Got a wideband... Some help with my AFRs
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From: New Hampshire, USA
Got a wideband... Some help with my AFRs
Hey guys.
Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to help others with their tune.
I received a custom dyno tune last month that is suspect, because my car is definitely underpowered. I already dialed in more timing, and now I'm troubleshooting AFR.
I got a brand new, Innovate LC-1 Kit. I am not running a cat, so I put it in place of my rear O2. The sensor is spaced away from the pipe using a non-fouler, as per the instruction of my dealer who says rich AFRs will kill the sensor.
I followed installation instructions EXACTLY, and performed proper free-air calibration. I programmed both outputs to be full wideband (7.x to 22.x, 0v to 5v).
My mods are in my sig, and these are my results:




Thanks in advance to everyone who takes the time to help others with their tune.
I received a custom dyno tune last month that is suspect, because my car is definitely underpowered. I already dialed in more timing, and now I'm troubleshooting AFR.
I got a brand new, Innovate LC-1 Kit. I am not running a cat, so I put it in place of my rear O2. The sensor is spaced away from the pipe using a non-fouler, as per the instruction of my dealer who says rich AFRs will kill the sensor.
I followed installation instructions EXACTLY, and performed proper free-air calibration. I programmed both outputs to be full wideband (7.x to 22.x, 0v to 5v).
My mods are in my sig, and these are my results:




Thread Starter
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From: New Hampshire, USA
i've never heard of spacing out the sensor with the fouler i know several people that run the same wideband you have and closer to the turbo then you and their's read perfect just plugged into the bung..... try that and make another log
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Well, according to Innovate, the ONLY time a wideband will read richer than actual is if it's under substantial exhaust pressure (ie., too close to manifold)
spacing the sensor will cause problems... it needs that air to be hitting it or itll read off...
i had a friend i tuned put his o2 sensor in a ultimate racing cel fix bung and his afrs were reading off as well.
Most exhaust shops will charge 15-25 to have a bung welded in.. put it from the 9 oclock around the top to the 3oclock area. towards the back of the downpipe.
Cheers!
i had a friend i tuned put his o2 sensor in a ultimate racing cel fix bung and his afrs were reading off as well.
Most exhaust shops will charge 15-25 to have a bung welded in.. put it from the 9 oclock around the top to the 3oclock area. towards the back of the downpipe.
Cheers!
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from what I can see from your graphs there is a logging issue.
I don't think you need to place the wideband sensor in an antifouler.
unless you are using an analog output you don't need to "correct" the output of the LC-1, simply connect the serial cable to the laptop.
try the default output from the serial cable without an anti fouler and see if your readings make more sense.
I don't think you need to place the wideband sensor in an antifouler.
unless you are using an analog output you don't need to "correct" the output of the LC-1, simply connect the serial cable to the laptop.
try the default output from the serial cable without an anti fouler and see if your readings make more sense.
You need to place your sensor @ the end of the downpipe. Placing the sensor in the secondary O2 bung in the exhuast mid-pipe risks O2 contamination from exhaust leask giving you false readings.
Go to an exhaust shop and have them weld a bung at the end of the downpipe before your Cat in the 3 oclock position from the passanger side.
Go to an exhaust shop and have them weld a bung at the end of the downpipe before your Cat in the 3 oclock position from the passanger side.
Yeah try to get the wideband reading from the correct place first. Mine sits at the end of the downpipe right before the cat (cause I still have one). It might also be best to dial the AFR first before messing with the timing. If the AFR is off, and you have to go and change it you then more than likely have to go back and change timing again anyway.
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OK, to all the people saying I need to put it on the downpipe...
That is complete baloney... you can get perfectly good readings all the way back in the tailpipe if you have no cat, as long as it isn't at the very end.
The non-fouler may very well be screwing up my readings, so I'll take that off tomorrow and re-calibrate.
That is complete baloney... you can get perfectly good readings all the way back in the tailpipe if you have no cat, as long as it isn't at the very end.
The non-fouler may very well be screwing up my readings, so I'll take that off tomorrow and re-calibrate.






