the afr might be going up and down because your load is near the switching point or going back and forth from open to close loop. you may want to adjust your open loop load table a little to keep it in closed loop.

 

Between 80-100 load is usually a common range for closed loop/open loop switching.

 

but you can turn it down till you are in open loop all the time. pretty nice too.

 

I'm not a fan of open loop cruising or idling. Why bypass a computer controlled system when you can just have it work better FOR you? Might as well throw some carbeurators on it at that point.

 

Jamie, your illustrations FTW!

 

Jamie,

why do you have to cut the existing wire? can't you just T into it? surely if the multiplug is not connected at the sensor then that wire is open circuit anyway?

Just concerned about making this less reversible.

 

It MUST be cut. The only 0-1v signal NEEDS to be coming from the WB, not the stock O2 sensor or you'll fry stuff. Or......you can get an ECU pin and just unplug the stock wire and replace it with the ZT2 wire.

 

But, if you unplug the standard wire because you have put your bosch lsu 4.7 in its place, then there is no longer a narrow band signal coming down that wire, so the zeitronix or thelm1 NB simulator will be the only source of 0 or 1V surely?

 

That's the point. To replace stock signal with simulated NB signal that you
can control.

 

Exactly.

You obviously missed the point of the NB O2 SIMULATOR by a mile here.

 

?????

I don't think I have, I just think I have put my question badly.

You said this:



I am saying if you have replaced the NB with the WB, why do you need to cut the standard connection from the NB to the ECU?

Surely the standard NB connector is no longer plugged in to anything, so where is the NB 0 or 1V signal going to come from to interfere with the WB NB sim output?

 

You need the factory front O2 sensor plugged in always or you'll throw a check engine light since the heater circuit will assume the sensor is faulty because it can't complete the circuit (since you would have removed the sensor or unplugged it). You can't just replace the front O2 sensor with the WB, its WAYYY too close to the turbo and it will die a quick death. Most WB's need to be at least 16-18" further down the exhaust from the turbo to be in a safer location from the excessive heat. With that said, there will always be voltage on the NB wire so you need to be sure you aren't sending signal from the WB's narrowband simulator AND from the front O2 sensor into the ECU at the same time.

 

thanks jamie, no longer confused.

two questions.

1. is there a rear 02 sensor that I can switch the WB for or do I need to weld on a boss somwhere?

2. isn't there a patch to switch off the CEL from the NB 02 heater?

 

What is it then for an Evo IX? I used pin # 71 the same way you are showing here.

 

pin 71 should be correct.