cold start enrichment table
I think gear head has has got it in his evo 8 xmls that he made up for me:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ml#post6431228
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ml#post6431228
So I've read through the thread a couple times and have found the new tables helpful; what I've noticed:
- On my injectors (FIC 1150's), I had a hard time getting them to start on stock Crank Enrich & Post Enrich settings. I wound up increasing the crank enrich & Post Enrich by a good bit in the positive temp region and that has helped tremendously. I'm still having a weak hot start and will continue to tweak to see if that can improve.
Would increasing injector latency at lower voltages help at all w/ cold start?
- On my injectors (FIC 1150's), I had a hard time getting them to start on stock Crank Enrich & Post Enrich settings. I wound up increasing the crank enrich & Post Enrich by a good bit in the positive temp region and that has helped tremendously. I'm still having a weak hot start and will continue to tweak to see if that can improve.
Would increasing injector latency at lower voltages help at all w/ cold start?
I had to play with these values last night to get my car started. Only thing was my car ran rich the entire way home.
According to what everyone is saying these values only affect below 500rpms. Seems to not be the case.
According to what everyone is saying these values only affect below 500rpms. Seems to not be the case.
The only reason I ask is because I noticed you live by me in Chicago and during the coldest days here in the winter my car seems to have touble starting and I'm just on normal pump gas.
With all of these new found cold start fueling and ignition tables, I was thinking about tweaking them some to see if I can get my cold starts a little better.
I am on pump. I actually couldn't start my car at all for the past two days. It had been stuck at work. Late last night after reading this thread I gave it a shot. Had to add 50 pts of enrichment from stock. It finally started up and I drove home. But was running rich the whole way.
I am on pump. I actually couldn't start my car at all for the past two days. It had been stuck at work. Late last night after reading this thread I gave it a shot. Had to add 50 pts of enrichment from stock. It finally started up and I drove home. But was running rich the whole way.
It wasn't a battery issue either, since I am running that same battery now, years later. My car just wouldn't 'catch', so to speak. The starter would just keep turning and turning and the car would just about want to catch, but just never would. I finally held the key for like 30 seconds, while pumping the gas a million different ways and basically rode the starter until it caught and it just barely hung on struggling.
I think it has to do with the settings in some of these new tables. Since it has been cold here lately, I have been trying to monitor things a little closer and I notice the colder it is, the richer my car runs right after being started. The wideband O2 will take 30 seconds or so to warm up and the wideband even at that time is reading like 10.9-11.0. After a minute or so, it slowly works back to a stoich 14.7 and the engine tone sounds cleaner. Before the wideband warms up, I can tell the car is running even richer and 'struggling' a bit. It seems like the colder it is, the richer is runs.
But, based on your explanation, the richer setting helped the car start. Whereas in my situation, it seems like the car is struggling because it is too rich. Since I never had a no start issue since that cold night, I never really looked into it, but with these new findings, I'm curious to try some things out.
Has anyone else noticed tougher times starting during colder weather, with it not being battery related or normal cold temp issues?
Last edited by l2r99gst; Dec 17, 2008 at 12:53 PM.
I also wanted to make sure I didn't have something wrong with my car either, since I did have that starting problem that one cold night. I never had a problem since, even in subzero temps, but I notice it a bit harder to start the colder it gets and running rougher right after startup the colder it gets.
Your injector scaling and latency might be off, when its really cold it will take longer for you car to warm up and go into closed loop where fuel trims take effect.
Log your IPW and you will see it is the case, only adds fuel on cranking. Richness quickly after is residual.
Your injector scaling and latency might be off, when its really cold it will take longer for you car to warm up and go into closed loop where fuel trims take effect.
Your injector scaling and latency might be off, when its really cold it will take longer for you car to warm up and go into closed loop where fuel trims take effect.
I get that the first crank tables are for the first crank and post primer are for right after, now the % decay is that saying that every crank there after will decay the pulse width by that percentage?
Thread Starter
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
don't get me wrong, this is my first time ever using ecuflash and trying to program anything in my car, so it definitely maybe operator error/noobness. I just know i need to play around with it more.
I get that the first crank tables are for the first crank and post primer are for right after, now the % decay is that saying that every crank there after will decay the pulse width by that percentage?
I get that the first crank tables are for the first crank and post primer are for right after, now the % decay is that saying that every crank there after will decay the pulse width by that percentage?
my min coolant temp for closed loop is default at 7 degrees C. That would have been hit easily on my way home. But the car was chilling at 11-12 ish when i got home and idled in my garage. Maybe my wideband needs recalibration.
Thread Starter
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
You're fuel trims will tell you the story. If the car really is running rich in closed loop, then the trims will be full negative (-25% if you are using the correct scaling), and the car should throw a CEL pretty soon.
mrfred,
I just re-read this entire thread, since it has been a while since you originally posted these maps and I found them for my ROM.
Reading through this again, I noticed several people posted decay maps and running maps and I noticed that you stated that you hadn't found the running maps for your ROM yet.
Have you looked at the 8 or so maps that start at 3126? There are about 8 or so at 3126, 3136, 3146, etc.
These same maps for 96940011 appear to start at 2dea.
Based on the threads from mattjin and others, it seems as if the first two are decay maps, then the next two are post running maps?
Eric
I just re-read this entire thread, since it has been a while since you originally posted these maps and I found them for my ROM.
Reading through this again, I noticed several people posted decay maps and running maps and I noticed that you stated that you hadn't found the running maps for your ROM yet.
Have you looked at the 8 or so maps that start at 3126? There are about 8 or so at 3126, 3136, 3146, etc.
These same maps for 96940011 appear to start at 2dea.
Based on the threads from mattjin and others, it seems as if the first two are decay maps, then the next two are post running maps?
Eric
Are you on pump gas or E-85?
The only reason I ask is because I noticed you live by me in Chicago and during the coldest days here in the winter my car seems to have touble starting and I'm just on normal pump gas.
With all of these new found cold start fueling and ignition tables, I was thinking about tweaking them some to see if I can get my cold starts a little better.
The only reason I ask is because I noticed you live by me in Chicago and during the coldest days here in the winter my car seems to have touble starting and I'm just on normal pump gas.
With all of these new found cold start fueling and ignition tables, I was thinking about tweaking them some to see if I can get my cold starts a little better.






