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Old Sep 24, 2005 | 01:43 PM
  #31  
EJ20T's Avatar
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From: NC
Got mine one...pretty simple really. I'm holding a solid 20 psi to redline with the light spring.
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 09:22 PM
  #32  
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From: indi
Al, you sent me the polished UNOS MBC instead of the requested anodized black unit. I want the boost controller in the car but I wanted black. What can you do?
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 12:08 AM
  #33  
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From: SoCal
OK i'm having a big problem with my MBC... first I tried softer spring and it can only hold boost up to like 18psi so I tried stiffer springs and at the minimum it starts at 22psi....
Is there any medium spring? what should I do?
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 10:39 AM
  #34  
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From: SoCal
I fixed the problem! it was a stiff spring not being fully inserted to the top portion so it was being extra stiff.
Right now MBC works PERFECT! Good product!
But soft spring is usless though as it only holds upto 17psi on my car... but a stiff spring works perfectly fine just like hallman MBC with stiff spring!
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 12:23 PM
  #35  
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From: indi
I'm hitting 1.65 bar on the lowest setting of the stiff spring. It will taper to about 1.4 bar and holds it there. This is normal right? Otherwise, I think this thing works great! Kudos to forge.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 02:41 PM
  #36  
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by kimletrim
I'm hitting 1.65 bar on the lowest setting of the stiff spring. It will taper to about 1.4 bar and holds it there. This is normal right? Otherwise, I think this thing works great! Kudos to forge.
That's what exaxtly happned to me when I first tried stiff spring but I fixed it.

When you install stiff spring, make sure stiff spring goes over the top post and set on compelety. Don't just drop spring into bottom tray and close. Spring is supposed to tighlty goes over the top part.
You will know what I'm talking about once you open up the MBC and try both soft spring and stiff spring on the top part. Soft spring goes right over to the post but stiff spring goes over it pretty tight.
It's kinda hard to describe but you will see...

Stiff spring holds boost so much better!
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #37  
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From: indi
I know what you are talking about since I tried to get the stiff spring to fit over the post. But it wasn't very easy like you said, so I tried it with it just resting on top of the post. Thanks for the info!
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 01:02 PM
  #38  
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From: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
Got mine on this afternoon. Holding a steady 20-21 psi with the stiffer spring, and all I can say is WOW - this is awesome! Big thanks to coastal96 and TURBODAWG for all of the good advice.

Chad
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #39  
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From: SO CAL 626
what lengths of vaccuum hosing do you need to install? and do you just go to kragen or autozone and ask for 5/32 vaccuum hose? does it matter what kind?
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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 05:00 PM
  #40  
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From: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
you just need 5/32" vacuum hosing - I got mine from NAPA. They had it in a 6' package - it was plenty. I cut it in half, and had to cut almost a foot off of each length, so I would say two pieces, each about 2.5 feet will be good.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #41  
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From: Kohler, WI
Originally Posted by hardt45
Got mine on this afternoon. Holding a steady 20-21 psi with the stiffer spring, and all I can say is WOW - this is awesome! Big thanks to coastal96 and TURBODAWG for all of the good advice.

Chad
Just curious, do you hold boost at 20-21psi all the way to redline in all gears? I would think 1st and 2nd would be hardest to hold boost.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 10:06 AM
  #42  
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From: Columbia, SC
Somebody should post a "How-To" with pics specifically for the Forge.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 08:43 AM
  #43  
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From: Orlando FL
Crap, this is my first time seeing this thread!

Al, I need to check your forum more often!

8thWonder, I actually had planned on doing a detailed writeup (for the Evo specifically and maybe an STI later on) on some friend's cars when they gets a chance to come in and have me help them. Hopefully soon!

white777, there will always be a minimal amount of boost tapering with the stock actuator on the stock turbo. It's caused by a multitude of factors, but amazingly our actuator pretty much eliminates any and all tapering from what most peoplem seem to be experiencing.

For most everyone, I have worked up a basic instruction sheet outlining some of the finer points of install and changing the springs. For those of you that already have your units and have done the install, this is too little too late, and I'm sorry. For everyone still yet to purchase a unit, the instruction sheet will be included from this point forward.

Whan changing the springs, the first and possibly second coil of the spring DOES need to be seated around the adjuster base. Obviously the units will sometimes fail to function properly if this is not done. This is specified in the instruction sheet.

Concerning vacuum tubing, we stock a wide range of universal tubing that can be purchased in conjunction with a boost controller if desired. Otherwise, it can be sourced separately on your own. My recommendation would be the 3mm or 4mm (bore size) kind and it is available in 3 meter lengths in Red, Blue, or Black. Al can source this tubing for anyone if they wish. I don't think he has any in stock right now, though.
http://siliconhoses.com/content.asp?...2VC&cat=0022VC

Bump for Al helping us to promote these!

(Also, Black units are being anodized again now. I should have them to distribute in about 2 weeks.)
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 05:56 AM
  #44  
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From: Jacksonville Fl
I'm holding a solid 21-22psi without the use of an MBC but with your nice boost controlling feature -- think I could squeeze a lil more outta it without tapering?
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #45  
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From: Schaumburg, IL
Yet another MBC installation

Originally Posted by TURBODAWG
You dont need to remove the one hose that goes from the stock wastegate solenoid to the MAF pipe. That hose is a bleed hose for the factory boost solenoid. If you cap off the other port to the wastegate solenoid, then that hose never sees any airflow. That is one less step and 2 less caps that are required. It also makes it easier to switch back to the stock setup if need be.
Looking at the previously discussed diagram and using the info from TURBODAWG, I simplified the installation to removing and capping only two vacuum lines(turbo and wastegate) and left everything else installed. See attached modification of diagram originally posted by https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...0&page=2&pp=15

I have installed my Forge UNOS MBC this way and it appears to be holding boost just fine. I have not been able to thoroughly test it yet, its pouring rain tonight and its the end of the month(too many POPO out on the streets).

Anybody have any thoughts......
Attached Thumbnails Forge MBC install and use notes-mbc-20small-jak.jpg  
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