Good evening all,



I have a 2007 evo 9 its a 2.3 stroker, the prosport oil pressure gauge was playing about a little so i thought i'd do an oil change because i bought the car in feb and last owner serviced it back in jan 2020. I used Millers Oils CFS 10W50 NT+ Motorsport Engine Oil and a genuine Mitsubishi oil filter, but since the service there's a slight rattle on the top end on idle, like tappet noise. It may have been there before, but its definitely more noticeable now even with the bonnet closed, i have experienced any driving issues, however the oil pressure gauge is playing up a lot worse now too, its beeping at me and the 'peak' light flashes at higher rpm, this wasn't the case prior to the oil change.



I wanted to ask if anyone has experienced anything similar, did i miss something during the oil change or fitting the filter and is it also possible that my oil pressure gauge itself is faulty?



Has anyone else used Millers, should i just redo the oil change and use Fuchs Titan?



Many thanks

Pav

 

What oil did the previous owner use?

 

Hi Biggiesacks,

Unfortunately i couldn't confirm what oil the previous owners used, but im thinking it might be a good idea to use some some engine motor to flush to drain the Millers and then refill with Fuchs?

 

do you know who built the engine?

I don't know anything about those brands. What you want to watch out for though is racing oil has a different additive package than street driving oil. You don't want to use racing oil in a daily driving scenario because the additive package doesn't have the cleaning and conditioning stuff that street car oil does. Race engines are rebuilt often and don't need it. Some racing oils also have additives that can damage emissions systems, if that's something that is of concern to you. Oil is a rabbit hole, lots of research you can do. The best thing though would be to ask the engine builder what to use, because they set it up with something in mind.

 

i think you're probably right about the racing grade oil, i wanted to Fuchs originally so i'll do another engine oil change and then see how it goes. There might be a tappet bleeding procedure, because i think the oil i used is thicker and maybe taking longer to get into the tappets, does that make sense?

 

Sucks you can’t find the engine builder or build sheet to know the tolerances. If you street drive the car often as in its not just a race car, you need an oil with proper detergents in it as Biggie mentioned above.

I wouldn’t go through R&R the lifters or manually bleeding them out with diesel just yet, there is an in car bleeding procedure in the FSM.

Oil brand is not going to change anything just yet assuming using the same weight oil. I’d grab some cheaper conventional or cheaper syn-blend oil. Considering it’s built grab a 10w-40 and a 20w-50. Start with the 10w-40 and perform the in car lifter bleeding procedure as outlined in the FSM, if that quiets it up and/or disappears completely. Dump it and use a High Quality Synthetic non racing 10w40.

If no change after procedure and a quick spin with the 10w-40 dump that and fill with the cheaper conventional or syn blend 20w50 and perform the same in car bleeding procedure. If the 20w-50 does the trick, dump it and refill with a High Quality Synthetic non racing 20w-50.


One of the above should resolve your issue. Also, I would absolutely not use any type or form of parts store or internet special “engine flush” fluid in you crank case ever.

Hope you got it resolved!!

 

If it is a loud ticking sound, the most likely source is the valvetrain, but the reason for that ticking isnt always clear.

 

Miller oils contain all the proper detergents and additives to be used as a street oil. Nothing to fear there.

The physical oil pressure reading is more important than the light, and the lifter situation will probably be resolved with some driving.

 

Agreed the lifters may need to be bled out if you want it solved quicker, but either way the 4g63 motors are pretty noisy.

 

What oil did the previous owner use?