I appreciate the advice guys, I ran it up the flag pole with Buschur and am waiting to see what David suggests I do for studs/torque etc.. since I'll be running his shorty/heads.

 

If the studs have yielded, they definitely should not be re-used. But, studs like ARP's shouldn't yield, unless installed incorrectly. The torque rating given by ARP is at 75% of the material's yield strength. So, if you have ARPs that have yielded, then they were either way overtorqued or there was a defect in the stud.

 

So are the A1's direct bolt in's or is there machining involved?

 

I think one reason for the 1x1 fails is because some people might get confused because the ARP head studs come with a generic spec sheet for a different size stud with different torque specs (I forget what the sheet says). The 190.000psi rated 11mm studs are supposed to be torque'd to 71ft.lbs. with the ARP Moly lube and 90ft.lbs with 30 weight motor oil (not recommended). Also, its pretty darn difficult to completely clean out the tapped holes completely in the block with the head still attached. If there is ANY debris in the holes and you try to tighten them, the debris causes premature resistance which can cause you to THINK you are torquing them to the correct amount but in reality they are loose. Not to mention the amount of torque wrenches out there that need re-calibration.

Best bet is cover the valvetrain with shop rags or a plastic garbage bag and then buy or make a reallly long tip for your air gun (long enough to go through the head and bottom out in the tapped hole inside the block) and blow out all of the debris. Then spray brake cleaner into the hole and then blow out the hole once more. Apply ARP Moly Lube to the head stud and HAND tighten. Its even more wise to make a tap that can reach the bottom of the hole and chase the threads before installation.

I personally pulled my head off since its not worth any additional risk since you ARE compromising the integrity of the seal no matter what you wanna say about it. I just think people don't follow all of the necessary steps to assure success when doing the 1x1 method.

 

I'm not saying, I'm just saying.........

 

I just put mine in 1x1 not too long ago. Make sure you clean out the holes and thread them ALL THE WAY DOWN. For this I use a simple screw driver with an allen head attatchment. Clean the holes. Twist in the stud, back it off... twist it down... back it off... twist it the whole way down. If you listen closely - you can hear shsssshsshht - that means there's still oil in the threads. Take it back out and clean it again. Then wind it back down until it goes down silent without a fight.

This is not my preferred method of doing these. But I don't have time for down time with this car. I was starting to get a whiff of coolant after a few hard pulls. I am no longer. Haven't had any problems since. Not my recommendation. But it can be done in a pinch. Stock head bolts came out ok looking. Torque seemed sufficient @ the time of removal... but was not uniform any longer. Which means they were starting to stretch.

 

Why would you run less boost at the track

 

when I say track I don't mean drag strip - I mean circuit racing.

Two reasons I run less boost:
1) repetitive laps = more heat = more knock
2) higher boost = more power, which in the 6spd is a bad thing... We figure the 6spd can only handle about 240kw atw before 4th becomes a problem...

 

Ok. It makes more sense now. Sorry if I came out like a dork.

 

no dramas - just different terminology

 

thats how we role...