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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 07:36 AM
  #16  
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Interesting. I did two turns on the actuater and that gave it about 1-2mm of pre load.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 07:40 AM
  #17  
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That sounds about right. 1-2psi of spike is within the "normal" range.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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Al...I sent you money via paypal last week for the MBC.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:36 AM
  #19  
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From: 2003 Evo VIII - Silver
Originally Posted by SuperchargedGTZ
Al...I sent you money via paypal last week for the MBC.
All orders shipped out today !
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 02:34 PM
  #20  
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Al - BTW - I won one of these beauties at the shootout at Etown.
It's sitting here all shiny in the box, but there is one thing missing - the instruction sheet.
So here is a simple question anyone that has one can answer - which is the input port??
If I had to guess, it would be the bottom port.
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 05:20 AM
  #21  
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Quoted from another thread:

Originally Posted by Mike@Forge
The bottom port (linear to the body) is the inlet port. The side port (perpendicular to the body) is the outlet port.
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 05:38 AM
  #22  
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From: St. Charles, IL
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I have 5 in bound which should be in tommorow - they are all black (nice color)
So would you be able to put one aside for me and bring it to Chicago when you flash my car this weekend?

-Dave
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 05:39 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Your car is perfect with the way it is set it holds 21.5 and falls to 19 at red line

No need to change the spring unless you are running more boost on race gas

You're right "perfect" is a pretty good way to describe it. I do have the Buschur "race chip" and was going to use it along with some race gas at the track this Wednesday. I looked at the MBC and it seems pretty self explanatory about the spring change. Thanks again.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 04:02 PM
  #24  
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I would really appreciate it if there is anyone out there who can break this install down bobo style. Here's what I've gained so far:

material needed should be two lengths of vacuum tubing

the connections are from the turbo discharge to the inlet port (bottom port, linear to the body), and from the outlet port (perpendicular to the body) to the wastegate

I looked at the link to the Hallman instructions, but it seems that that doesn't do me much good since Al is saying to hook it up differently. Are there any hoses that need to be removed doing this way, or any restrictor pills or anything?

my other question is where are these points (i.e. turbo discharge, wastegate connection) located? do you have to go from under the car to access them? pics would be great.

Sorry if I sound like an idiot, I'm just not used to stuff like this having no instructions whatsoever.
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 08:00 PM
  #25  
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Think I may have answered my own question. This thread contains a little more detailed instructions and some pics: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=116017Still not sure if I'm going to attempt this one on my own or not - if there is anyone near Lexington, VA who is interested in helping out, there is some free beer in it for ya.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 05:50 AM
  #26  
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I used the above thread for the pics/diagrams. It is actually pretty simple once you start pulling things apart. When you take off the stock airbox you will see the boost control solenoid . . . it is incorrectly called the wastegate actuator in the above how-to. The solenoid is in the 2nd real pic, not diagram, in the how-to.

YOu will remove the two vacumm lines from the solenoid and cap them w/ either vacumm port caps (can get at any autoparts store) or cut a small piece of hose and connect one end to each port on the solenoid. You will also need to cap the the intake pipe where the other end of the hose that goes from the boost solenoid to the intake pipe ends.

Then take your two hoses and run one from the turbo (where u disconnected the hose from the boost solenoid earlier) to the inlet port on the MBC and the other hose from the wastegate (again, where u disconnected the hose from the boost solenoid) to the outlet port on the MBC.

Just follow the 2nd diagram in that Hallman how-to. Btw, it is much easier to go from the bottom IMO. You just have to take out 3 real screws and handful of those nylon screws.
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 07:39 AM
  #27  
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You dont need to remove the one hose that goes from the stock wastegate solenoid to the MAF pipe. That hose is a bleed hose for the factory boost solenoid. If you cap off the other port to the wastegate solenoid, then that hose never sees any airflow. That is one less step and 2 less caps that are required. It also makes it easier to switch back to the stock setup if need be.

The only slight problem to me in the install is the differences in the nipple sizes on the stock IC pressure source and the wastegate actuator relative to the FORGE UNOS unit. I used a vacuum reducer to upsize the hoses to fit better on the UNOS.

Another note: it is much better to take of the stock boost hose (the one with the T that runs from the wastegate actuator to the pressure source) in one piece. That boost hose assembly contains a restrictor in one of the lines which allows the stock boost setup to obtain 20 psi. If you destroy this assembly, when you try to put it back to stock for some reason, if you dont reuse this hose assembly, the boost will only go to 14 psi. Keep this in mind for the future.

This unit works extremely well.

Brian
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 07:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by coastal96
Quoted from another thread:
Thanks !!
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 07:41 PM
  #29  
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hey al i paypaled u when these first came out for the polished one but then i sent u an email that i wanted the black one instead n u replied back that u are goin to hold my paypal money n send me a black one when it comes...my email is jason_the_@minister.com can u gimme an update on mine?
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 11:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TURBODAWG
You dont need to remove the one hose that goes from the stock wastegate solenoid to the MAF pipe. That hose is a bleed hose for the factory boost solenoid. If you cap off the other port to the wastegate solenoid, then that hose never sees any airflow. That is one less step and 2 less caps that are required. It also makes it easier to switch back to the stock setup if need be.
yeah, I guess you are right. I didn't think of that. Oh well. I had a bunch of extra caps laying around so no big deal.

The only slight problem to me in the install is the differences in the nipple sizes on the stock IC pressure source and the wastegate actuator relative to the FORGE UNOS unit. I used a vacuum reducer to upsize the hoses to fit better on the UNOS.
I ran into the same problem. You can't find a vacumm hose that fits onto the UNOS and gets a tight fit on the wastegate or turbo. I used some 5/32 hose and just used clamps on the wastegate and turbo.
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