PATCH: NLTS + Valet + KnockCEL
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
I think i rambled on and my questions got lost ill try sift out my crap 
can you set a statement that says if valet mode is on NLTS is disabled ?
On a second note is the fuel cut damaging in any way? the valet mode cut is pretty harsh when it cuts in, car really jerks which I guess you would expect but with NLTS fuel cut up high I dunno my gut says it can’t be good but could be totally wrong?
I know when I was driving round Europe we had a Renault scenic hire car and you could set a speed limit and it was very smooth you could stand on the accelerator and it just wouldn’t go above that set speed with no jerking in any way, can that can be implemented or is fuel cut the only method?
On a second note is the fuel cut damaging in any way? the valet mode cut is pretty harsh when it cuts in, car really jerks which I guess you would expect but with NLTS fuel cut up high I dunno my gut says it can’t be good but could be totally wrong?
I know when I was driving round Europe we had a Renault scenic hire car and you could set a speed limit and it was very smooth you could stand on the accelerator and it just wouldn’t go above that set speed with no jerking in any way, can that can be implemented or is fuel cut the only method?
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
and Dave is the fuel cut harsh for the car or perfectly fine?
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
Bugga... didnt think so but if you dont ask you never know woulda been nice...
Ive set the rev limiter to 300 so the car wont start when engaged and the NLTS threshold to 95% seems to work quite well ... but i think im killing my clutch now *gulp*
woulda been nice... Ive set the rev limiter to 300 so the car wont start when engaged and the NLTS threshold to 95% seems to work quite well ... but i think im killing my clutch now *gulp*
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
dunno just felt some slipping but it seems fine now..... the day i was testing it i was getting slippage in 4th gear ... going about 80km/hr put my foot down and revs went up but car went no where... went easy for a few days and it seems fine now
I think the hard reving to test and quick gear shifts is helping me to wear out my clutch.
I think the hard reving to test and quick gear shifts is helping me to wear out my clutch.
Try adjusting the clutch pedal to compensate for the wear so you still get full engagement before going and buying a new clutch. Simple write-up in the HOW-To section if you need it.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
Looking at the description
"To move the rod higher and increase travel (move engagement up), turn the rod clockwise. To reduce the travel (move engagement down), turn the rod counter-clockwise."
I'm guessing I need to turn the rod counter clockwise to move engagement lower??
I have never liked the clockwise/counterclockwise directions for the clutch rod. People look at it differently for some reason, and clockwise to one person is not clockwise to the other. To make it engage higher, you need the more travel at the master, so you need to "lengthen" the rod (screw it out away from the pedal). To make it engage lower, you want less travel at the master, so screw the rod "in" to "shorten" it. If you take a look at it and think about what the parts are doing this will all make perfect sense, however you decided to look at the directionality of rod adjustments...
Got this installed today and it works perfectly. Coming from AEM, and DSMlink before that, and TMO chips from Todd Day waaaaaay before that, NLTS is an absolute must and I can't live without it. This is the first implementation I have seen that uses an RPM drop rather than a fixed RPM limit, but it seems to do the same job. This makes running a stock ECU 100 times more liveable, I'm almost looking forward to tuning this thing further.
Donation sent. Buy something nice for the GF, or the boss, or whatever. I know how much these projects can interfere with any attempt at a normal life. Thanks again.
To make it engage higher, you need the more travel at the master, so you need to "lengthen" the rod (screw it out away from the pedal). To make it engage lower, you want less travel at the master, so screw the rod "in" to "shorten" it. If you take a look at it and think about what the parts are doing this will all make perfect sense, however you decided to look at the directionality of rod adjustments...Got this installed today and it works perfectly. Coming from AEM, and DSMlink before that, and TMO chips from Todd Day waaaaaay before that, NLTS is an absolute must and I can't live without it. This is the first implementation I have seen that uses an RPM drop rather than a fixed RPM limit, but it seems to do the same job. This makes running a stock ECU 100 times more liveable, I'm almost looking forward to tuning this thing further.
Donation sent. Buy something nice for the GF, or the boss, or whatever. I know how much these projects can interfere with any attempt at a normal life. Thanks again.
