You're telling me right? It was a huge WA-BANG with metal sound... fuel cut, because SD cuts fuel if you lose pressure. And then the car went soft and grumbly.

First thoughts... motor.

Turned out I just launched the pipe. So I limped it to an auto zone and spent an hour trying to get some *** clown to find me the right sensor. Finally walked down the road until I got wifi and cross referenced the part # myself.

IF you kill a GM AIT and NEED one from retard zone, or advanced auto crap.
Wells p/n SU107

They will most likely have it. Beats looking through 80 sensors like I was going to if the talking monkey behind the counter couldn't 'find' it or I couldn't get wifi...

Expect some slight temp variance VS your original sensor.

 

I've got an ETS 3.5" FMIC on my car right now with a basically stock air box. UICP air temp is no more than 2 deg F higher than IAT during cruise. A single third gear pull will cause the UICP air temp to increase approx 10 deg F higher than IAT by the end of the pull. When I had the stock FMIC on the car UICP air temp would go 15 deg higher than IAT. Unfortunately, that's not much data. There are a couple comparisons that I would like to see:

1) Cone filter IAT vs UICP air temp. Not sure if people realize it, but cone filters sitting in the engine compartment (typical Evo setup) raise IAT generally by at least 20 F. It would be interesting to see if post IAT temps can be below cone filter IAT under a variety of conditions.

2) IAT vs UICP air temp for an extended track session.

Repeat 1 and 2 but with the air temp sensor mounted in the IM instead of the UICP (or instead of in the UICP because ultimately, air temp in the IM is all that matters.

 

I'm pretty sure I have evidence for this one. I have an open cone filter which I still haven't built a heat shield for. I also have the ETS 3.5" IC and the GM IAT in my UICP.

I'll try to find a log, but I'm pretty sure I show UICP temps below IAT temps at the MAF. Gimme a min to find a log.

Also, after bolting in my ETS 3.5" and LICP, I was able to do just one pull to tune and gain about +25/+20 hp/tq from increased timing/resistance to knock.


Eric

 

Scratch that...the one log I was picturing in my mind had different scalings for the two temps.

I'm finally getting around to tuning my car, though, so if there is something in particular that you want, just let me know and I can supply the data.

 

I would love to see if a heat shield for a cone type / open filter matters....Originally I felt CAI was important, but given the output temperature of the turbine, I am less convinced....Either way I would love to see some data on both open element w/ and w/o heat shields as well as different FMIC results...

 

I already know that a heat shield makes a big difference with an open cone filter. I fabbed one up for my Eclipse years ago. If you don't have a heat shield, at idle the temps just continue to climb due to heatsoak in the engine bay. With a heat shield, the temps hover a few degrees above ambient. It helps all around, with WOT as well.

I just remember a thread where someone posted a pic of there heat shield and the results....I thought it was this thread. Let me see if I can find it.

Edit: Here you go...look at post #6. Also, a picture is on the next page.

 

Great information -- thanks! So I wonder if you could use the stock plastic box as a shield, but use the perrin filter and injen intake ??? I still have the snorkel on the car and don't want to completely box in the filter.

Also, the scales you showed read Fahrenheit -- so if someone is driving in southern Cali or AZ on a hot day (over 100) the ECU is likely pulling 1 - 2 degrees ?

Mr. Fred -- So if the IAT are 20* degrees higher at idle with an open filter (ie. Perrin), what happens once the car is moving (what is the delta then)?

 

You sure can. Many people have threads in this forum doing just that, like jcsbanks and Bryan from GST. Some used the stock box and cut out the side away from the engine and I think Bryan cut out the whole bottom and side.

That's correct, but only if above the load in that corresponding table I posted.

When the car is moving, the temps begin to drop, depening on whether or not you have some ambient air getting to the filter. I currently run an open element filter without a heat shield and the temps will rise during idle, but during cruise, they drop. I have the stock snorkel feeding air to the filter.

 

Although you say load, it looks like TPS (since it is % and has 100s past 3500 rpm)? Either way the tables you posted are concerning....Is the sensor capturing IAT (referenced in the tables) part of the MAF ?

 

It is load...% is just the units for load8 or whatever the scaling is for the table.

Yes, the maf has a baro and temp sensor in the housing.

 

As l2r99gst said, the temps drop once the car gets moving, but it does stay higher than a stock filter setup. I've got several logs from a car that I tuned, and my recollection is that for the most part, IATs on the conefilter setup (with no heat shield) were 20 deg F (or more) higher than ambient almost all the time.

 

Interesting...I am not doubting what you have seen, but would think we would see racers and dyno data that would indicate the same...Now I have one more thing to make ....

 

I'll get some logs tomorrow. I'm still on the stock airbox, so what I'll do is get some logs with and without the cold air duct installed.

 

quick question, my tuner says i dont need an IAT due to the little swing in temperature where i live...

any feedback on this?

 

Manifold air temp is still needed as it will vary depending on engine operating conditions (WOT vs cruise, etc).