I thought I read you got all that squared away...

Bring the pupra, there tech is a joke. as long as you have a steering wheel and a seat you'll pass.

 

Nope not squared away. Right after I realized it was leaking I went to hawaii for work, now I am home again and trying to get her back on the road..I am doing a few things to the car because I am getting knock alot sooner then I would like and have a few things suspect..Not only that but I have a wedding to go to for the next 2 weeks..

 

Ok guys, whats the best settings to use for the cel on knock flashing ?

Currently I have it set to:

KnockSum Required for CEL: 3
Load Required for CEL on Knock: 125%
CEL on Knock flash time: 2000ms

Do these settings sound about right, to make sure things are reasonably safe ? but at the same time, not bringing the cel on when there is no harm being done ?

 

I am having a slight problem with the ROMS. I can not seem to get the new tables to show up in ECUFlash? I assume I need to copy and paster the .xml files into the metadate file and then download and open the appropiate ROM file in order for the tables to appear? I also changed within ECUFlash the file in which the metadata is gathered so that it is taken from the C:/programfiles folder for the metedata.

I upgraded to ECUFlash v1.33.1426 just before I downloaded the NLTS info.

Any suggestions? I'm sure its something elementary but, I must be a kindergardener right now :-)

 

^^^ I would use a higher load. Something closer to where you are at WOT.

I have mine set to 220 load, 3* of knock, 3000ms.

Having it set below 140 may produce flashing from phantom knock.

 

Another request for patch for ROM# 88570008

 

I have similar settings.

 

Cheers

I just didn't want to have it set so high, that by the time the cel flashes, damage may have already started, if you know what I mean.

 

I have mine set at 100 load, so anything involving boost is monitored. I have mine set to 4 mainly because I never get more than 3 counts of knock in the lower load range from phantom knocks. If I hit 4 counts or more, its usually the real deal.

 

Going back the NLTS real quick, on a post made by 4TUNEVO8 I decided to lower the rpm drop to 100 to see how the car reacted. It only dropped 6psi between shifts (24 to 18) with the Green. Maybe a little more aggressive than most people need but it definitely is the way to go at the track (or crazy people like us on the street).

Knocklite- 220/4/1250 more or less like everyone else so far.

 

Hmm, something to think about when I hit the track. I'll try both settings a few times each

 

Any help guys? I simply cannot figure out why I can't get the new tables to show up in ECUFlash. I searched every page and did what others suggested.

I found the correct .xml file, downloaded it and saved it into my metadate folder. I then cut and paste the new NLTS .xml ROM info into the correct ROM .xml file for my ECU. After that I downloaded the NLTS .hex file. I opened the .hex file via ECUFlash but, no new tables?

Needless to say I am stuck, confused and jealous of hearing how badass the NLTS mod is. Please help.

 

Any help guys? I simply cannot figure out why I can't get the new tables to show up in ECUFlash. I searched every page and did what others suggested.

I found the correct .xml file, downloaded it and saved it into my metadate folder. I then cut and paste the new NLTS .xml ROM info into the correct ROM .xml file for my ECU. After that I downloaded the NLTS .hex file. I opened the .hex file via ECUFlash but, no new tables?

Needless to say I am stuck, confused and jealous of hearing how badass the NLTS mod is. Please help.

 

after u cut and paste the nlts xml and save it to your rom xml, close the ecuflash program first than open it up again...than open the nlts rom. u should see the it in both your ecu rom and the nlts rom.

if the above doesnt works, i also dunno how to assist..maybe others can chime in..

 

Just happened to come across this while browsing.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=260040

I think the last two pics in the second post shows the upper clutch switch assembly. I know someone said they adjusted theirs for a less sensative result. I haven't looked up under there yet but I just wanted to throw this in the thread just in case.