The logs that you posted are inadequate as an indication of knock. On one log you only go WOT beginning @ 4000 rpm. You need to start your log @ 2500 rpm so you can load your engine and turbo @ 3500-3900 rpm peak boost/torque. That is where you get the lowest timing in the stock map and the highest load in your load cell. That is also where the highest likelihood of knock. Do a proper log (from 2500 to 7500) and then tell us if you have knock counts or not. That log should provide you with the proof if 8* of timing @ peak boost/torque causes knock or not.

 

Good call...

 

Adequate for how I drive though, but the bottom line is the clutch is bad (see the RPM in the log), anything else below 3700 rpm would have caused it to slip all the way up.


Here's an older log, that starts at 2800rpm, knock is occurring as timing transitions from 22* to 11*, and then at 9* flat (from 200% on up to 260%) the knock stops

 

Since you live in CT I think your best option is to meet up with me and I can adjust your map as needed in person

What sort of map do you have now - E FLASH ! - Base Map or Custom Tuned ?\\

 

BTW - just for reference - I have seen maps that not only fix the low end and mid range to a flat 8 or 7 degrees - - I have seen maps on stand alone ecus which have the entire ignition table FIXED at say 12 or 15 degrees (NO I dont offer those myself)

Fixing the timing at a range BELOW the knock threshold and near MBT makes for a real smooth power curve

Kind of like my flat dyno sheets so many have seen . . . .

And a nice butt feeling as well

Remember its not what you put in the table - its how the car runs

All you haters need to go out and do something FUN

I have been stuck the last two days tuning Subarus on of all things a brand new Dyno Dymanics dyno - man its a great dyno

BTW - I have discovered that at the end of each pull I can manipulate the number on this dyno by simply adjusting the "correction factor' - I switched my STI from 360 whp to 380 by simply altering this factor - this wqas a real eye opener

Also - with NO correction factor the dyno dymanics dyno reads the same as the pruven dyno jet

Al

 

dyno dynamics > all

 

For my next log, in your sake, I'll go out and log the car in conditions not even the stock car was designed to see ( but was provided with low timing as you stated in that area for those careless or dumb enough to do so).

Or, better yet, why dont you properly load your engine during a log in fifth at 2500 RPM climbing up some scenic canyon with a 9% grade using that 91 octane and malfunctioning boost guage you payed someone $250 to install.

Sorry to interupt your thumb sucking

 

Don't get offended, but there is a proper way and improper way to do a log and what you posted is not proper. First you post a log that starts @ 4000 rpm and then you post a log with a slipping clutch. Both of these are not adequate ways to collect data.

I am not asking you to do a log in 5th gear or to go up an incline in that gear. Just go to the nearest flat freeway on ramp and go WOT in 3rd gear from 2500-2700 rpm to around 7400-7500 rpm. Oh, and make sure that your clutch is not slipping.

 

Just leave him be, dont pay attention to his data thats all.

 

I did

see post 78 attached log.

Look, when the cluch is finally in, with two hours a day available to work on the thing - next week, I will come back to this thread and attach a log performed within your standards of extreem conditions, just so wee can witness how timing goes 25* to 15* from 80% to 120% load

 

Al,

I sent you an email to info@dynoflash.com. I am custom tuned by you at Pruven. This was pre-eflash.

On my mods list I forgot to put that I have a Walbro FP. My car has not had any change in mods since you tuned it.