FIC 1050s installed today - observations and a question
#31
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (8)
I've seemed to have worse luck with the rochester units. We've sent two sets to be checked/flowed after having some issues with them, a PTE and a FIC set. The FIC set had a leaking injector and flowed off from the other 3, the PTE set had 1 injector that flowed 20% less than the other three. Both sets where 100% new.
I've also had PTE's that work just fine so it is probably just bad luck.
The nice thing about the RC's is they come with a flow sheet and are hand picked to flow close to each other. I've heard of people having issues with the RC's too though.
#32
Account Disabled
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The FIC's and PTE's are a matched set as well. I'm sorry I just don't have those experiences. Between me, my friend with a talon, and my friends with evo's I've helped set up about 5 cars on FIC's and 2 on PTE's. Add in two turbo hondas as well (FIC units). On all the cars (and especially mine because I get more time to tweak them) the idle is better than stock. The latency curve will be MUCH different than stock. I suggest building an excel worksheet and graph the numbers. That way you can get a visual on what is going on.
#33
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (8)
dan,
I'm not arguing with you. I understand that they work for others.
btw, I'm still working on the car. This is the first experience I have had with the FIC 1050's so I expected it to take some more time than usual.
I'm not anti-rochester, I just have so far had better luck with other injector types.
I'm not arguing with you. I understand that they work for others.
btw, I'm still working on the car. This is the first experience I have had with the FIC 1050's so I expected it to take some more time than usual.
I'm not anti-rochester, I just have so far had better luck with other injector types.
#34
What are the latencies you are currently running? I found with my FIC 1000's that the 14 and 11 volt values need to have the correct ratio between them otherwise the car runs like crap and trims are messed up.
#35
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
I told the owner to get rid of them and get a set of RC or Denso injectors.
Ho bought the MSD used and had them cleaned. One of the injectors was clogged after 4 months of use.
Denso's and RC's are the only injectors that I recommend.
#36
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Just in case anyone missed it, I started a thread asking for a potential patch for this type of stalling. In my experience it is 100% from the intake and messed up MAF readings, not the injectors.
Obviously, there can be a number of causes, but the messed up MAF readings are the main cause from my experience.
Obviously, there can be a number of causes, but the messed up MAF readings are the main cause from my experience.
#38
Account Disabled
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My car is completely different than how most people set theirs up. I would mess you up more by giving you my #'s than telling you to build a voltage vs latency sheet in excel. Plug in the stock values first. Look at the curve and understand why its a curve and not a straight line. Learn what battery voltage your car cranks and and understand that this is the latency lookup when starting. Look at what your battery voltage is when cruising and/or the AC on. When you get the car to start like stock, idle better than stock, and drive better than stock you are ready to do the final test. Pull the alternator power cable and idle the car watching the STFT. It shouldn't go wildly lean or rich as the battery voltage drops off.
#39
It seems that I have at least one leaky injector. I disconnected the power from all the injectors, and when I try starting the motor, it lights off for a split sec and then still almost wants to start. Happens each time I crank the motor. Time to get another set of injectors. Going to try FIC again.
#40
My car is completely different than how most people set theirs up. I would mess you up more by giving you my #'s than telling you to build a voltage vs latency sheet in excel. Plug in the stock values first. Look at the curve and understand why its a curve and not a straight line. Learn what battery voltage your car cranks and and understand that this is the latency lookup when starting. Look at what your battery voltage is when cruising and/or the AC on. When you get the car to start like stock, idle better than stock, and drive better than stock you are ready to do the final test. Pull the alternator power cable and idle the car watching the STFT. It shouldn't go wildly lean or rich as the battery voltage drops off.
#41
Account Disabled
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mrfred, by the sounds of it you need to work on your latencies just a bit more. The injectors are probably fine. Also I have an old battery that I use each time to run the car dead as its not healthy to deep cycle any lead acid battery (even if it is labeled as "deep cycle" or "marine"). Just trust me
#42
mrfred, by the sounds of it you need to work on your latencies just a bit more. The injectors are probably fine. Also I have an old battery that I use each time to run the car dead as its not healthy to deep cycle any lead acid battery (even if it is labeled as "deep cycle" or "marine"). Just trust me
#43
Account Disabled
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I missed the part about you disconnecting power to the injectors. Sorry.
EDIT:
Also look into whether an Evo kills spark or fuel to kill the motor. It might just be killing spark and still spraying fuel thus leaving a little for a sputter later on. I'm also unsure if the injectors seeping a little fuel when you kill the motor is abnormal or not. With the check valve in the fuel pump and the injectors shut off as well as the FPR holding 43psi the pressure in the fuel rail does drop to 0 over about an hour or two. That pressure is going somewhere (even on stock injector cars).
EDIT:
Also look into whether an Evo kills spark or fuel to kill the motor. It might just be killing spark and still spraying fuel thus leaving a little for a sputter later on. I'm also unsure if the injectors seeping a little fuel when you kill the motor is abnormal or not. With the check valve in the fuel pump and the injectors shut off as well as the FPR holding 43psi the pressure in the fuel rail does drop to 0 over about an hour or two. That pressure is going somewhere (even on stock injector cars).
Last edited by dan l; Jun 14, 2008 at 08:12 PM.
#44
Account Disabled
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, your battery may sit at 10-11 volts during summer cranking. When I try to crank my car in the winter on a motorcycle battery its much lower than that. Sometimes its half that unfortunately. Just keep that in mind so that your car starts fine this winter.
#45
When you turn off the motor isn't some fuel left unburned? Someone could test this with stock injectors I imagine and may or may not have the same results as you Mr. Fred.
anyway maybe I am way off base her but figured I would throw it out anyway.
Good luck