Here are my adjustment to my timming and fuel map and logs. This is the first time I start chanching fuel and timming maps, what do you guys thingk? I am logging with evoscan 2.5 and I am using no WB. Can I be more agressive? Currently I am holding 20psi to redline and I see spikes to 23psi, ofcourse this is by looking at my boost gauge, can't log boost at this moment. My current mods are TBE no cat, JDM DV valve, no boost controller. I did change a few things with ecuflash to be able to hold 20psi to redline. Both logs were done in 3rd gear.

 

since your not logging afr looking at your fuel map is nearly a waste of time.

you may have a lot of room in your timing map but you will never know unless you log afr.

maybe we can get colby to place a big "don't touch your maps unless you have a wideband" on the opening page of ecuflash

 

so your wideband is reading 0?

well that's mighty rich... I reckon you can lean out your fuelmap by about 11 points.

Disclaimer: The above advice is bull****, based on the fact your wideband is accurate - which it obviously isn't - please dont modify your fuelmap WITHOUT a wideband

 

I will give you 1 bit of useful advice.

See how your timing map, for loads 20 and 30 are the same?

Delete the 20 column, and move the 30->260 part of the map over 20 (copy/paste)

Then Add a 280 column at the end...

 

Thanks for your advice, I will do that.

 

I am using the stock NB, I seen other people use this as well. I will be adding a KN drop in filter soon, so I will log some more.

 

only experts should be using the NB as any sort of fuel table check, and even then its not accurate at all

do yourself a favor and get a Zentronix ZT2...

 

So your sugestion is to go back to my stock fuel map until I get a WB? Or I am ok with the current map and get a WB and then tune?

 

i would

technically you will find you can lean out 4000rpm+, but please dont do it without a wideband...

 

Well I will follow your advice, I will go back to my stock fuel map and continue to log to learn more about the car. How about the timing map, should I go back to the stock map also or can I adjust until I see knock?

 

Looking for a wideband!
So how accurate is the stock NB compare to a WB.

 

pupo,

you can not replace one with the other, yet.

a wideband must be placed somewhere in the downpipe, you have a NB right by the turbo and another after the cat. The NBs are for idle and cruise they are designed to operate your car at 14.7. They will indicate a rich or a lean condition. But do not have the ability to tell you how much or what the afr is.
A WB will tell you what the afr is.

There really is a lot of information about this sort of issue within the ecuflash forum.
Finding it isn't the easiest thing, but there are a lot of good pointers you can find while searching.

 

I used a wideband before for tunning with my old turbo car, me and a friend tune the car that I had with it, but he sold it. I am just asking if compared to the WB, how inaccurate it is because I seen people tune with a NB here in this forum but ofcurse they have a lot of experience. My TBE has a bung for a WB already welded so there is where I would be placing it when I get one. I will leave my maps alone until I get a WB to be on the save side.
This thread is the one that I am talking about https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=246434

I had a custom turbo kit installed on a 2002 Corolla that I put together, It was running 9psi of boost and the car was automatic, I had a Split second AIC running a 5th injector and tunning was not easy since the computer keep adjusting the fuel ratios, I had it installed for about 3 years and decided that it was time go get serius and buy a real car.

 

NB O2 is just a stoich switch that cuts on and off when higher or lower than 0.45volts. It is only accurate at 14.5 to 14.9 afr where the cat can operate. Someone who can use NB O2 to tune open loop is the same as shooting a 500 meter target with a blindfold standing backwards with loud hiphop music blaring in his headphones.

NB and WB are two different measurments

 

I see your map could benefit from a lot of smoothing.

There is an area, load 70-120 and rpm 1250 - 2000 that could use a little work.
I say this are specifically because that is an area of pulling away from a light, and starting to get on it. With some of the values you might see jumps in timing of 5* or so. Smoothing that out might make the car feel better pulling away from a light.

There is also areas in the high rpm/high load areas that could use a touch of smoothing. Smoothing out your timing maps make the car feel much better, smoother, and just overall better running because your getting less timing swings.