Advice on engine mounts for drag racing?
Advice on engine mounts for drag racing?
I've noticed that with only a firm FMM on my Evo that my engine/trans still move quite a bit under power and when I lift.
My question is.... what engine mounts are most effective at improving the shiftability of the transmission?
Have you guys noticed a huge improvement with solid/rigit mounts rather than the OEM mounts?
I realize that the NVH will be worse, but I figure I only drag race a few times a year...and I could probably deal with the rough mounts when I'm at the track.
thanks for the advice ahead of time.
_Eric
My question is.... what engine mounts are most effective at improving the shiftability of the transmission?
Have you guys noticed a huge improvement with solid/rigit mounts rather than the OEM mounts?
I realize that the NVH will be worse, but I figure I only drag race a few times a year...and I could probably deal with the rough mounts when I'm at the track.
thanks for the advice ahead of time.
_Eric
With just a front mount(first the blox mount, then the buschur bar), mine did move a bit too. Personally of the few combos I tried, including the "engine damper" just the front mount was the best mix for me. I ended up breaking the engine damper as well lol. Honestly I couldn't tell if it was on the car or on a shelf.
I still drive my car on the street and do enjoy hearing myself think
I still drive my car on the street and do enjoy hearing myself think
Hey Ernie I love the build, but the combo that has been working for me is a solid boomba front mount and torque solutions passenger and drivers side. I used to have all four in, but the vibration on take off that went thru the steering wheel was annoying while trying to let off the clutch. The TS are a 75 durameter, and the boomba I am not to sure what durameter it is, but it def is stiff.
So, I'm trying to say, for a few trips to the track a year, you can probably do just the front mount, and not have to worry about swapping anything and just drive it on the street that way too.
I have the FMM...and it still moves quite a bit. I'll look at doing more mounts to drag race and then take them out when I don't. I'd like to get a good pass regardless of setup time
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For shifting if you dont have them already the base shifter mounts inside the cab in metal, and the under the hood bushings on the trans to shifter cable. Those will help alot with the feel of your shifts. As for mounts for the trans and motor I would do all of them. People will argue one over the other but I have the prothain in my talon and they are rock solid. Very little movement and if that isn't enough get solid billit ones. Hope that helps some.
go for just a front motor mount. the blox one or avid i know is good. that should help out and wont make it too loud or give a ton of vibration but you will get some its a solid mount...
I only had the blox front motor mount in my evo, made a huge difference in shifting and how the car reacted.
We had the blox front motor mount in my buddies evo then switched to all 4 prothanes and didn't notice any noticeable gains from it other then the vibration that came from all 4 mounts. I always suggest to people to just doing the front motor mount, the rear one can be changed too but it's not a huge change, the biggest change is the front one that makes the big difference.
We had the blox front motor mount in my buddies evo then switched to all 4 prothanes and didn't notice any noticeable gains from it other then the vibration that came from all 4 mounts. I always suggest to people to just doing the front motor mount, the rear one can be changed too but it's not a huge change, the biggest change is the front one that makes the big difference.
Eric, I made some "stiffer" mounts out of the passenger side mount and the trans mount... I drilled some big holes all the way around them and filled them with liquid urethane from McMaster Carr... they have held up rather well for the past 2 years and created a tad more vibration, but nothing unbearable... and the liquid urethane is only like $35, and its black
Coming from a dsm background I learned that just replacing the rear mount and the front roll control mount and leaving the other 2 mounts stock worked perfect. I have yet to do this on my evo. So it may not be the same as on a dsm. I am going to give it a try
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