this typhoon passes over Guam lol. That would be amazing if it was a boost leak. The COBB 3 port is only $100. And plus its a good idea to get rid of the EBAY/Amazon parts lol. Thanks for the advice man.