Let's see your fully tuned timing maps
with 28 psi my timing will go into retardation lol...o is 24 psi tapering to 20-21 safe with stock internals? i've come across it once going uphill with no detonation...and thanx again for all the comments. i feel a little more motivated hearing words of confidence from one of the best tuners in socal.
i'd take it to GST, but i'm just too far.
with 28 psi my timing will go into retardation lol...o is 24 psi tapering to 20-21 safe with stock internals? i've come across it once going uphill with no detonation...and thanx again for all the comments. i feel a little more motivated hearing words of confidence from one of the best tuners in socal.
i'd take it to GST, but i'm just too far.

As Bryan said, you are running too rich. Here is what your AFR should look like on 91 octane gas on an Evo 9 with TBE and drop-in mods.
spool up around 13-12 AFR
Peak boost around 11.7-11.5 AFR
mid-range around 11.5-11.3 AFR
Top end around 11.2-10.9 AFR
Running 26-28 psi with the #65 pill should be doen with 100 octane gas. That is what Bryan was saying when he mentioned the higher boost.
You can run 2-3* of timing at peak boost on 91 octane w/o knock and 10-11* by redline. Your timing map looks good for 91 octane. Try to add a degree of timing up top and see if the car knocks. If it does, pull that degree back. That is when you know that you have reached the most timing advance that you can get on 91 octane.
I love guys like you
^^^oops...thanx for the correction. i got confused seeing his post in socal i don't know what i was thinking...now your the one that deserves that title lol. no really naji...you've done some excellent work and its really inspired me to jump into tuning my car myself. reading all of your guys posts could make my eyes bleed, but the rewards are worth it.
so i must be pretty close...i'll add that degree in after i've reached my target boost. playing with 91octane is like playing with fire and i don't wanna get burned this early in the game. thanx for the feedback, and now i'm even more inspired to push forward.
king of the south is naji
king of norcal bryan ok got it rite this time...
so i must be pretty close...i'll add that degree in after i've reached my target boost. playing with 91octane is like playing with fire and i don't wanna get burned this early in the game. thanx for the feedback, and now i'm even more inspired to push forward.
king of the south is naji
king of norcal bryan ok got it rite this time...
I would work on stablizing your AFR then move back into boost and timing. Once you add boost, you will run richer if you tune your fuel map correctly, then go back and tweak the fueling.
I have a fuel base map that gets the fueling 90% almost every time. 90% of the time, it works every time.
I have a fuel base map that gets the fueling 90% almost every time. 90% of the time, it works every time.
^^^oops...thanx for the correction. i got confused seeing his post in socal i don't know what i was thinking...now your the one that deserves that title lol. no really naji...you've done some excellent work and its really inspired me to jump into tuning my car myself. reading all of your guys posts could make my eyes bleed, but the rewards are worth it.
so i must be pretty close...i'll add that degree in after i've reached my target boost. playing with 91octane is like playing with fire and i don't wanna get burned this early in the game. thanx for the feedback, and now i'm even more inspired to push forward.
king of the south is naji
king of norcal bryan ok got it rite this time...
so i must be pretty close...i'll add that degree in after i've reached my target boost. playing with 91octane is like playing with fire and i don't wanna get burned this early in the game. thanx for the feedback, and now i'm even more inspired to push forward.
king of the south is naji
king of norcal bryan ok got it rite this time...

1. Use a conservative timing map and add the aggressive mivec map. Use a conservative WGDC
2. Do 4 back to back logs.
3. Read the data. Set the boost correctly, set the AFR (prelimenary setting only).
4. Do 4 back to back logs
5. Read the data. At this point only minor boost tweaks and AFR tweaks are needed.
6. Do 4 back to back logs
7. Read the data. You should be ver close to your boost and AFR targets.
8. Attempt a 1-2* timing advance in the mid range/top end to see if you can get away with more timing. If your car knocks, then you have reached your max timing advance.
That is about it.
I am only the prince of SoCal. Bryan is the king of all CA
I think he is just letting you know what the max boost it is capable of. Could be he had higher octane.
fwiw, I've seen 26psi on 91 with no knock. It all depends on the build.
And how fast it stays at the boost level and then drops. The first time my MBC F'd up on the street it went straight to 33psi and didnt knock for about 600 rpm. Not something that I ever want to have happen again though.
What abt boost vs timing??
I've been able to go like 5-8 load units up, and for that i had to retard 1* or 2* of timing (depending on the rpm)
another 5 unit of loads will require like 3* of retard...
so how to know at which point increased load with decreased timing makes u loose/not gain power??
I've been able to go like 5-8 load units up, and for that i had to retard 1* or 2* of timing (depending on the rpm)
another 5 unit of loads will require like 3* of retard...
so how to know at which point increased load with decreased timing makes u loose/not gain power??
Actually it did not knock that bad, around 3 counts on pump 93. It is no big secret that I used to run a spike of 28psi on pump. I hit 29 on accident trying to get the ecu settings right for the pill. Also did not help my gauge was only reading 25 (which I was shooting for). Confirmed the 29psi on the dyno's MAP sensor.
I would run 28spike that tapered to 20ish at redline (7k). It would hold pretty nice boost thru the midrange which made for a nice tq curve and badass feel on the street. Car at this boost did 360tq/340hp on Dynomite dyno (reads about 10-15% lower then a dynojet). With just intake filter, exhaust and flash. Car ran 11.85@114 with those mods/settings. I personally think 26psi and a good FMIC and Evo VIII 4th gear would have taken her 11.5 or better. My car would haul *** on the front half, but be heatsoaked and out of gear on the back end. Car was an absolute monster on the street due to the huge tq and nice midrange.
SQ
I would run 28spike that tapered to 20ish at redline (7k). It would hold pretty nice boost thru the midrange which made for a nice tq curve and badass feel on the street. Car at this boost did 360tq/340hp on Dynomite dyno (reads about 10-15% lower then a dynojet). With just intake filter, exhaust and flash. Car ran 11.85@114 with those mods/settings. I personally think 26psi and a good FMIC and Evo VIII 4th gear would have taken her 11.5 or better. My car would haul *** on the front half, but be heatsoaked and out of gear on the back end. Car was an absolute monster on the street due to the huge tq and nice midrange.
SQ
With just intake filter, exhaust and flash. Car ran 11.85@114 with those mods/settings. I personally think 26psi and a good FMIC and Evo VIII 4th gear would have taken her 11.5 or better. My car would haul *** on the front half, but be heatsoaked and out of gear on the back end. Car was an absolute monster on the street due to the huge tq and nice midrange.
I completely agree with all that. I'm waiting till my stock clutch dies before I put in the evo8 third and fourth gear. I'm thinking about a FMIC now but since I run 100 octane 99% of the time I'm not sure it will help much.







