New Ecuflash user has a few questions.
New Ecuflash user has a few questions.
1: Should i be logging in 3rd gear or 4th?, i have a 6spd.
2: When i log 2-byte load, and i am looking at a load of 230-236, and i want to retard timing to get rid of some knock.. would i want to change the 220 or 240 load column?
3: If i retard timing, will that affect my A/F ratio? Because i don't have a wideband yet. Is it safe to retard timing and not worry about running too lean. My tuner gave me an excellent, safe tune, so im not really concerned with my A/F at the moment. Just trying to get rid of a little knock.
4: How do you determine how much boost to run? Is it just from experience? What would be the difference between running 20PSI w/ more aggressive timing Vs. 22PSI w/ less timing? What would make more hp and tq.?
5: What is block tuning, does it relate to A/F or timing maps? Anyone got an example they would like to share?
BTW, i did search. And i spend too much damn time in this Ecuflash subtopic .
Thx
2: When i log 2-byte load, and i am looking at a load of 230-236, and i want to retard timing to get rid of some knock.. would i want to change the 220 or 240 load column?
3: If i retard timing, will that affect my A/F ratio? Because i don't have a wideband yet. Is it safe to retard timing and not worry about running too lean. My tuner gave me an excellent, safe tune, so im not really concerned with my A/F at the moment. Just trying to get rid of a little knock.
4: How do you determine how much boost to run? Is it just from experience? What would be the difference between running 20PSI w/ more aggressive timing Vs. 22PSI w/ less timing? What would make more hp and tq.?
5: What is block tuning, does it relate to A/F or timing maps? Anyone got an example they would like to share?
BTW, i did search. And i spend too much damn time in this Ecuflash subtopic .
Thx
I log, 3rd for basic tuning, adjustments, but after I am done I log all gears, since you use all gears. Not sure about the timing/afr relationship. I look at the column(excel, spreadsheet, etc.) where the knock appears, go one before that and cross that with two byte load/timing/rpm figure and adjust that cell, so It may be the 220 cell or the 240, but I aim for steady progression between cells also. Boost is pretty much open for debate, have not heard one definitive answer other than find a boost that you plan on running for your fuel and tune for it.
Last edited by fastrob691; Nov 7, 2007 at 12:59 PM.
Third gear is probably representative enough; topping out fourth gear means you'll be hauling *** at the end of the logging run, probably not so good for your driving record. 
Block tuning = "crazy eights". A certain well-known tuner has a reputation for selecting a large block in their customer's timing maps and changing it all to eights or nines. This is usually accompanied by copying the high octane maps to the low octane maps and other curiosities. Some people like the idea of "block tuning" timing because it gives a more consistent result; dramatic changes in timing usually result in knock.

Block tuning = "crazy eights". A certain well-known tuner has a reputation for selecting a large block in their customer's timing maps and changing it all to eights or nines. This is usually accompanied by copying the high octane maps to the low octane maps and other curiosities. Some people like the idea of "block tuning" timing because it gives a more consistent result; dramatic changes in timing usually result in knock.
So im running 22psi of boost on an IX with TBE. Lets say im hitting 2byte load of 236 at 3400rpm and it shows knock there. I should retard timing in the 3000rpm 220 and 240 blocks? Do you guys try to keep these 220 and 240 blocks the same?, since it seems like the smallest change in boost, and you could hit either block/
So im running 22psi of boost on an IX with TBE. Lets say im hitting 2byte load of 236 at 3400rpm and it shows knock there. I should retard timing in the 3000rpm 220 and 240 blocks? Do you guys try to keep these 220 and 240 blocks the same?, since it seems like the smallest change in boost, and you could hit either block/
If you look at the timing being hit when the knock occurs you should be able to tell which cell the ECU is in. If the timing comes from the 220 block then its 220 and vice-versa. If it falls dead in the middle then its interpolating and if you just lower the higher of the two values that should effectively lower the timing at this point in the log.
Also is this repeatable? If you do the run a few times will it knock in this exact area? And the timing in the columns can be the same or different it just depends on the car itself.
There really is no value to check, if you look at the "afr" tables for fuel it shows numbers as low as 8:1 afr. Keep in mind these are just numbers and aren't the actual afr. The only way you can really tell is to log with a widewand to see exactly where it sits...the column that might say "8:1" afr might just show up as 11.7 or leaner in real life. Check into an Innovate Lc-1 for a good cheap unit, IMO well worth the money spent and it will be the single most valuable tool you ever buy for your car.
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Third gear is probably representative enough; topping out fourth gear means you'll be hauling *** at the end of the logging run, probably not so good for your driving record. 
Block tuning = "crazy eights". A certain well-known tuner has a reputation for selecting a large block in their customer's timing maps and changing it all to eights or nines. This is usually accompanied by copying the high octane maps to the low octane maps and other curiosities. Some people like the idea of "block tuning" timing because it gives a more consistent result; dramatic changes in timing usually result in knock.

Block tuning = "crazy eights". A certain well-known tuner has a reputation for selecting a large block in their customer's timing maps and changing it all to eights or nines. This is usually accompanied by copying the high octane maps to the low octane maps and other curiosities. Some people like the idea of "block tuning" timing because it gives a more consistent result; dramatic changes in timing usually result in knock.
under other curiosities would it include only tuning 1/4 of the map, and oddities like random islands of harsh transitions and lean/rich/lean/rich all the way thru?
Cause that tune made my car really fun to drive.
I loved it. Honest.
There really is no value to check, if you look at the "afr" tables for fuel it shows numbers as low as 8:1 afr. Keep in mind these are just numbers and aren't the actual afr. The only way you can really tell is to log with a widewand to see exactly where it sits...the column that might say "8:1" afr might just show up as 11.7 or leaner in real life. Check into an Innovate Lc-1 for a good cheap unit, IMO well worth the money spent and it will be the single most valuable tool you ever buy for your car.
Last edited by Asmodeus6; Nov 8, 2007 at 03:11 PM.
Im thinking of getting the zt-2 wideband. I eventually want to run meth with this crap 91 oct. So to have the trigger output would be an awesome failsafe.
Any other widebands that i should be considering?
BTW. Will retarding timing lean my A/F ratio? still wondering...
Any other widebands that i should be considering?
BTW. Will retarding timing lean my A/F ratio? still wondering...
This is true. A WB and tactrix cable should be the first two things you buy for this car. So much can be done tuning it, and learning to tune it from the word 'Go' as to be so beneficial for you. And agreed those numbers don't always match up with what you see on the WB. You CAN, make them pretty damn close tho.
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