Finally had a chance to test the patch in the car today (had already tested in in Trace32). Seems to be working exactly as intended, so I put up the how-to in the second post. It may be a while before I can port this to other ROMs. If you have the ability to port it to your ROM, please do so, and I'll add the code changes for your ROM in this thread.

 

I haven't checked the math yet, but are you sure the temp scalings are correct, only going up to 150*F?


EDIT: Didn't notice you were working in *C. Your math now coincides with mine.



Eric

 

good stuff mrfred, another great mod man

 

Yay! This is amazing man!

Can we get it for 96530006?

 

Well I have been busy blowing stuff up but now that the car is down, I think I am going to run an extra IAT just for logging. I have to mod the Magnus thats going to go on my car anyway for the MAP sensor that runs the MAFT Pro, and the factory 3 Bar, so good time to do it I guess

What differences are you guys seeing between the MAF IAT and the GM IAT? Pretty close (not counting for heat sink) or are you starting to see that maybe your intercooler isnt as "cool" as you might have thought previously?

 

I haven't installed mine yet, but as soon as I do, I will post up some numbers with the stock IC.

I would like to see some numbers if people have them.

 

Anyone get any numbers yet?

 

I'm in the same book as JB. I have maft pro installed already. GM AIT is already in. I contemplated putting the GM AIT in the IM, but the IM gets absolutely flaming hot. So it went just before the TB in the UICP.

Any way to drive that signal back to the ecu by tapping into it?

I'm 96940011 if anyone gets a chance. All the hardware is there.

 

If the sensor is already being driven by MAFT pro, I don't think it can be wired into the fuel temperature sensor input. However, a wiretap on the power side of the sensor can be run into ADC_0F if its not already being used for something. The value of the IAT circuit resistor in the MAFT pro will be needed to convert the sensor voltage to a temperature scale. Also would be good to make sure that the sensor is well grounded, preferably to the engine block.

I'm having an NPT bung installed in the UICP of my car this week, so my sensor will likely be wired up next weekend while I'm replacing my LC-1.

 

For those of using MAFT Pro, I think I have another solution. My MAP sensor is where most would put the IAT, and my MAFT Pro IAT is in the elbow before the throttle body. I am going to put the second IAT roughly in the same place and then wire it in to the MAF plug and log it like normal. Even though the Pro is making temperature correction before it feeds it to the ECU, this way it would be a little faster to react I think.

 

I have room in the IM, as I'm using the JDM map sensor to drive pro. But my concern was the heatsoak of the IM. Does your IM not get boiling hot? When I spoke to FT they saw this as a possible concern so I located it in the UICP right before the TB.

Which stays basically cool to the touch. I may go the route you do JB with a second AIT - but only after I get ahold of another stock IM. I want to spend some time with one porting it - and then get a heat spacer gasket to help keep the IM the same temp as the charge piping.

I still need to deal with the EGR yet too.

 

Do you think a phenolic IM spacer would help with IM heat soak? I have a few agency power spacers left at the shop that I can let go of for cheap. I'll be putting one in when I put my engine back together.

 

I assume you mean this?
http://www.agency-power.com/catalog/...3-p-29706.html

They definately work. Every car I put one on went from flaming hot manifold - to the IM being the same temp as the UICP. The only problem with them (all) is they don't seal. Initially - yes. Over time... no. You have to use a stock gasket on each side. Or rtv or - find your own better adhesion method. And the bolts usually require a retighten over time. Its worth it, but you have to keep an eye on it.

 

Don't do it, I had one and it melted from the EGR gas. Caused all kinds of problems. Yes it worked, but man is it a hassle to remove all that crap again and put the OE gasket back in because the stupid spacer melted. Plus its very easy to unevenly torque the bolts because the soft plastic deforms while tightening.

 

Did anything ever happen with this and the 96940011 ROM?

I would like to do this as I want to take a look at Boost levels vs. Manifold temperatures...